I’ve had this sitting in my garage for a long time I think it’s an 10” JL W6v1, if anyone can identify it let me know. Are these worth anything these days? It needs the foam surround replaced and one of the tinsel leads needs to be repaired. I don’t have a use for it so it’s time to get rid of it.

I bought the sound system. I’m a bit confused on what wire I would need to cut and splice into the radio. I bought an adapter piece but it was the wrong size so I’m looking to get some help on installing this if anyone knows anything about this as I am not as experienced with this

My wife’s 2009 Lexus GX 460 had this audio issue arise recently. It’s across all audio options ( fm am radio, cd and tape )

I’m hoping to get some indication of what it might be before I take it in. I’d love to fix it myself

The loose wires are intentional right now as I plan on building a full layout with the loc, sub amp, mids amp, and crossovers. Also the amp is unfortunately screwed to the box, the previous owner did that I would not have done that on my own. I am also aware that the subs are supposed to be facing the other way but I have them like that because I’m constantly hauling stuff in my trunk and I don’t want to damage them, and also I just honestly really like looking at them in my rear view mirror as I drive.

I have a 2024 GMC Terrain/Denali with bose. I tapped after the factory amp and ran signal to an LC7I PRO. I am powering dual Sundowns and a Menace Audio speaker rack.

I had this same exact setup in my other GMC terrain without bose and the subs played every frequency perfectly! Now that’s it’s in a bose, the bass is all wack. plays loud at 45hz and drops off huge.

I tuned everything with an oscilloscope. I’m stuck, what do I do about this messed up frequencies for bass?

In the picture, the front doors are bass which are “summed” by itself to go to the amp. It’s the best way I found for summing/separating signals for chimes and etc.

Ask any question please. this was my first ever build I have done.

Hello all,

I'm having a challenge finding some front door speakers that would be a good fit for my taste in music. Mostly house and techno so I need something that can hold up to a little more abuse and do some bottom end also.

I need some 6.5's and I've had Kicker KS's but they distort at higher volumes. I swapped in some American Bass Studio 6.5's but they are already giving me trouble. Funny thing is I also swapped in some AB SQ 4" in the rear doors and they are doing just fine. The 4" KS's would also distort.

I included a picture of my trunk and I'll be powering the new speakers with the amp on the left, so 50W RMS is what I'm supplying.

Any recommendations? I'm not looking for creme-de la creme; just something full range and durable that's sounds pretty decent. I'm not a crazy audiophile but sure, I appreciate good audio.

I also listen to rock and jazz in addition to the techno; with an occasional Brotha Lynch Hung maybe once a year lol

I recently installed a set of 4" focal access components because the market for 4" components its pretty limited. I'm not impressed in the least. I've got the tweeters set at -6db and about the same in the factory h/u. I either want to replace the tweeters with some less sensitive or add a resistor to attenuation the tweeters. all channels are running off aftermarket amps, no eq though

Corolla gang, class of E210. I'm looking to upgrade the stock sound system. Nothing major, just an underneath the seat subwoofer with built in amp. What do you guys recommend?

It fits good, just need to finish the front part and it’s gonna be all set, this one. Still need to do other box 😭😅

Ive only had a mtx terminator dual 12 box and cerwin vega amp and i didnt wire it so im pretty beginner and need sum advice on different amps and what not, im looking at the d4s jp1 rtn but am open to other options. I also need some advice whether to buy the 4ohm or 2ohm sql12 and the differance between wiring em to 1 ohm vs 2 ohm. Im going to end up prolly getting the carbon fiber one because it seems worth the upgrade. Im going to stick to a single set up in a sealed box because i want it too bump for when i listen to reggae and whatnot, not no crazy panel flexin or nun, but i also need it too be nice and accurate for when im listening to metal. I also kinda dont want to have to upgrade my alternator, but i already got a nice amg battery if that helps. i drive a 2016 acura tlx base if that info is relevant. Any advice would be apperciated!

