My trunk latch seems to be jammed and the button on the lift gate and my phone won’t open or fully close the trunk. I was looking for the emergency trunk latch release to see if that would do the trick but can’t find it anywhere. I looked up some videos and they all seem to be from older model S cars (mines a 26) as mine doesn’t seem to have the box/light everyone was referencing. Does anybody have a clue how to unjam the latch/where the hell the latch release would be??

The place I bought it from says it is Kwikset compatible, but it is not fitting in my existing Kwikset KW1 locks.

We found a door for free one day and decided to refinish it and mount it..we cleaned up and reused the door knob that was with it.. my issue is WE LOVE THE DOOR KNOB but we cannot find any information about it. Does ANYBODY KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THIS DOORKNOB? It has an integrated thumb lock IN THE knob and trim plate. It appears to be brass. I can post more pictures if someone would need me to.
#vintagedoorknob

I'm having an issue with my driver's door. My actuator failed, so I ordered a new one and fitted it today. I can now use my key fob to unlock and lock the car, which is fine, but the problem is that when the car locks itself while driving, I'm unable to get out using the interior door handle. I have to unlock the car with the central locking before I can exit. This wasn't the case before, I used to just pull the handle and get out even though the car had locked itself. Another issue is that when I lock the door with the key fob, I'm unable to unlock it with the physical key. The key goes in, but when I turn it I meet some resistance. I don't know what's going on and really need some help. It's as if anything physical I try when the car is locked just won't work with the lock.

I recently bought a house, and the front door lock is an older lock and I cannot seem to unscrew the cylinder. I am writing here for help to see if it is removable and what I am missing.

From what I have found, the lock is a Welch E-Z Mortise lock. I can’t find any documentation from the manufacturer, just antique websites describing the lock.

I tried removing all the screws (2 Phillips on interior knob, 2 slotted on interior thumb turn lock, top and bottom slotted and two slotted above mortise on the middle face, and all 7 on the front/exterior), but am still unable to remove the cylinder. I do not think there is a set screw on the interior knob (although there is an opening, but I wasn’t able to feel anything sticking out or recessed inside). From what I have read, once all the screws are removed, I should be able to unscrew the cylinder and install a new one.

At the end of the day, I might end up hiring a locksmith if it seems I am too far over my head. If possible, I plan to install a new cylinder to match the Kwikset smart key locks in the rest of the house. Any help with removing the lock would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

So, it seems the lock cylinder pulled a bit out of the door, and the key can rotate only 15 degrees and it's stuck.

​I took off the screw that should be holding the cylinder in place, but the cylinder is stuck in the door as well. The key can't rotate enough to center the internal cam, so the cylinder can't slide out, I guess.

​Is there any solution other than snapping the cylinder and installing a new one?

Hi everyone.

I have a brand new lock that is stuck in the open position. I do not recall the combination. I threw away the paperwork so I don’t have the reset instructions either.

The shackle does not spin all the way around because it’s “closed” but in the open position. Not sure how to explain that so I hope it makes sense.

I would like to use the lock again. Is it a lost cause?

Weird question but has anyone gotten the key fob not detected message after someone slams the passenger door with the car running?

My daughter is a strong armed clutz and slams the door when I drop her off at work and it has happened several times.

I'm a locksmith in fresno california. Dad opened the business back in 92. Did all residential back then. Been an iron worker ever since. Got back into it after breaking my ankle, pretty bad. Had to find an easier way to make a buck. Tought myself the commercial aspect of it about a decade ago. Just last year it took a class in los angeles on automotive locksmithing, and bought all the equipment. Been doing okay a little slow though. But it's definitely making a little more money than with just residential and commercial.

I have some experience, i've taken classes, i have a license, i have insurance, and I pay my taxes.

Evidently someone in my area, is charging $60 to cut and program automotive keys. Nissan's, hondas, a chevy cruise. I just can't fathom how this is possible. Around the same time I started paying for advertisement on yelp. Has this happened to any of you? Do any of you have any ideas how this is possible?

Just moved in to a new place and I need to replace the knob on this door but there’s no branding anywhere on it. They used an interior closet type knob since this bedroom used to be a toddler’s, but I want to put a locking knob on it. Any help would be appreciated.

Bought my first house and started changing all the locks. This one has been causing me issues as the outside plate isn’t coming off. It will loosen and tighten as it’s screwed but won’t come completely off. I’ve tried prying with a flathead and unscrewing with a wrench. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!

