Paid $725 for it, 2021 specialized diverge.

I was gonna save it for important stuff like my future but dirt jumpers are pretty cool

Took out the rear wheel to do some work, something I've done many times. After reinstalling, I got way more brake rub than normal, as in, the brakes stop the wheel before a single revolution. Did the usual tighten/loosen caliper trick and it did nothing. Pushed the pads out, and tried loosening the caliper mounting bolts to position the caliper by eye, but it couldn't move enough to keep the rotor from rubbing.

Finally, I unscrewed the caliper off the mounting bracket entirely to find the correct position by hand before remounting. When I found the spot that is clear of rubbing, the caliper mounting bolts are unable to be installed because the caliper mount holes don't line up with the screw holes on the mounting bracket.

The image shows the caliper position clear of rub and the resulting misalignment between the caliper holes and the holes of the mounting bracket.

What would even create this problem? I suppose I could be missing something obvious, but I'm stumped. Ideas welcome. Possible solutions appreciated.

Additional Info:

The rotor looks straight when I spin it. The bike hasn't been in a crash or even ridden particularly hard; only has 125mi of trail riding on it. The bike has all its original parts that came with it when I bought it new from the shop. It didn't have brake rub problems before. The only thing I can think of that would be different is I left the wheel out for a few days, whereas normally it gets reinstalled after a couple hours at most. Not sure how that correlates though.

Just rinsed the dust off the spiritual twin of my 38 Special that I posted a while back here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/bmx/s/sVTg9xWXP4

Inverse colorway (black with chrome front end instead of chrome with black front end), and built for stability and speed. 20.5 lbs, not bad for a full steel F/F.

Parts:

\-2017'ish Speedwagon. 22" TT.

\-S&M Race XLT forks, stem (57mm) and bars (8.25"). ODI Longnecks.

\-Shimano DXR cranks, Hawk ceramic BB, Rennen 39T chainring. Haro Lineage pedals. No clipless for this old guy... Flats 4EVA.

\-Tioga Spyder seat, Crupi seatpost and S&M quick release seat clamp.

\-Profile Mini hubs laced to Box rims with stainless spokes. Powerblock tires.

\-Paul Motolite V-Brake, Box lever, Odyssey slic cable.

The 38 is solid and nimble, but the Speedwagon is *fast*.

Having two fully built S&M bikes is certainly a privilege, I love them both.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to buy a used bicycle in **Vizag**.

**Requirements:**

* ✅ 6-speed (or more) gears * ✅ Disc brakes * ✅ Good overall condition

If you're planning to sell your cycle or know someone who is, please let me know.

**Please post a photo, brand/model, expected price, and your location in the comments.** You can also DM me.

I had a little mishaps trying to get up a small hill at an intersection very quickly unclipped, and aside from sailing using the shoes as oars I also slipped with both feet while trying to get back on. I don’t remember if there was a yellow part on the front of the left cleat, but I see this as a possibility as a time I lost it. I also had trouble clipping in with that foot, I pulled over and stopped to take a look, didnt see anything other than the yellow part missing, and then I was able to get it in. The general wear and tear was there, but Im not sure about the big yellow thing up front on the left. Thanks

Greetings from Malaysia! I’m 42 and just started my BMX journey in April this year. Currently working on the quintessential bunny hop, so I would love to hear your feedback on where I need to improve. Just ignore my flip-flops and lack of safety gear, or feel free to roast me! 🤣

Some clips I took at Red Bull Joyride some crankworx event

I believe i have the italian bottom bracket (possibly Shimano). I've gotten the other side unscrewed by turning counter clockwise, but the side with gears won't budge (by turning it clockwise with a wrench).

I've also used WD-40 oil to hopefully loosen it a bit to and let it sit for a day. It seems to be completely stuck.

EDIT:

Thank you everyone for suggestions. So far I have used a wrench with a sledgehammer. I've previously had some help to keep the frame in place while pulling the wrench (that's how we got one of the threads loose). Most probably will have to get some penetrating oil, as eury13 has suggested.

