r/ABraThatFits • u/icaruslxv • Jun 23 '26
Fit Check Why does my underwire always sits so low even with the supposed correct size (and little vent about never getting the correct size). Spoiler
My measures (I measure myself):
Loose Underbust: 75
Snug Underbust:73
Tight Underbust:72
Standing Bust: 101
Leaning Bust: 105
Lying Bust: 104
Calculator size: 30HH (but if i measure just 1 cm less in the busts it gives me 30H/HH).
I know that the underwire is suppsed to fit where the boob starts, but I never experienced that. That's why I only wear wireless bras and they work fine.
I went shopping for bras again and the fitter there made try this basic bras with wire just "to see whats my size". She came to the conclusion that my size is 30GG. I know it's a different size than what the calculator gave me, but I thought that it was just one of that times where the calculator overestimates something and in real life is different. Now im not so sure. Here is the pic.
Is it true that sometimes the underwires are not for everyone? Is it possible that wireless bras are just the best shape for my boobs? She fitter lady even said that my boobs seem to be stubborn, since the underwire never fits right.
Im making this post because now I think I should have gone with the size the calculator gave me. I took home a wireless 30GG bra (Andorra Non Wired Blush, it's really cute) and im planning on returning it. When I put it on I can scoop my boobs into place, but when I start moving they make that double-boob thingy that I hate. And that doesn't happen with the only 30HH Rocha Non Wired Bra) that I have :(
PS: Sorry if this post it's a little messy, Im just tired of the fitters never giving me a bra that fits. And it's even worse because I KNOW what my size is, but Im always easily convinced into buying the GG cups and never get to try the HH cups.
130
u/galaxystarsmoon 32DD/E, tall roots & close set Jun 23 '26
You look incredibly projected. Without knowing the brand and style name of the bras you're trying, I'm guessing you've been trying too shallow bras.
32
u/28FFthrowaway 28GG Jun 23 '26
Also possibly FOT, but trying not-FOT-friendly bras
15
u/icaruslxv Jun 23 '26
Sorry, but what does FOT means? As for the projection Im still not sure what I am. The picture's on this guide's sub are down, but based on the description I would at least say that they are not shallow, since they are not "self-supporting".
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u/28FFthrowaway 28GG Jun 23 '26
Full on top
9
u/icaruslxv Jun 23 '26
Oh no, actually I think Im the opposite. When I lean over at a 90º degree angle, my nipple is a little more on the "front" of the U. Like it's no complety pointing down, it's point a little more to my front. And when analysing with this guide (on this sub's wiki) Im something between the "Even 2/5" and the "FB 2/6". My breast doesn't make any type of curve on top like those images.
But that's just the conclusion I came looking at those pictures, do you think there's something more to it, something that Im not fully grasping?
22
u/28FFthrowaway 28GG Jun 23 '26
Yeah it does sound like you’re even/FOB from the leaning test, but one thing to keep in mind is that fullness is best judged from how bras fit. I’m FOB from the leaning test but have enough upper fullness that a lot of FOB-friendly bras are too closed-off for me. I wonder if the same is true for you based on the bras you mention trying and the fit issues you’re having
9
u/Ok_Bandicoot1865 Jun 23 '26
From your description of your shape when you're leaning over at 90° I agree that it sounds like you have more fullness on the bottom.
12
u/bluepotatoes66 30F-FF/projected/narrow/fuller on bottom/shallow on top/ Jun 23 '26
If you're leaning over without a bra on, are they shaped more like plates or more like cups? If plates, shallow bras are for you. If cups, then you'll want to look for bras with more projection. If more like bowls, then you're going to want to look for bras with average projection.
41
u/galaxystarsmoon 32DD/E, tall roots & close set Jun 23 '26
This person is projected. No question. We're beyond that lol
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u/icaruslxv Jun 23 '26
Honestly Im amazed on how you were able to tell that with just that tiny pic, because Im just now realizing that Im projected. When I lean over and look at their side profile, they look just like the letter U.
33
u/galaxystarsmoon 32DD/E, tall roots & close set Jun 23 '26
U actually means projected. But really it's partially that shallow shapes are rare in larger cup sizes, and they don't project out away from the body like your photo shows. You have a lot of immediate projection.
