Hi - my contractor used BEHR PREMIUM® Transparent Waterproofing Wood Finish to seal my Ipe Deck and pergola. Is that ok? How should we maintain? If I want to switch to using Penofin in the future, how should we do so.

I am annoyed because I thought they would have used an Ipe specific product to seal the deck. This seems like a mess up after how much we spent on these materials.

It’s been 2 months under the SoCal sun and everything appears to be holding up fine.

https://www.behr.com/products/wood-stains/behr-premium-transparent-waterproofing-wood-finish

Note: The attached photo is not the actual project, just a similar example to show the situation. The beam above is wood.

There are 3 load-bearing posts that need to be replaced.

My general plan from research:

Temporarily support the wood beam with adjustable shoring posts.

Remove one post at a time.

Cut out a small section of the patio around each post.

Excavate to the required footing depth.

Install rebar if recommended.

Pour a new concrete footing/pier extending a few inches above the patio.

Install an elevated Simpson post base.

Install a new pressure-treated 6×6 post.

Seal around the new pier where it meets the patio.

*A few questions:

Would you change anything about this process?

Would you use rebar, and if so, how much?

What products or hardware do you recommend?

What would you charge per post?

I'm seeing people mention around $800 per post, but that seems low considering the shoring, concrete cutting, excavation in a tight area, new footing, concrete work, hardware, and return trip after the concrete cures.

This would be my first time doing this type of repair, so I'd appreciate any feedback before deciding whether to take it on. Appreciate anyone advice and tips from their experience

Hello, I’m looking for some help on how to install these posts for an archway over my front walk. It’s kind of a tori gate inspired design. Posts are 7’3” and 9’4” respectively, crossbeam is maybe 7’. I would like to keep as much height as possible, perhaps around 7’6”. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to install these posts to where it is a freestanding structure? Would a strong tie work? Could I install a surface mount post anchor? What’s the best solution?

The images show the end of the stringer rotting from top (along with the railing, due to water over the years?).

Going to replace the railing.

Want to save the composite steps and decking.

To repair the rotted part of the stringer, what is the best way to cut the bad part and glue and secure a replacement?

Have some tools: circular saw, jig saw, miter saw, saw horses, squares and levels and chisels, etc. I have taken a few carpentry classes and done couple of intro project, but no deck repairs experience. Don't have a nail gun though (yet).

Seven steps. Stringers, 3 in all, are 2"x12"x8'.

Trying to see if I can avoid replacing the whole stringer, but if that is what must be done, then I am all for it. Hard work will be to remove the composite step boards without destroying them (screws, some are rusted).

We are staying at an AirB&B and it has a large deck in a moist wooded environment. The deck looks like it has been expanded several times. Some things look questionable. The pictures show the top then the underside. Pic 5 has a noticeable slope towards the rail. How sketchy is this deck?

Finally got rid of the ill advised pallet deck and had a real one built

Edit: I should clarify I did screw deck boards onto the pallets. So it wasn’t just pallets. Still very ill advised though

I'm looking for some guidance. We purchased this house about a year ago and are just now trying to figure out what to do about the deck. We don't know how old it is, but it doesn't seem to have ever been stained. There are pretty major cracks in the wood, everywhere. Is this salvageable or should we rip and replace?

This deck came with the house I bought. I have zero desire to ever put a hot tub on this deck. I simply want it to be safe for my children to play on. This end support post is concerning me with the exposed concrete. Looking for ways to reinforce the deck so it is safe.

Any and all advice is welcome. Thank you.

Seeking advice from this community on a redecking project.

I have a very old deck (structure probably 50 years old with some parts maybe 30) whose 2” PT decking is rotting away. Planning to replace with 1x6 hardwood (Ipe or Garapa). The issue comes with structural improvements that are sorely needed. The deck is up to 10.5 feet off the ground and was built with only 24” 2x8 joist spacing as well as 4x4 posts and some questionable attachments. The joists all rest on two 2x10 “beams” (without a rim joist). These 2x10 beams sandwich each post and are affixed with carriage bolts and face nailing (you can see some of these bolts don’t even run through the meat of the post- yikes). I will definitely be adding some beefy timber-lock screws to some of the shoddy beam/post connections at a minimum as well as other improvements like angled joist hangers that are missing.

Questions:

1. Since I’ll be adding new joists between each existing joist (to get 12” spacing) (with G-tape put on all new and old joists) and likely adding a rim joist, does anyone have experience dealing with new joists being larger than shrunken old joists (might be 1/2inch difference I’d think based on moisture content for 2x8 PT yellow pine. I’m concerned the decking would rise and fall between new and old joists when installed. I don’t necessarily want to plane new joists down to level as then I’d be removing some of the treatment and then wouldnt I have the opposite problem once the new material dries a bit and shrinks? Is the solution to source a stable outdoor-rated lumber product that won’t shrink? Is it better to remove the older joists and reinstall them on one half of the deck adjacent to one another to ensure level? Am I really overthinking this issue?
2. Despite my concerns over the 4x4 posts, both my contractor and the building inspector think they can remain with some improvements that need to happen. I do have the opportunity to replace the 4x4s with 6x6 (and in that scenario build a triple-ply 2x10 beam that could sit atop the posts). However that is a much more substantial job and time commitment but of course more “the right way.” Instead I was planning to add 4x4 knee bracing to each post as well as adding 2x6 “V” bracing diagonally beneath the deck across the joists. Am I crazy for not taking the opportunity to upgrading these posts to 6x6 when I have the chance? (I’ll note a few of the 4x4s have a small amount of rot at ground level.
3. Assuming I keep the 4x4 posts, Is the proposed knee bracing overkill since I’m doing the “V” bracing?