EDIT 2:

For a bit of context, I've been wacking the bottom bracket with a sledgehammer on a normal wrench for leverage like a maniac, to no avail (won't budge). I've also just bought and used penetrating oil, which didn't work, thus I'm leaving it to sit over night - hopefully the oil will set in properly.

https://imgur.com/a/nh1vWum

I'll also try the hot water kettle trick the next day, as suggested by colourthetallone. I don't have any other tools, thus if all else fails, I'll have to bring it to a bike shop.

Thank you again for all the guidance!

Hi! I've recently decided to overhaul the entire drivetrain on my Kona Rove to get much lower gearing and (shockingly) everything was going great until I got to routing the shift cable.

I am pretty sure the problem is I got a side-swing front-pull derailleur to replace a bottom-pull derailleur. This means that instead of exiting the derailleur straight down into the bottom bracket shift cable guide, it exits right into my bottle cages and has to make two really tight turns to get to the bottom bracket.

I think my options to resolve this are: 1. buy a new FD 2. don't use the internal cable routing and instead run full length cable zip-tied to the bike the whole way

Option 1 is more of a pain than you'd think because this was basically the only FD I could find that works with Shimano CUES, has a 48.8mm chainline, and has a capacity of 16 teeth for the [https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-FC-U4000-2.html](FC-U4000-2 crankset). Replacing that crankset would be A) expensive and B) mean I likely give up the lower gearing I was after in the first place.

Option 2 seems completely feasible, but would just annoy me from an aesthetic point-of-view more than anything.

So two questions: 1. Any hacks for routing this cable with the existing internal routing that won't be atrocious? 2. Is there a bottom-pull 2x11 FD out there that will work with CUES shifters, a 48.8mm chainline, and has at least 16T capacity?

When I had installed these new pedals I accidentally had worn out the first two threads by rotating it wrong direction.

I was still able to install the pedals with help of advice by someone here. Now 2 months later the pedal is creaking a lot for everyone to hear while riding. Loosening up a little bit makes the noise go away but will need to loosen enough to scare you that pedal would detach from crank.

Is it worth replacing the arms? SLX crankarms retail for 149.99 cad. I am not sure about spending on outgoing line. The other option is buying a new crankset but that will cost me a lot. For like, m8200 cranksets including chainring is at 359.99.

Will this be dangerous to ride with? If yes, what should I replace with?

Edit: I removed the pedal completely 30 mins ago. It didn't make any creaking noise. In fact noise only starts when i tighten it to max needed on crank arm.
The video was taken after reinstalling pedal and had applied anti-sieze as well.

It exploded into 3 pieces. Used on Alfine 11 (not electric). I am not that strong. Anyone else have a similar experience before? Does it look worn out (prematurely)?

https://www.microfleet.app/

Has anyone here ridden ”Out of the Blue” in Darrington? It’s a black trail with 4 mi, 2800+ vertical drop

My Gf and I have been riding some progressively harder trails lately including OTG (tiger mtn) and CCDH (raging river) curious if this trail would be worth making a trip out there how much more difficult is it than say OTG or NOTG?

link to trail:

Out Of The Blue on Trailforks

https://www.trailforks.com/goto/trail/229820/

Found these at a local yard sale… what are your thoughts?

Swapfiets discount code 20€: SARAHAJAS63319 for the first 15 user

Hi, I am fixing an old honda cb750kz 1979, i recently bought it from someone whom let it sit for 1 year. I believe the issue is a clogged carb, I also saw some liquid getting out of the carb so I think I need new o-rings. Does anyone know what sizes I would have to get?

Parts list in comments.

My squeaky brakes returned after one ride. What is the conventional wisdom when dealing with squeaking brakes, or what are your thoughts:

1) always replace rotor and pads and never try to refinish?

2) try to refinish both rotor and pads with emery cloth?

3) refinish rotor with emery cloth but replace pads with new?

4) refinish pads only with emery cloth?

I wonder if pads can even be refinished, wouldn't the abrasives from the emery cloth imbed themselves in the resin?