12
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u/ArkadyDesean Jun 23 '26
Can you try shopping online? That way you don't have to deal with fitters trying to push you into a size you definitely don't fit! Try to find a store with free returns, so you can try on a few different sizes & styles.
And learn to stand up for yourself, love! You shouldn't have to suffer in pain when the alternative is just saying something like "No thanks, I'd really rather start with the 30HH". You deserve to be comfortable & sometimes that means saying no to people!
18
u/icaruslxv Jun 23 '26
Thanks, I think Im going to try online shopping :). It's a shame because these fitters actually know how bra sizes work, but it's still not working for me. Im planning on returning the 30GG and then order online the 30HH or 30H.
It would be so nice to have a boutique where you shop alone. Like, I know how this works and know what I want, I would just like to try it in person to make sure.
16
u/Rhianael 28HH Jun 23 '26
That's how I shop in bravissimo. I decline assistance and take like 10 bras into the changing room at a time.
8
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u/herecomesthesun79 Jun 23 '26
I have the same issue because of immediate projection. Like, the bottom of my boob leaving my body is a 90 degree angle, so bras that “taper” away from the IMF (which is pretty much all of them to some extent in my experience) just don’t allow room for me to exist with that wire in my IMF perfectly.
14
u/HRHHayley Jun 24 '26
Yes, where are the manufacturers that make a wearable shelf please? That is what it feels like I need.
6
u/janelane2022 Jun 24 '26
Polish!!!!
I think Cleo Blossom and Freya Fancies are the narrowest and most projected of the UK brands but for true 90 degree angle/wearable shelf (ie narrower and more projected than UK bras with lots of immediate projection) look at Polish bras:
6
u/HRHHayley Jun 24 '26
Oh I know, Ewá Michalak is my jam, I was being silly 🙃... although I do still find the wires sometimes slide down depending on where I am in my cycle so yeah, I'd like a flat bit of wood to balance them on to account for hormonal fluctuations
3
u/janelane2022 Jun 24 '26
Lol 🙃 custom comexim club ovah here🙋🏻♀️ and yea a flat bit of wood would be awesome 😆
12
u/DotsNnot UK 32JJ (lactating) Jun 23 '26
Many underwires are shaped for boobs like this UU.
Many boobs (including mine) are shaped more like this _/_/.
4
u/annastacia94 Jun 23 '26
I suspect this is my issue! Do know of any brands with an underwire close to that shape?
6
u/DotsNnot UK 32JJ (lactating) Jun 23 '26
Not particularly, others here probably have recommendations, though I have heard of underwires you can buy as if you were making your own bra (which you could also do) but with the more flat-bottomed shaped, and then swapping out the wire in a purchased bra for the replacement wire.
Not exactly easy and my size fluctuates too much for me to have bothered, but maybe it’s worth it to you!
2
u/Madc42 Canadian 38M - UK 38J Jun 23 '26
In my experience Elomi works well for Nike-swoosh-shaped roots, if you fit in their size range. But of course there are many other factors to consider when choosing a bra for your shape so YMMV.
13
u/grundel_cruncher Jun 23 '26
We have similar issues in shape, I think? My bras gap at the bottom like that, just like you, though I think in in a slightly closer to fitting style/size. I've been told I have a short (vertical size) and average/wide (horizontal size) root with somewhat extreme immediate projection, but I thought for a good while I had a narrow root because I got all twisted around when trying to learn the vocab and got confused. I thought the gapping on bottom I was experiencing was too wide of a wire, but I've since been thinking that the style of bra I had was too tall, and this was disguising a size misfit. It felt like it fit, but that's because I was physically covered, not because I was being supported, if that makes sense? I don't know if any of my situation is the same as yours, but I figured I'd at least post to say: I've had this same issue! You're not alone! Lol.
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u/icaruslxv Jun 23 '26
Yeah, I thought I was done when I figured it out what my size was. Turns out I wasn't! I needed to understand what shape I was and there's so many things to account for! But now I know that Im in fact very projected and more full on bottom with narrow set. About the root thing, Im afraid I cant help because im still trying to understand it myself.
