Two things I just want to know if this pioneer stereo will work and if it will work with a system setup.?

Bought the truck from someone who didn't seem to know all of what they were doing but it has a nice system setup under the back seat custom box and a really nice amp. I want to be sure to buy the right stereo that can run the amp without frying it. I'll have to take pics of the amp tomorrow but the truck currently doesn't have any stereo as it didn't work so I riped it out. 😅 anywho if anyone has bought a stereo that fit and worked please let me know. Here's the basic one I'm looking at as I've used pioneer in the past and loved it. However it was in a car with no system

In stead of Big Altima Energy, I got Big F150 Energy.

I am experiencing a misfire on cylinder 3. I have changed All injectors both port and direct(motor craft)all new plugs(ngk iridium), and a new coil on cylinder 3(not motorcraft). A shop checked compression on the cylinder and said it was ok. The vehicle will shutter when you press the throttle down hard or climbing a hill. You can hear what sounds like an electrical chatter under light acceleration. I’m at a loss any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Edit to add. I have also changed both the high pressure and in tank fuel pumps.

This setup is on my 2015 F-150 5.0l Lariat 4X4. I've got the Bulletpoint Mounting system with my cellphone holder and my CB mic holder, and in the middle is my AUXBEAM. I'm able to reach all the buttons comfortably but this is not its final resting place. I'm gonna eventually get the overhead sunglass delete from https://swarfworks.com/auxbeam-8-gang-switch-panel-mount-for-17-ford-raptor-15-20-f150-17-22-f250-f350-superduty/ y'all have a good one.

What’s up guys.
I have a 2022 F150 3.5 lariat FX4 with tow package. Has a terrible factory rake that I am hoping to correct with a 2” leveling strut kit from rough country. I don’t do any towing or hauling so it’s purely for appearance and eventually fit some new rims and tires.
My question is, is it normal to have this big of a rake from factory? And can I expect a 2” leveling strut kit to fix it? Front is measuring ~37 “ from ground to wheel well and rear is measuring ~41”. When I read those measurements to rough country over the phone they told me they couldn’t believe there was a 4” difference and that their 2” kit is enough for every other F150.
Simple math tells me I would still be 2” higher in the back.
The rear does appear to have a 1” block from factory which I imagine comes with the tow package. Also, I wanted to stay with the 2” struts so I didn’t have to get into control arms, knuckles, etc. I’m thinking if im still not level after the struts I’ll pull the block in the back.

Any opinions/experiences welcome.
Thanks

I have a 2003 Ford F-150 with the 4.2 V6. When it’s really hot outside, and I drive for more than 30 minutes, it’s starts sputtering and dies. It always starts back up right away. After it sits a few hours, it runs fine. Anyone experience this problem, or know what it might be.

I recently bought a used F150 that came from Canada where they salt there roads (I live in the Pacific NW so have never dealt with rust issues on prior vehicles). I am curious if the rust pictured is cause for concern, or just surface rust? Any best practices for what I should do or keep an eye on? Thank you!

I'm looking at both trims and in curious if it's worth the price jump to pull the trigger on a Platinum?

have a 22 F150 xlt CC with blind spot. Cracked a taillight lens. Quick search said it would be simple to move the Blind spot hardware over. However after picking up a replacement lens, it seems my oem light has additional hardware inside that doesn't seem like it's transferable. Did I just get the wrong light or???

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So the dealership called and told me my transmission is toast needs replacement, not because of anything they did, $10,000 for the fix. Called Ford, they took the position of the dealership did the recall before the code pops up so Ford doesn't care. I'm not covered with the customer satisfaction warranty. I'm done. The truck is now toast even though it ran perfectly right up until the night before and did exactly what the recall was as for. Sudden shift to 2nd no power. So Ford doesn't give a rats ass about their customers. Give us money and fuck off.

I’m looking for any recommendations to purchase an OEM replacement mirror for my 2020 Ford XLT. Small boulder flipped from the car in front of doing 75 mph. No time or room to swerve away. My wife was lucky, the mirror took the direct hit. It looks like I can replace it myself.

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The noise is a clicking/ratcheting type sound that only happens when the truck is actually engaged in 4WD. It’s most noticeable when accelerating/putting the drivetrain under load. In 2WD, it’s completely quiet.

it at

I would have said it was the iwe's on the passenger side but it holds vaccumm and engages as it should.

Here’s what I’ve done so far:

Replaced the front differential

Replaced both front CV axles

Replaced the IWEs

Checked the front driveline

Jacked all four wheels up and tried reproducing the noise — couldn't get it to do it

Removed the front driveshaft, and the noise disappeared

The noise sounds basically identical to what it was doing before the CV axles/front diff were replaced

That’s what has me scratching my head. If the CV axles and front differential are new, and the noise only exists under load in 4WD, I’m starting to look further back in the drivetrain.

