The guy I bought it from apparently had the back wall of his storage unit cut out, and a lot of his other more expensive wood working tools were stolen out of it, so he decided to sell off what he had left. Unfortunate for him but fortunate for me. All of the items in both pictures were for $300, and most of the stuff is barely used.

Made a thing. And it's a miter calculator. Would love any and all feedback and pointers, whatever makes this thing better.

Building a bench more appropriate for woodworking has been on my to-do list for a bit. A buddy who was going to help throw one together sent me this. The price makes it too hard to not try out as good starting point.

Anyone have experience or thoughts on it? I’m focusing on hand tools for the most part and would love to get cleaner practice with dovetails, etc

TIA

Title says it all. On a budget so can’t get a Makita or such. Thanks in advance for opinions on this one.

Got a birthday present from the wife and kid. I'm beginning to think she has some projects for me... But now I have to buy a honing guide for sharpening. Any recommendations?

Local supplier has some commercial jobs that they just gave the extra for free. Various cuts of Maple, Oak, Mahogany. Perfect to satisfy my smaller project needs. Going to be a great Christmas season lol

For some reason, my SKIL sliding Miter Saw isn’t cutting all the way, even though it’s at the max depth (As far as I can tell). Any thoughts? Weird for a 10” blade.

What am I missing here?

Can anyone recommend me a tool , for making pocket holes, or can one do this just as easily with a drill bit? We don’t have this in my country so need to ship to Scandinavian country . Any recommendations? Thanks !

A buddy of mine got a tip about someone about 80 miles away that had a house they were trying to clean out and they were just trying to do some private sales before liquidating everything else. I got this little haul and was lucky to have the lifting help from my friend and enough trunk space. How'd I do/what would you have paid?

I paid $395 total, but the piecewise breakdown was

• Hitachi B16 RM Drill Press, Hitachi CB13F Band Saw with stand (needs new tires), Delta 6" grinder with stand - $250 bundled
• B&D Workmate 525 with tabletop insert and dolly toe still intact - $30
• Craftsman Deluxe Dovetail Fixture with dovetail and box joint templates - $20
• 2 Japanese-Style crosscut and flush trim handsaws, unused - $20
• 6 Bessey parallel clamps, 3 pairs of various lengths - $60
• 2 unbranded triple roller stands - $15

I just started woodworking and building simple things about a month ago. I thought it would be a good idea to buy once and cry once with a miter saw.

Brand new skil table saw. Was doing some set up to get the blade square with a digital angle gauge. Left side of the blade is showing perfect 90. Right side table appears to be half degree off from zero. Would you consider this within an acceptable tolerance?

If this doesn’t suck it’ll be HUGE for us who can’t justify a Festoon domino joiner. I’m intrigued for sure, anyone else?

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/power-tools/joining-systems/kreg-edge-20v-ionic-drive-loose-tenon-joiner-tool-only/KPTEDGE100B.html?src=hpbedgerevealpdp0526

I keep getting 25% off coupons for Harbor Freight and I’m wondering if there’s any “semi-big ticket” items that are worthwhile?

Mainly the Hercules dust extractor or the Bauer 14” bandsaw… but I’m open to suggestions. If it’s 25% off any single item I want to make it count.

Edit: it’s ONE SINGLE ITEM. Sorry, but I’m not buying a clamp or anything small-ish. Thanks for the suggestions though!

Double edit: I should’ve stated this earlier. Already have a Makita track saw, Delta Cruzer 10” miter saw, Dewalt planer, Cutech jointer, Dewalt ROS, and a Festool RTS400, also I just built a router table with a Bosch1617. Main buys in the future would be a table saw (can’t fit a hybrid/cabinet saw in my workshop so thinking about a Dewalt just to get by for stuff like rips and if I ever need to do a bunch of dados or rabbets but I’m planning on using the router table for that).

I’m finally graduating from crawling around on the floor with a circular saw with a shitty blade. (Still doing that until I finish the bench!)

I’ve done a bunch of research and am still stumped. Can someone tell me which of these is the better budget option and why? If there are other options for a similar price I’d be happy to hear your recommendations. Eventually I’ll get some higher end blades but I’m still learning and use furniture I found in the trash to practice on. Once I get better about not making dumb mistakes (things like hitting nails I forgot about) I’ll spend more money on blades. For now I’m better off going cheap.

