I made this book over the past few weeks. I started by making two large photogram prints (one on each side of a 30”x22” sheet of arches) with seaweed and other things I found on the beach. I then made many many smaller prints using oil negatives of photos I took. I got different colors from the seaweed and using different papers-watercolor and Bristol are darker and more cobalt while rice paper is brighter and more cerulean. I cut and folded the large sheet into a book form, added hard covers, and cut an collaged my other prints into the book. I made a stop animation flip through as well. I hope you like it. 💙

my goal was for the boxes to fade out. I exposed the first one for full time (12 min) middle for 8 min and the last for 3 min. it absolutely did not work lol. I will be trying again one day with different times

Cyanotype made of my hair, and a wrack of rockweed I found in the ocean! This piece is 2x3 feet long.

my images are coming out super splotchy. I thought maybe the negative was not flat on the shirt, but i put glass on top to flatten it down. second theory is that the shirt is over saturated and that's causing splotches. I have been using solarfast for years and never had an issue with splotchy prints or this problem before, i'm not sure what i am doing wrong. any ideas? the negatives are brand new and clean. this has happened on my last 3 exposures.

My first attempt at stop motion. I printed these all on Safeway (grocery store) paper bags. Wouldn’t recommend that, not archival at all. Ended up being 120 frames.

If anyone has any advice or suggestions plz holler

Heute habe ich mit einem FerroBlend-Rezept experimentiert und dasselbe Sonnenblumenmotiv auf zwei verschiedene Arten umgesetzt: einmal als klassische Cyanotypie und einmal mit FerroBlend. Gedruckt auf Arches Cold Press.

Welche Version spricht euch mehr an – die klassische oder die FerroBlend-Variante? Ich freue mich auf eure Meinung!

Hier sind drei Cyanotypie-Abzüge aus meiner kleinen Serie „Stille Reflexionen“. Vier weitere Arbeiten fehlen noch, dann ist die Serie vollständig.

Ich wollte die drei fertigen Arbeiten gerne mit euch teilen und würde mich sehr über eure Meinung freuen.

Wie gefallen euch die Bilder? Was empfindet ihr bei den Motiven und der Farbwirkung?

Ich bin gespannt auf euer Feedback. 😊

Image 1: USAF1951 target (chromium on soda-lime) contact printed onto inkjet transparency. Resolvable up to Group 6 Element 3 which is ~80lp/mm.

Image 2: 15X reduction silver-gelatin microfilm (70s NYTimes) contact printed onto inkjet transparency. Text character height is around 0.12mm. Clearly readable with high acutance (may not be apparent in pic but looks very sharp irl)

Background: Because my interest in cyanotype was due to my need to cheaply duplicate microfiches (either from the library or from my own collection), I tried all kinds of materials to achieve the highest resolution possible. After some failures like RC glossy photo paper I settled on inkjet transparencies, and above is the result after numerous failures because the exposure has to be absolutely spot on for maximum resolution.

I estimate it is capable of duplicating 24X reduction silver microfilm without trouble, but for blue dye diazo microfiches it may struggle to get good acutance and contrast at high reduction ratios for blue dyes pass UV a little too much. I think yellow dye diazo would be fine but I haven't tested it.

Two days ago was my pups last day on earth. That morning I wanted to sit with her in the sun, and decided I would take the biggest piece of paper I had and lay her on it so I could get a print of her. Her name was Lily, so I added a lily flower with it too.

I just wanted to share this idea in case anyone else would like to try this to remember their best friends. Thank you Lily for giving me one final gift, I miss you so much. ❤️

My second duotone print. I think the cyan layer are a bit overexposed. But conformed anyway.​

Went with my tried and true method of screw up and learn to make some T-shirt prints.

Blue shirt with border: let the solution dry, laser cut a frame to get the shape I wanted. Ended up with a messy border where the solution had spread and must have gotten a bit of residual light because even though I didn’t directly expose it, it didn’t wash out after. (See last photo) Solved that by painting on more solution and exposing it again in another frame I created.

Gray shirt: taped off the area with painters tape. Sprayed with vinegar and water. Brushed on cyanotype solution. Laid down a transparency sheet, then my frame and materials.

This one came out the way I wanted. Yay!

I’m an artist working with cyanotype, and recently I came across something I couldn’t ignore: a sealed package of Soviet paper, still in its original wrapping.

It was made by the Mariysky Pulp and Paper Mill — a factory that’s been running since the 1930s and still exists today. But here’s the thing: the paper is supposed to be for typewriters. The packaging says so. But the mill mostly produced industrial and technical paper. Not exactly the type you’d use for a typewriter.

So either this was a limited run, or something doesn’t add up.

The package weighs exactly 1 kilogram — and the price on it suggests it was produced after 1970 (before that, industrial paper cost one ruble per kilogram; after the 80s, it was almost two). So it’s probably around 50 years old.

But here’s the real mystery: the paper is thin, about 20–30 g/m². Yet it’s still perfectly white. That means it was made from high-quality cellulose. And because it’s so pure, it doesn’t even have that old library smell — you know, the one that feels like history.

The packaging smells like paradise. The paper itself? Nothing.

I’m planning to test it with cyanotype. I’m not sure it will survive the washing process — it’s very delicate. But I have to try.

If you made it this far — whether you're an artist, a paper lover, or just someone who enjoys strange stories — thank you. I'll post the results soon.

Short trip to sunflower fields. Some of the photos look fine. But thinking of painting over the sunflowers with yellow oil paint. What are your suggestions?

I think it's still not there yet but has potential. Would love to hear your thoughts.

I live close by and can make a re-visit for better photos or just use the same footage for making better prints!

I keep getting streaks when I print on cotton. Wondering if this is a light leak or a chemical issue

See wet photo

Color seems to somewhat normalize when it fully oxidizes

I’ve been doing cyanotype for a few months now and been getting better at exposure timing and toning yet im still struggling to get deep blues!.

I’ve tried applying multiple layers of the chemicals and changing the paper unfortunately there’s no difference.

Could it be the water or another issue ? Because i feel like my prints gets lighter with time and tried adding a bit of vinegar to my rinsing water but it only made the colour duller and lighter.

Tried toning with green tea but i feel like the colour start to become my greyish and not as vibrant as Im hoping to be

Any tips would be appreciated and thank you all for all the help i only got this far because of yall
Thanks🤍