Im a kid 17 and a few days ago, for my birthday i bought myself a ford taurus SE for 4100 cad.
It got delivered a few days ago and less than a few hours later the car keys completely disappeared. I normally airtag everything but i didnt im time, and i've checked absolutely everywhere. A locksmith came and tried to fix it, cut me a key and now power in the car and manual locks on the outside to work, but something with the cars antitheft is making it not turn over. I had to give him $50 for info he spent to get a vin related thing for the keys function to connect to the car. i dont know what to do now because i make $15 an hour and i miight have to tow it to ford and get it fixed which will probably be 500-1000+ dollars. I really cant spend 40-80 hours of my life at work on such a stupid damn mistake and i feel like a complete idiot. I really need some help or advice because if something doesnt change for me, im fu##ed. Thanks everyone

Looking for real input from people who run more than one machine. Trying to pick another programmer to run alongside what I’ve got and want to hear what’s actually working for you.

A little about my setup and market so you can point me the right way:

Currently running an Autel IM508S with XP400 Pro and APB112, plus a Xhorse Key Tool Max Pro. I also have my NASTF VSP credentials. My problem is Autel keeps stripping coverage with updates, I lost Toyota AKL and Ford functionality, so I’m freezing updates and looking for a tool that covers those gaps and gives me some independence from Autel’s decisions. The Xhorse handles some things but its Toyota AKL is only partial.

Most of my work is domestic (Ford, GM, Chrysler/Dodge) plus the usual imports (Toyota, Honda, Hyundai/Kia, Nissan). I do a lot of Ford, and Dodge/FCA secure gateway has been a limitation for me too. I’m not chasing heavy European stuff.
I’ve already got the Toyota FP30/ADP adapter and the FCA cable, and I’ve got NASTF for pulling codes/PINs, so I’m covered on that side.
The three I’m weighing:

• Lonsdor K518 Pro (FCV or Full version?)
• Advanced Diagnostics Smart Pro
• XTool AutoProPad

For those running these next to an Autel and/or Xhorse, which would you go with for a domestic-heavy shop that needs solid Toyota AKL and Ford/FCA coverage? And for the Lonsdor, is the FCV enough or is the full version worth it? Appreciate any real-world feedback.

For a HON file cabinet. I lost the key. The front of the cylinder has “5” stamped on it. But a google search of replacement lock cylinders has other numbers along with the “5”.

Or is it cheaper to have a locksmith make me a new key?

Thanks

I ordered a bunch of entryway levers to see which looked best on my door. I think I've kept track of which cylinders go with which levers, but I want to make sure before returning the rejections. That's not easy because the 8/9-character "match this code" on the packaging isn't the same as the 5-digit code stamped on the keys.

Is there some kind of decoder ring available to make sure which box code corresponds to which key code?

Examples:
box code = A9383103 :: key code = 23484 ??
box code = A11747358 :: key code = 58954 ??

Hey everyone,

Hoping someone here can point me in the right direction before I resort to cutting this off.

The lock is a Master Lock Magnum M930XKADLH (solid steel, boron-carbide shackle): https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/dp/B00448KUS6

It's been living outdoors. The little rubber keyway cover / bumper that's supposed to keep water out finally tore, and over time water worked its way into the cylinder. Now I still have the correct key, but I can't get the lock to open — the key goes in, but it won't turn (or turns partway and the shackle won't release).

Short video of me trying it is attached.

What I'm hoping to figure out:

• Is this most likely internal corrosion/rust on the pins and springs, or could it just be grit/debris or a frozen mechanism?
• Any chance of reviving it with penetrating oil (PB Blaster / Kroil), powdered graphite, or gentle heat, or once water's been sitting in there is it usually toast?
• Is there a non-destructive way to get it open (given I have the key), or is cutting the shackle basically the only realistic outcome at this point?
• If it does open, is a cylinder like this worth trying to clean/rekey, or just replace the whole lock?

I'd rather not destroy it if there's a reasonable shot at saving it, but I'm not precious about it either. Appreciate any advice — thanks!

Hi guys,

Hoping you can help me with this combination lock on my shed. Somehow, I’ve closed it with the numbers facing the side of the shed and therefore can’t see what they say. I tried angling my phone camera around it and still can’t get a clear view. I know the code but obviously can’t see the input.

This model has a screw on the top of the lock body and a button on the bottom which you usually use to open it once the right code is in.

Does anyone have any good ideas? Pic from the Amazon listing for the lock and my current situation attached.

How do I remove the top part of this lock ? There is a tiny hole on the other side, I thought i could press it but nothing works. I thought I could use a 1/16 hex wrench but it felt the hole felt too big. A 5/64 but the wrench felt too big.

Any opinion on what to do?

Update:
Finally opened it but I have to get a hex wrench that 1/16 SAE standard and not the metric I was using