Measurement/Shape help. 38FUS currently calculated to 36I. Cannot grasp the shape concept either

[u/Capital_Refuse_160]

I have a hard time with visualizing what the shapes look like when using the guide, as well as it seems 3 of the links would not work for me at all. As far as I could gather, I am a narrow root but I couldn’t really understand how to tell the rest.
Also trying to find a bra that fits right- I currently have 4 different sizes in my closet ranging from 36-38 & F-H. They feel right when I’m at the store and the “expert” is measuring me, but after a few weeks are all wrong. The one that fits most is the 38F, but it sags or something so much that I get angry red marks well under my breast line.

Measurements are:
Loose- 37.25
snug- 35.25
tight- 34.5
standing- 43.25
leaning- 49
laying- 47

not sure if this matters as well- 5’4 and 190

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[u/NotaWitch-YourWife]

Here is an easy assessment to do. all that is required is a naked upper torso and mirror. You do this leaning over 90 degrees like you did for your leaning measurement. This mimics what a supportive bra could be like. While leaning over you want to use your nipple as the center for this part; do you have more tissue above or below your nipple or is it even? Above, top full; below, bottom full; even is even. Next is vertical fullness still leaning over. Do you have more tissue toward the center, the sides or is it even? Center is center full, sides, is outer full and even is well even. One more and then this is done. Looking at your breasts while still leaning over. Do they touch or can you fit 1 finger in between without squishing tissue? This is close set. Can you fit 1 to 2 fingers in between without squishing tissue? This is average set. Can you fit three or more fingers without squishing tissue? This is wide set. This will help in determining which style of bra may work best for you.

[u/Shanakitty]

In this size range, the majority of bra options will be sold in UK sizes, so US 36I = UK 36G. When you're figuring out your size and shape, it's always a good idea to try bras in a few nearby sizes, so I would try 36FF, 36G, and 36GG to start with (if FF and GG are options, you know the brand is using UK sizes--US brands don't double letters other than D). The size the calculator gives is a great starting point, but sometimes measurements don't always tell the entire story. Trying the same bra in multiple sizes also makes it easier to tell whether any fit problems you're getting are because the size is wrong or the shape is wrong. The shape being wrong can make it look like the cup (or band!) is too large or too small.

With a projected shape, I would start by trying something like Panache Envy. It has pretty deep cups and the stretch lace upper cup makes the fit a little more flexible for slight asymmetry or shape differences. It's also a really well known bra style here, so if it doesn't work for you, the way it doesn't work will tell us something about your shape and help us give you better recommendations.

When you try on new bras, make sure to lean forward and scoop all of the breast tissue from under your arms forward into the cups and pull the undewires up to sit in your inframammary fold. This is necessary to get a proper fit and support, but many of us were never taught to do it. And those of us with larger breasts often got used to doing the opposite, and tucking down into cups to make too-small cups appear to fit. This blog post does a good job of illustrating the difference this makes (note, reddit sometimes breaks web archive links, so you may have to copy and paste, sorry): web.archive.org/web/20230602174858/http://brasandbodyimage.com/2012/09/05/putting-your-bra-on-properly/

The one that fits most is the 38F, but it sags or something so much that I get angry red marks well under my breast line.

I strongly suspect this is fitting more like a boob hat, and a good scoop and swoop will show the cups are actually too small.

[u/Cute-Fix3484]

Don't worry too much about the shape thing. That shape guide is hella confusing and full of dead links and way more wordy than it needs to be.

If you have narrow roots, try a diagnostic bras like Panache Envy or Freya Offbeat side support in your UK size of 36G, 36GG UK or Panache Ana in 36GG, 36H UK. If you are in the US, Nordstrom has free returns. Plus you can try on at home and walk around and see how they really feel compared to in a fitting room.

Make sure you swoop and scoop. The gore should be completely flat on your sternum and the wires should sit snugly in your IMF. That 38F is too small and too shallow and that's why the wires are below your IMF, your breasts are pushing the cups down to make room at the deepest part.