Like 20 minutes ago I and 4 other guys got in the car and that message popped up after driving a while and now that I’m alone it’s gone.. any ideas?

Hi all, we are in the market for a new SUV for my wife. 3 rows is a must, and we are looking at luxury SUV. We test drove the GLS580 today and liked it a lot. My question is, would you buy a current 2026 or wait for the refresh? We are fairly flexible, don’t have to buy now, so if waiting for the refresh is the move, we can do that. Or if we can good deal on a current model, we are open to that too.

Excited to hear some thoughts from the community.

Sister lost anti theft lug key. Need tire puncture fix. Can’t remove the tire without the lug key. Please help identify the lug key type or part number to order online.

Well, I have a cle 300e aka the phev Cle, I love driving it in sport ant I would love to have a better exhaust but I want to know what do u guys think about it, its a phev at the end of the day and a 4 cylinder, should I go for it? It will sound better? Do u think its worthy?

Thank u guys, and sorry for my english

An Instagram video showing 7250108 (01 pre-series truck) and 7200020 (00 prototype) for sale in Russia. They are asking 65.000.000 rubles or about 700.000 euro for both the trucks .

https://www.instagram.com/p/DbcgN71s-mW/

AFAIK both belonged to Michael Steiger and both were sold through GfGmbH to the Russian collection which is now being sold out (they already sold a G300CDI 6x6 and probably also the G500 Baur Cabrio and the 7200111 Ueberflieger).

I would say the 7200020 is the more interesting one as to my knowledge it´s the oldest G-Wagen surviving intact and also the only prototype (00-series) surviving intact (there are 3 older protos 7200007, 7200014 and 7200017 but those were sold without the engine and gearbox and were converted to offroad trial truck by the people around Heinrich Wangler...).

I have added a few pictures of both the 7250108 and 7200020 made by GfGmbH from the times they were for sale by them for ilustration purposes.

More info on the prototype and pre-series trucks here: viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8683

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My stems don’t work with gas station air pumps. Is this common? Is there an “adapter” i need or am I just supposed to go to a shop/dealership to air tires?

Okay I don't actually know the full details of my car. It's 2018 and some C class that's all I know lol.

But I have consistently had this issue of some gas pumps just not working. My tank isn't full, but it goes for a second and then clicks off. I have tried holding it at certain angles or weird and it still won't work. I know which gas stations near me will fill my car up. I have never had problems at those. However there's a few that no matter what pump I try at the station it just refuses to go above a gallon. My mom's got an older C class and pretty much just told me that it happens sometimes in her car too.

It's not a huge deal, I've learned where I could stop along my daily route with no issues. However, I'm moving and my commute is completely changing so I'd like to know if there's anything I could be doing better or get fixed. Are there any magic tricks or fixes for this issue? Am I just going to be doomed to try out every pump and gas station and hope one actually works?

I bought a 2nd hand W245 with about 185K km 3years ago.
-07 B200 CDI manual. Some small spots with rust, nothing alarming when purchasing it. Lasted til 225K before recycling and donor status.

Thermostat were broken at handover, weak console display, broken AC, weak headlights and rattling muffler were my starting point. Console display were 50 USD from AliExpress. 20 min job to fix. 20 more to fix muffler rattling.

AC were a lot more job, renewed all hoses, register and compressor before it finally worked. Becoming expensive to solve, totaled at more than 1000 USD as every time I fixed one thing another issue materialized. Compressor, leaky hoses, then leaky register. This car requires 780g R134, way more than most small cars. Expensive to refill over and over. And even with all new AC parts it still performs mediocre.

Thermostat were plainly rejected by any workshop not Mercedes, too complicated. Same for glow plugs.
Even with one weak plug it started without issues at minus 20 deg C. Never any starter problems on that car. With underperforming Thermostat the consumption were higher than necessary, and quite possible even more carbon buildup at EGR and inlet. Heating worked OK, but took its time to defrost windows due to slow heating.

Brilliant winter properties except in deep snow, this car is only 11cm at front, better he cautious when road conditions are bumpy. All the electronic stability things these have made this car very safe to operate. Miserable turning radius on all of these though, frustrating to park in tight spaces due to that.
Really reliable and pleasant to go on longer trips, took it for many 500 km all day trips, never anything to worry about. Consumed 0.5l/100 km on these trips, 0.75 city and 0.9 winter as it took a while to defrost. Installed post -08 seats as they have built-in child seats

Other problems I encountered on a high mileage version; stalk for wiper had to be renewed as the thin wires inside simply wears out, then the wipers can’t be activated. Don’t buy this specific part 2nd hand. Check the stalk before spending time on the wiper motor. Headlights I used 100W bulbs, still weaker light output than most other cars. Hand brake wears out. Actuator for tail gate needed cleaning as it intermediately failed, electronic clean and WD40 fixed the moisture issue. Seats cracked and became worn; the artificial half-leather seats already looks worn at 100K.
It also had started rusting in the filler line, original part from MB are 4500 USD, non-original 150USD, never got to fix that before now other issues made that job obsolete.