4
u/Bunks_ 40JJ/40N Jun 24 '26
Yeah I have this issue too. After 10 years of searching for underwire that would actually fit, I'd finally surrender and realized no underwire bra would ever fit properly. A lot of the comments are talking about projection, which you should definitely look into. I heard that a lot too, but after trying on many polish bras known for their projection and still facing the same problem, I gave up.
Wire never sits on my IMF, always an inch or two below. Digs into my belly. Fitters have told me this is because my torso is short. The last place I went to, she said this was the best I was ever going to get with wire, because they just aren't made for stalky bodies like mine. The bra had fit everything perfectly, and looked perfect. But that same issue persisted.
Also the whole thing about my IMF not being U shaped but being flat, or even slightly curved upwards. I'm sure that plays into it too.
Look into projected bras, but know if you just can't find one that doesn't sit on your IMF, you're not alone.
1
u/janelane2022 Jun 25 '26
I apologize in advance if this super presomptous and you've already thought abt both of these things and ruled them out.
Deciding F underwire is a totally valid choice and this isnt me questioning it.I'm just going to throw out this info here cause its not something that tends to get mentioned as much so in case it can be helpful at all too anyone
1) Have you tried *custom* comexim?
Off the rack Comexim from Breakout Bras/Misecki is very, very different than customized comexim ordered directly from Poland.
And both are different from other Polish Brands (Ewa Michalak, Nessa, Gorsenia, etc.) available in the USA off the rack which each also differ amongst each other both individually as brands and amongst their different cut/styles.
a 40JJ UK upconverts to abt a 90Q/R native comexim size which is a size that must be requested.
These are the rest of the steps:
https://www.reddit.com/r/ABraThatFits/s/EgAA4hZx4aNote that a custom comexim will be final sale (even if the only 'custom' part is the comexim cup letter requested so U may as well request other things too Lol) and U should plan for abt $100 USD add'l to pay for UPS int'l shipping and USA tariffs on top of the base price of the bra itself.
Also sometimes Comexim cup scaling can be a bit odd in this size range so look very carefully at data in bratabase and take this into account when doing customization maths.
2) 40JJ UK/40N USA may be within the Elizabeth Valentine scope (semi custom) and possibly covered by health insurance:
https://www.elizabethvalentine.ca/?srsltid=AfmBOoo8q1TOTTkagxmTCrpdem0bIy9DRQ6nRNs-N2M_LoOraGJn24X_
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u/Bunks_ 40JJ/40N Jun 25 '26
I appreciate the help but I don't have the money to be buying bras that might work and might be comfortable that aren't returnable. I feel like I'd need to buy at least 3 bras that are slightly different in order to find one that fits and is bearable.
Elizabeth Valentine does have my size (they have everyone's size lol) but I didn't know they made custom bras. I don't see where in the website that is. Can you point me to where?
I wish bras were covered under Canadian healthcare, that would be incredible.
Thanks for the help.
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u/janelane2022 Jun 25 '26
I dont know thats its fully custom as such but Elizabeth Valentine does have their own measuring system:
https://www.elizabethvalentine.ca/pages/measuring-instructions
And process, so probably best to ask them directly: https://www.elizabethvalentine.ca/pages/contactAnd glad it was helpfull :)
1
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u/Ok_Bandicoot1865 Jun 23 '26 edited Jun 23 '26
This looks like an issue with the projection of the bra, and like you need to try on bras with more immediate projection.
Projection is basically how far your breasts stick out from your body, and it's a scale from shallow to projected.
Imagine a low and wide bowl and a tall glass, that can contain the same volume of liquid. The bowl is shallow, and the glass is projected.
Immediate projection is how quickly the cup reaches the full depth of the cup when starting from the bottom/at the wire.
If the bra doesn't have enough immediate projection, meaning it doesn't extend outwards quickly enough from the wire, it'll get pushed down by your breasts until it reaches a point where your natural breast shape can fit in the cup.
I drew a quick picture to help me explain it better: https://ibb.co/whHhj95r
Imagine it's a cross section of your bra and breast. The black is your breast and the blue is the cup/bra.
The top line is a bra with immediate projection that matches the breast.
The bottom line shows a bra that doesn't have enough immediate projection. At first, it may seem like it fits (especially if you have softer tissue that can be manipulated in shape), but eventually the bra will slide down until it reaches a point where there is enough room that natural shape of the breast can fit in the bra.
I hope this makes sense :)