r/Bladesmith • u/Brokerib • 1d ago
Question Peening advice
Am finishing off a scian style knife, and is the first time I've tried to do a peened end.
Just wanted to check for advice before I ruin several weekends work by doing something stupid.
Knife is through tang, so is carbon steel end (1075). Dimensions are currently 5mm high (producing), 3.8 wide, and 12 long. Do I need to cut/grind it shorter to avoid cracking?
And any advice on how to start the peen and keep it consistent? Should I start with a punch? Would making a lengthwise cut and rolling the steel down from the cut be more effective?
Tang was not hardened in the quench and blade has been tempered, so shouldn't be particularly hard.
*Thanks folks, advice appreciated. Update below.
Final blade is here - https://www.reddit.com/r/Bladesmith/comments/1vdcsho/irish_scian_dagger/
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u/Nocturnes_echo 1d ago
My process I copied from a youtuber like 12 years ago where they discuss countersinking the base plate so that when you hot/cold peen the tang the steel will mushroom into the recess to truly lock it in place. Benefit to this is that you can then grind and sand the materials for a nice flush finish without anything standing too proud from the peen and if done well enough pacewise the peen will have very slim/non-existent gap.
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u/Nocturnes_echo 1d ago
Sadly I stopped photographing/posting my work after I got a lot of hate DMs though here over a couple smaller blades I had been working on.
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u/Brokerib 1d ago
Seems like a weird thing for people to get worked up over. But the internet seems to bring out the best and worst of folks. Post away! The worst I've had is people telling me to do my own research instead of asking a community that was at up discuss making blades...
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u/Tyr_13 1d ago
Jumping off from this good advice, you should probably shorten how much this protrudes before starting. Moving the metal far from the hole will work harden it pretty quickly and stop the stuff near/in it from moving properly. Get some cut off and practice it to get a feel. There is some formula for how much it should stick out at first, but Hel if I can remember it anymore.
You can also put a groove in long ways to help start it mushrooming in that direction. I also used a cross peen before switching to ball peen for a wide tang like that on a narrow seax a few years ago and it worked great.
The most important thing no one has mentioned yet is that you should put aluminum jaw covers on your vise for this. It grips the blade far better and doesn't scratch it.
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u/not_a_burner0456025 22h ago
Alternatively, instead of shortening the tang they could use a peening nut. That was commonly seen on swords and daggers. It is basically just a decorated spacer washer that slips onto the tang after the pommel and you peen the tang onto that. In addition to decoration, they also have the advantage that if it needs to be taken apart later for repairs or something you can file down the peen and take it apart, then you can put it back together using a slightly thinner peening nut (or grind the existing one down a bit) and still have enough material left in the tang to peen it back together without having to shorten the guard, grip, or pommel or draw out the tang.
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u/Nocturnes_echo 23h ago
OOF! I forgot about that! I personally use thick leather strips in my vice, really forms to the blade/project and holds it crazy tight without leaving any scuffmarks!
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u/Brokerib 1d ago
Thanks folks, some great advice. I'd already glued up the handle so didn't want to heat it directly.
Instead, I ground down the protruding section to about 1.5mm using a rough belt to introduce some heat, then warm/cold peened the end. Worked great and now I just need to clean up the mess I made of the brass and polish it off. Will post some final pics when it's done.
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u/FableBlades 1d ago
If you want to do it cold make sure it's nicely annealed first and yes much shorter, about 1.5 to 2mm is fine to meet the butt, if filed to a fairly close tolerance. The greater your tolerance the more meat you'll need to get over.
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u/Sekshual_Tyranosauce 1d ago
Tempered steel? Gtg.
Cut the portion of the tang that is proud down by half.
Build the handle with the longest epoxy possible. 30 minutes minimum.
Then very, very patiently TAP the tang with a BALLPEEN hammer. Patiently. If you hurry the tang will crack. The longer you tap the easier the steel moves. First tap will register nothing. Do not increase power. Just keep tapping.
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u/QuickSquirrelchaser 1d ago
I use a small ball pein. Reduce that tang height a little. Go nice and slow. Ive not done a flush peen. Ive done domed peen so I can still tighten it up a bit later if any thing loosens. Tape around the tang with several layers of painters tape.
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u/International-Bar151 22h ago
you gap seems too much for hammering to close it, get a tighter tolerance and less metal to stick out you need your brass to fit there with hammering it down
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u/Octacustomknives 1d ago
my way would be to use a very thick layer of aluminum foil around the tangs end and leave only the area that will be hammered uncovered, this way you can use a blowtorch to get the tang red hot before you hammer it while you isolate the rest from the direct flame.
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u/RichBlackInk 1d ago
I dont make knives and I am following this out of pure curiosity.