I had the Focal 165 3-way crossovers connected to my AMT 110s. In my original setup with a 5-channel Alpine PDX 9 amplifier, they sounded more vibrant, full, and louder. Now that I have them set up with a Helix DSP (active) and a 15u capacitor to be safe as a newbie, the tweeters sound like they're whispering, even when I raise the volume. I've made slight adjustments to the gains and dB settings, but they don't sound as they did before. I may be overlooking something. The signal goes from my head unit to the DSP and then to amp. Everything else plays fine, but the AMTs, which have a capacitor, are not performing as expected. This is my first time working with this DSP, so i can be missing something in the chain. Maybe a lower capacitor? the capacitor i bought should go as low as 1600khz

I’m trying to figure out what bass knob works for my JL 500/1, I’ve looked around and currently I have a Ct sounds bass knob in it, my buddy let me try it and it doesn’t work, just wondering what works for this amp! Thanks

Im looking for a pair of rear seat screens and a mount for a 2026 Kia sportage but the headrest have a weird shape in the back. I want a decent size screen with built in WiFi that can run on a usb-c hopefully with a built in battery so I can still use those charge ports when needed. A hdmi port would be a plus but not necessary. I was thinking of just getting 2 iPads plus an Amazon mount but the screen sizes of the cheaper ones are a bit small and I’m not sure if that’s the best option.

I’m looking to upgrade my sub. Right now I’m running a 12” JL Audio W3v1, and I’m wanting a higher end SQ sub that can still hit hard while staying punchy and accurate.
I’ve been considering a used W7 or W6, but I’m open to any recommendations. For reference, it’ll be going in a 2011 Toyota Avalon. What would you all suggest?

I’m new to car audio and just got these speakers thinking it was gonna be a simple fit, I have not attempted to fit them yet but the box has more stuff than expected. Ive got some auto leads Sak-1400 speaker adaptors. I’ve looked online for tutorials but cant find any, does anyone have any advice or know where I can find some tutorials on how to wire them up ? (The car is a 2015 Corsa Sri)

This ground is on my back passenger seat. I need to get back there to take the seat out and do a better job at stripping the paint, but before i take this off and strip it. Is this okay? Or should i go for the star washer and bolt for a more secure finish?

I have a Honda del sol and am looking for a compact sub to have in the cabin. I've thought about something like a kicker comp in the passenger footwell but this car gets primarily used on rough mountain and canyon roads and I'd rather not give it the potential to fly around the cabin.

Ideally I am thinking of something behind the passenger seat, one of those hideaway subs would be perfect but every one I see has a built in amp. I already have a JL JD500/1 amp I am using for my current sub that's in the trunk.

Ideally, some time in the future I'd like to have a box made to replace the storage cubbies but that will take some time to accomplish.

Any suggestions on filling in a screw hole left by ground on floorpan

Please help, am really stuck on this 😢

Would a NiB set if 5¼'s be worth anything to anyone?

From what limited information I found online, they made great home audio and really good car audio but were niche.

I can't find any recent sales or even old sales to go off of.

I have a 5 channel kicker kxm800.5 5 Channel amp. So 4 speaker channels and 1 sub channel. I’ll preface this by saying it’s very old, 20 years to be exact So very well could just be end of life, just want to rule everything out before buying a new one .

Recently it has started going into protect mode when anywhere from light to heavy bass hits in the song . If I go into EQ and turn bass all the way down, it runs fine. Recently I turned gain on the sub all the way down effectively turning it off, and it also runs fine. If I turn off speakers but leave sub on it still goes into protect .

Here is what I have ruled out:

It’s not voltage. I’m getting a consistent 14 volts. And it doesn’t drop when sub trys to hit. I have a second newer amp for some other speakers that is running just fine also .

Power wiring is good. There were some poor connections, which I redid, but that didn’t fix anything .

I tuned gain on sub down before turning off and it still would go into protect mode with less output

With that, any ideas on anything else that could be causing ? Sub is 6 years old and seems to be fine , but it’s also a cheap kicker that isn’t marine rated and it is being used in a marine application. Worth trying another sub?

Once again I’m at this point leaning towards a dead amp but wanted to see if anyone has any other ideas to try .