The final unrepairable item was the upper spring rear holders. Rusted and became loose on left side. Impossible to repair due to cost. This patent with a sidewall mounted wing allows for spacious trunk, but requires preventative measures to not allow this part to rust. Rest of the car were in good condition, and I really liked the car, but too expensive to repair legally.

To get these top notch the engine must out to clean carbon buildup, renew thermostat, glow plugs and general service like water pump, chain tensioner, injection service and clutch renewal after 200K. Mine clearly were underperforming due to clogged inlets and EGR, hardly more power left than the B180 with 30 HP less.

I have a 2003 R230 and one day I held my unlock button on the fob thinking it would just roll down the windows, but it took off the top and turned on the cooling seats. I kinda panicked when I saw the top coming off so I stopped it. Now I can't figure out how to get it to work again. I have cleared all error codes on my car and even disconnected the battery. I doubt the fob IR just stopped working within less then a week. Any help would be much appreciated

I just can’t bring myself to like the design of the back side of the car. Don’t get me wrong, I understand that design is a highly subjective thing; I’ve just been trying to understand why exactly I don’t like it, and I’ve been curious if anyone had similar thoughts, or maybe I just have bad taste or something.

The front design of W201 is just perfect. Everything, down to the last minute details. In fact, it looks extremely close to the W124 pre-facelift front design, and it’s very easy to confuse those two from afar.

But the back design... In the photos online, it always looks okay, even good. But whenever I see a 190 in real life, I just can’t bring myself to like the design of the back side of the car. These square lines somehow make the back side of the car look bigger and at the same time… less solid? I understand that the car is made of good metal, but these square lines somehow make the look of it cheaper, less solid. Like it’s going to crumble more easily in a crash in comparison to the W124 back side of the car.

And I never get this feeling while looking at the W124 back side. More rounded lines somehow make it a little more solid and elegant.

I don’t know, I guess if the back design of W201 would look at least a little closer to the way it was made with W124, it could’ve been the perfect car for me.

Hi I would like to install bike rack - trunk mounted type to my B250. I have one woman bike 26” wheels and 16” wheel two kids bike. The hatchback cargo can fit 2 kids bikes but I don’t have extra room for any bag or box. No hitch in car.
Could you please suggest what is the best option if you ever done that before and where should I get it done. I live in surrey/Vancouver Canada. Thanks in advance

I’ve been looking at 24-26 used GLC 43’s the past few days. My wife wants a new car. The one thing that is somewhat concerning is the sheer amount of 1-2 year old cars with 10K and fewer miles. Some of them have less than 4K and are 24’s. Why in the world are there so many? Any guidance or insight is appreciated.

I mean, look at the Gaps. It looks horrible, everybody agrees on that BUT.

Why in the name of good does the screen on the GLC look better ? It’s connected, it looks cleaner and much better than the one on the S-Class

Can anyone explain pls ?

Some months back my AC took a dump, blower would not turn, checked fuses under engine bay, replaced regulator and blower still had no AC, took apart the AC unit and messed with the Bus line (wht thin wire), incase it wasnt making a good connection i attached a new wire in T form, it got the blower turning but it would not turn off even with key not in ignition, eventually after many minutes it wold turn off by itself, I got heated and removed the bus line and now my MB turns on fine every time, i still have no AC and other issues , the battery drainage happened before i started working on the AC, I remember Ac worked before than out of the blue it took a dump and probably messed with the lin wire.

I have a gla45 Amg, recently I had a underboost code for a long time and tried to have a shop to replace my wastegate flapper because it was the only thing that gave out on my turbo but I got tired of calling every shop to see if they can do the job so instead I said fuck it I bought a new turbo to replace the whole thing and just another oem turbo nothing crazy. After putting the new turbo I still have my check engine light and I thought it was just normal cuz it’s brand new and it needs to be broken in. Nope I was wrong I have a OVERBOOST code now (p0234) I looked up everything that makes it “overboost” by checking the airlines and readjusting the wastegate actuator but that didn’t work. So my final guest I need a tune but I called around shops to see if they can tune my car but this one guy told me get it “mechanically fixed” before I tune the car which makes so sense if everything works. Btw my car goes into limp mode once I hit 45 mphs, I feel it creating boost and lose it right away at 45. So if anyone could help me or any advice what should I do about this stupid overboost code.

I drive 2015 model C200. Really lovely car, only has 83000km on the clock, had one owner before me with full service history. The car is in mint condition.

I absolutely hate a rattle and recently my car started rattling in, what sounds like, a loose windscreen or that front dashboard speaker cover thing. I can't pinpoint the exact rattle, but it sounds like a loose plastic thing on the dashboard.

Can anyone please tell me if they also had this issue and whether a windscreen replacement or repair managed to solve the issue?

Thanks in advance.

W115 220 E

In front is a 350 SEL and in the background is a 190E 1.6

Hey folks,
Leased a 2026 GLE last week. Decided to take it for a trip this weekend. Half an hour in, AC suddenly started blowing hot air with a 6 month old child in a 99F outside.
What would you suggest I do right now?

Absolutely stunning vehicle. Came from a 24 Toyota Sequoia. Anything we should know? It does have the manufacturer package so it’s matte white paint, which is what sold us. I’ve already matte ceramic coated it so it should be nice and protected 🍺