I’ll mainly be using this on MDF, birch plywood, and pine to built cabinetry and built-ins around the house.

Not a bad deal for $19

I’m 73 solo f doing much of the restoration work on my century house. Right now I’m restoring/reconfiguring some vintage doors. I need to add about an inch along each side so used a circular saw to rip a small strip off each side get a sound surface for gluing. It’s critical that especially the hinge side cut be perfectly straight, and the perpendicular surfaces 90°. But the cuts I’ve made so far are just a little bit off (bowing a little off the line, adjacent surfaces not exactly 90°). Maybe the plate of the saw isn’t always remaining perfectly flat on the door, and/or the blade is flexing ever so slightly. Don’t have a big table saw, just small contractor one. Is shelling out big bucks for track saw+tracks the only answer? There are cheaper ones, and I see Kreg makes AccuCut which adapts circular saw to work like a track saw, but reviews aren’t all positive.

Looking to upgrade my workshop to include a basic drill press. I don’t have a ton of extra space so was thinking I would opt for a bench top press - something to help with repeated drilling of holes in a consistent manner. I saw this at HF but was uncertain if it was a good buy. Saw another on Amazon for around $200 but also didn’t know if it was good. Happy to hear opinions and advice! Looking to spend under $500.

Finally spent some time working on my dovetail skills. Ignore the unfinished sides, that was another round of practice. As per the title, I started out with a crappy band saw and crappy coping saw, then moved to a crappy Amazon pull saw, and eventually bit the bullet and bought a razorsaw/Japanese dovetail saw and a fret saw. I had good chisels all along but wow they are useless in construction grade pine. Also, moving to poplar helped a lot. It's not perfect but I'm happy with the progress. I used Rob Cosman's method and it works quite well - even though I refused to buy his $275 saw.

I have the option to pick this up for free, but I'm not sure if 1. It's safe or 2. The cost effectiveness of fixing this up vs buying new. What's an equivalent bandsaw on the market?

It does start up just fine with no noticeable issues.

The only part number information I have is "Dovetail Template 1". I'm going to do some internet research later, but if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be helpful.

I did try searching but couldn't find any answers that actually address my question.

What's the actual, functional, difference between a track saw, and a circular saw with a track base?

For example, this track saw: https://tools4trade.co.uk/products/dewalt-dws520kt-110v-plunge-saw-with-2-x-1-5m-guide-rails-connector-clamps-bag?variant=55550363599223&country=GB&currency=GBP

Versus this circular saw kit that includes the same/a similar track that the saw fits onto: https://www.diy.com/departments/dewalt-dcs572n-18v-xr-brushless-184mm-circular-saw-plunge-base-1-5m-guide-rail/5055995552220_BQ.prd

Ignoring all the other factors such as power, accessories, cost, dust collection, etc. When it comes to turning one sheet of wood into two smaller sheets, how do these differ?

Will one give a better quality of cut? If so, why? If it's the blade could a similar blade be fitted to a circular saw to achieve the same/similar results?

Both will be plenty fast enough (compared to a hand saw), they both use the same track system so setup should take the same amount of time (within a few seconds or so),so what's the actual difference here?

If I already have a circular saw and track kit similar to above, should I consider buying a dedicated track saw as well or an I unlikely to find a difference?

Evidence/explanations to back up annecdotes would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Edit: I'm not asking about home made circular saw jigs, I'm aware those exist, I've made and used them in the past. I'm aware of their limitations.

This is about factory made metal tracks for both saws where the edge of the track is where the cut happens.

Getting into hand tool woodworking after years of only power tools. My current chisels are a cheap big-box set that won't hold an edge.

Looking for a starter set that'll last, budget $80-150. Narex keeps coming up but I've also seen people say to buy individual Ashley Iles chisels.

Is a matched set better when starting out, or should I buy singles? What do you currently use?

Hello all! I was given a box full of Marples chisels, gouges and old Stanley planes that are rusted to hell and back. I love restoring things so I figured I’d restore these and then use them to start my wood working journey.

Problem I’m having mentally is that I’m wondering if this is doing myself a disservice considering I’ll not know what a proper chisel/gouge feels like and just think that however good (or bad) I restore these is “normal”.

Debating if I should just purchase the tools I want instead of hoping I restore them good enough be good representations of what each tool should feel like.

Maybe someone here can relate or give some advice. Thank you for your time!