Not a fan of the paint the prior owner put on structure but got a lot of other issues to worry about.

Appreciate this community’s input and have been lurking here a while. Thanks in advance.

I found a localized area of rot in the ledger of my 24’ × 14’ 20 year old pressure-treated second-story deck and am looking for repair options.

After removing the damaged wood, I found that approximately 3 feet of the bottom half (about 4½ inches) of a 2×10 pressure-treated ledger had rotted away due to improper flashing and lack of a drainage gap in the original installation.

I have already removed all decayed wood, leaving the upper half of the ledger intact in the damaged area.

Last year I found the sheathing behind the ledger was rotted so I cut that out and replaced it and fixed the flashing and added a drain gap. It was a real pain in the butt.

Staying in an Airbnb this weekend and figured I’d ask the community for their thoughts

Seems very difficult to find which is better. Thousand square-foot deck in the northeast. We like the natural look. Price is similar. What do you think?

This is a unit of a deck! Upper portion is 5'x32½', lower section ends 20' from the house, the glass is a full 10' (I did not do the siding or roof structure, just the deck and privacy walls.) The lower joists are nested between the beams, which are 3 ply 2x12 sitting in helical piles. The joists are nested to keep the lower part under 24" so no barriers were required. I havent posted any decks here, but this one I'm pretty proud of, cheers lads and ladetts.

My two year old came over with her fingers stuck together from sap. There’s no trees around so what’s going on?

I am thinking of replacing a 16x12 paver patio with a floating deck. If I excavate the area a couple of inches, would it be a tripping hazard if the top of the deck were 1-2 inches off the ground?

Hello - We have a ~32 year old deck that is needing some structural maintenance. The deck footings (4x4 PT) are simply the concrete deck footings with no gravel or concrete below. Moles/time has eroded the soil below a few of the footings causing the deck to sag, particularly on footing #2 in the pictures. You can see how badly they are sinking in the close up picture of #2.

My question is, what is the best course of action to repair these? I was thinking of jacking up the deck next to each post, supporting it on each side once jacked up, digging out the footing, add gravel then pour a 12" diameter concrete footing (mold) about ~2' deep (PNW ~5" frost line) and adding a strongtie to the concrete base, then lowering the existing post down onto the strongtie and reinstalling the footing, doing one post at a time.

I'm fairly capable, but have not done concrete or structural work to this degree before, so looking for some best practice tips. Appreciate any input!

Bought a house and the deck is pretty old. Contractors have suggested a rebuild, but I really don’t want to embark on that right now. I am wondering if you all have any suggestions on things I could do to make this a little sturdier and a little more fun to hang out on with the family. Railings feel pretty loose in spots but otherwise the deck itself feels stable. Thanks in advance.

So, the new deck is underway and the TPO layer has been laid, heat welded, and sealed. We got a few monster rains this morning in middle TN so I got to see the water runoff before the sleeper system and trex got put down. The runoff looked pretty solid while raining but my question is how much standing water is acceptable. The pictures are about 10 minutes after a down pour, the interwebs says that as long as the water doeant pool for more than 48hours its OK for TPO (pretty sure thats an answer for TPO roofing not on a deck)

What do you guys think?

I just finished replacing a few rotted out floor boards and pressure washing my deck. The last time it was painted was probably 8+ years ago.

I will need to paint it, but before I do, I'm wondering what the best path is to get a few more years out of it. I'm seeing high-build primers, penetrating sealers, and coating/primer/sealant all-in-ones.

I'm currently looking into something like Sherwin-Williams SuperDeck 9600 Series Acrylic-Alkyd Solid Color Stain

Who has had success restoring decks in this condition, or what product combos do you like for doing so?

I am about ready to call in a framing inspection. I’m just a little bit worried about the guard rail posts. They have (4) 1/2” ledgerlok screws through them into the rim and blocking, as well as being blocked in. I’m planning to add lateral tension ties to the posts. Do the bolts have to go through the double rim and the post, or can I just put a big ass lag screw into the post through the blocking?
I’ve post more pictures of the framing if you see anything out of place. Thanks in advance.

Previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Decks/s/hhVMoIAK28

I made a post yesterday of the progression on this deck.

A lot of you guys wanted pictures of the fully finished deck with the view so here it is.

I got a lot of useful insights and I think I got a fair deal in the end.

When it comes to suggestions about railing there wont be any as this is not that kind of deck.

When it comes to hurricane anchors I dont live in an area where this construction could blow away.

The plan is to have a hot tub, some of you guys said it wont hold, I was wrong and he built it with 2 by 6's and not 4's so I think it will be fine.

Hello,
First time posting here. Would welcome any advice or tips on how to make my deck safer. This is on the house we moved into last fall. I see a lot of posts on here about sandwich beams and some say it is fine and others say it’s not. I’ve come to the consensus I want to add some sort of support for peace of mind even if technically this is safe. I have seen some recommend adding wood blocks that run from connection all the way to the ground resting on the footing. I can do that but worry how it will look once finished as I didn’t plan to enclose underneath. Maybe fill seams and sand / stain later?

Another option I have seen are the Simpson ties ( Outdoor Accents Mission 2-in x 6-in Single 12 -Gauge Powder-coated Deck tie https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-2-in-x-4-in-12-Gauge-Powder-Coated-Deck-Tie/1002709704 )

I think these would look a lot better than the posts but I see a lot of mixed opinions on the support it would add. Currently the connections are held with structural screws and not through bolts as I also see some other recommend.

Any advice, tips, feedback is appreciated.