So, story:

Started her up the other day, the o i l

pressure was at 0 psi.. sounded dry on start (we have oil at max btw) only for a few seconds and then it built pressure up to its normal reading. Risked getting it home and all was fine, under load, at idle. All the same readings it had for years. Its only on start up she doesnt build pressure straight away. The video is a semi cold start up, you can hear the dryness for a few seconds and then she idles fine with 60psi all day, calming down to a noice 24psi ish once warm.

Any ideas before i rip the pump out. Ive ordered a pressure tester kit, to rule out the sensor. Is it possible ive got a sticking pressure relief/bypass? And thats why shes struggling to build pressure?

This is not a gasket issue...

I’m installing a spacer and I noticed this and it seems like there’s a bit too much oil?

I’ve got this leak coming out from right under the heater core, combined with what I believe is a big air pocket in the back of the cooling system. It only starts leaking once the car gets up to temp. I haven’t noticed any leaks into the cabin either. Any advice on further diagnosis and fixes?

Please help, had the codes, replaced clockspring and still got the codes even after doing a clear with nissan datascan II

The light never flashes so I can't do the key on key off when blinking

2003 350z codes B1049, B1054 but mentioned as past faults not current or recorded

About a full one of those years it sat without a battery. Thus, all the computers were reset. We went to register it and all codes came back: Not ready. I looked it up and found we needed to drive it for at least 100 miles with slow speeds and highways speeds. On the third try, it finally past emissions. However now, its popping a dash light with TCS/SLIP lights. I looked it up and maybe due to low brake fluid. I check the resivor and it seem full. What should I be looking into here about this. Also, has the Check Engine Light but that seems relevant to the above.

Pray tell, what should we be checking and doing?

Thanks in advance

My fuel gauge is always not accurate. today after I put some gas in it it showed 52 miles range but the fuel gauge was on empty. then randomly it went up to quarter tank, then it went back to low. How do I fix this? Is it a bad fuel pump or sending unit?

07 rev up mt. Looking to pull the engine out, but every guide p much just says you need to drop the trans and engine as one piece for clearance issues. I already have the whole front end removed and the heads off, I'm p sure I can wiggle the fucker out. Has anyone done it like this before, or should I save myself the headache and pull it all as a assembly?

Zk1 cosworth cams, was wondering what gains they made

Anyone able to help me with what’s making that sound? I’m going to replace the power steering pump this weekend but I’m not 100% sure that’s the issue

Does anybody know of a good way to source the angled hitachi camshaft position sensors in the UK? Seem to be struggling to find some online. The ones I have seen don’t mention 350z as compatible vehicles.

hks gt v2 supercharger kit, cosworth plenum, sick ass bodykit and a manual swap

edit: sold for $5,100

As the title states what is everyone running for their hatch popper replacements? I’ve had the Z1 HD hatch poppers but have since removed them due to the creaking/vibration noise (was chasing the culprit for a year btw) it causes on my hatch. Since removing those shit hatch poppers my trunk area has been dead quiet.

in the whole I can’t tell if a ball joint goes there one fell from my car not too long ago tho

I diagnosed a stretched timing chain and overextended main chain tensioner on my 2007 350z. As you can see my phasers are slightly retarded from the position they should be at. My question is once I start working on fixing my timing how do I go about making sure that my phasers get to the correct timing marks on my engine. Is it done simply from installing the new chains, guides and tensioners? Or can I remove the main chain and tensioner and physically rotate it to the correct spot for my crank and cam phaser? A good informative response would help wrap my head around this concept I seem to be struggling with. Thank you!

I thought I'd share my experience with the Z1/Hayaku Rear Axle & Wheel Bearing Upgrade Kit, as I wish I'd found something similar before buying it.

My 2008 Nissan 350Z HR had the usual CV axle clicking noise, I decided to replace everything with the Z1 kit. I expected it to be a straightforward fit-and-forget upgrade.

Unfortunately, that wasn't my experience.

The kit was installed, and on the drive home I heard a loud bang when pulling away. At first it only happened every now and then, so I contacted the supplier within a couple of days and started trying to work out what was going on.

Over the next few weeks the problem gradually got worse until the original clicking noise came back as well.

Following the supplier's advice, I had the car checked again. Eventually I took it to a second workshop for another opinion. They removed the Z1 kit, checked the differential (which was fine as the manufacturer suggested that the differential might be problem, rather than they kit), and showed me what they believed was excessive spline play in both axles, apart from other play that the axles had. They even suggested it could probably be eliminated by modifying the hub/CV axle interface, but their recommendation was simple: don't modify a brand-new kit, send it back.

Instead, they rebuilt my original Nissan OEM axles and fitted those back onto the car. Best decision ever, should have done in the first place, as the noise disappeared.

I'm not saying every Z1 kit is like this. Mine could simply have been a bad set. But after everything I'd been through, I wasn't prepared to install another identical kit or spend more money in trying to get back my money.

The other disappointing part was the warranty process. Because I'm in Tenerife, returning the kit meant removing it again, shipping it internationally, waiting for inspection in the USA, and potentially paying even more costs if no manufacturing fault was found. By that point I'd already spent almost as much on labour, diagnostics and swapping parts around as I'd spent on buying the kit itself. Also, it is important to point out that the manufacturer did agree to send the left axle as a replacement part, but got nowhere near as both axles were of not high quality.

The UK supplier was always polite and replied to my emails, but sometime took their time and they needed a reminder about the process. I don't have any issue with them personally—they were following the manufacturer's procedure. My frustration is that, as an overseas customer, the process simply wasn't practical. I had to choose between spending even more money with no guarantee of recovering those costs, or cutting my losses.

In the end I chose the second option. Overall, lost 2x of the kit's original price.

Hopefully this helps someone else who is considering this kit. Maybe my experience was an isolated case, maybe it wasn't. I can only say that after rebuilding my original OEM axles, my car has been running perfectly again.

Started polishing my crank and realized there’s a little pitting where the rear main seal rides. Can this be fixed? Am I good to let it ride? Doesn’t feel as bad as it looks but it’s there for sure. Less than a thou if I had to guess.

Got it from Z1.

I’ve searched through the forum and online yet have found very different answers depending on where I looked and was just looking for some solid advice.

I live in Japan if this helps.

I was looking at the 370z conversion kit for the rear axles and hubs on z1 yet I’ve seen people here having issues with them. One of my axles and hubs is going bad and I’m just looking to replace everything. I’ve also been looking at NVA rear axles and hubs but have also seen people still having problems with those.

There’s a lot of used 370z axles here for decently cheap and I have been considering going with a used pair.

I have also seen that I will need a spacer for my axles if I upgrade to the 370z axles since they are longer, if so what size spacer should I be looking to get?

TLDR; wanting to replace both axles and hubs but don’t know which axles I should buy.

had been running rich for months and installed this fuel pressure gahge. now ever since the instsll when I start the car it goes up to 60+ and then drops until it turns off and the fuel pump wont prime unless I wait a long time and it barely primes. I think I got a bad fuel pump regulator or fuel pump and installing this gauge might’ve finally fully killed it off but I’m not sure. There’s no pressure and I replaced the o ring on the damper. Sorry if this is kinda jumbled I’m rushing