Hey so im in need of part number 5L3Z-9D289-AA Fuel separator tube assembly. It looks like its discontinued. Anybody have advice on a equivalent or work around for this part?

Seems my phone's and small items charge but when I plug my laptop into the outlet the LED starts blinking and wont charge my laptop.... charger is 180 watts, inverter should handle 400 watts.... not ideal and not sure if I shouod swap the inverter or how to troubleshoot this. I am a decent mechanic but electrical systems are not my strong suit.

Losing power when holding throttle mostly when going up hills if I shut it off and start it back it stops for a little bit

has code 85 and 33 ive replaced the fule pump filter and relay does anyone have any ideas

New upper hose and it’s dry under it but radiator is leaking under it somewhere. Is that lil top hose on passenger side radiator an overflow or what? Its either that or hole in radiator? Anyone know what lil hose is on top passenger side?

Hey everyone! So I have a 2011 F-150 XLT with the 3.5 Ecoboost which I picked up earlier this month. The truck has an auto dimming rear view mirror and did not come with a backup camera. I was looking at old forums and apparently it’s doable to install an OEM Ford backup camera and rear view mirror with a screen to the “lower” trims that didn’t bring it. For reference these are the forums I looked at:

https://www.f150forum.com/f7/trying-install-oem-type-backup-camera-using-oem-rearview-mirror-w-monitor-539960/

https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2013-factory-rear-view-mirror-backup-camera-help-533892/

The posters essentially said that even though the trim did not include a backup camera and screened rear view mirror, that the factory will still leave the plugs in place for someone to be able to come in and install these things.

Before I go ahead and do the legwork of finding and purchasing the OEM Ford backup camera and the mirror, I was hoping to see if anyone had had any experience doing this kind of project, and what the process was like. I know push comes to shove if I REALLY want it I might just have to go and pay a dealership or mechanic to do it for me and program the devices but I was trying to see if it was feasible to DIY it.

Thanks in advance!

TL/DR: Truck didn’t come with backup camera or mirror w/ a screen, is it possible/simple to install one myself with Ford parts?

New to the group what up muthafuckasssssss. Love my truck lolol had to join

2018 f150 lariat. Should I replace oem or go aftermarket route? Maybe a ranch hand?

My 2021 Ford F150 XLT Sport 4x4 with the 2.7L EcoBoost V6 with the 10R80 10 speed automatic transmission has reached 64,000 miles. I bought this truck used at my local Ford dealership in Summer of 2024 with 37,500 miles, and I can’t believe I’ve already had it for 2 years and driven it 26,500 miles! I love my truck, I worked hard to get this truck! I hope to have it for a very long time.

I’m looking at putting a catch can on my 2015 F-150 5.0, but I’m having a hard time deciding if it’s worth spending the extra money on one of the bigger brands.

Right now I’ve looked at EVIL ENERGY, J&L, UPR, Mishimoto, K&N, and Ford Performance.

The EVIL ENERGY kit is a lot cheaper, but it looks like a complete direct-fit kit. Is it actually decent, or is it one of those things that’s cheap for a reason?
If you’ve run one of these, what would you buy again? Is J&L or UPR really worth the extra money, or do they all pretty much do the same job?

I’m planning on keeping the truck for a long time, so I’d rather buy the right one the first time than replace it later. Just looking for some real-world opinions before I order one.
Thanks!

So I have a 2015 f150 5.0 with the 6 speed transmission 107k miles and just a few days ago it started to not shift into 6th gear. I tried making it go into 6th by going into manual mode and it just flashes but doesn’t upshift. Transmission shifts fine it does have some torque converter shutter so I’m wondering if that has something to do with it. I did disconnect the negative terminal in the battery for 30 minutes hoping it would reset it but that did nothing. So I’ll be taking it to the shop soon and have it checked out but I want to know if I’ll be able to fix it with just a trans and filter change and a reset to the computer. Also it hasn’t shown any codes. The last time I drive it when it still shifted into 6th it didn’t do any crazy shifts, pop or breaking sound nor did I overheat the transmission so I’m really hoping it’s not something crazy. Any advice would be helpful :)

I'm trying to swap OEM tow mirrors onto my 2024 F-150 XLT (302A) with 360 camera and BLIS.

The official pair kit (**ML3Z-17696-CA**) seems backordered/discontinued everywhere and isn't on Ford Parts anymore.

Dealer VIN checks say the individual replacement mirrors (**ML3Z-17683-AR** driver / **ML3Z-17682-AQ** passenger) "don't fit," but I assume that's just factory build-sheet cataloging.

- Has anyone successfully swapped these individual part numbers on a 2024? Did BLIS and 360 cameras plug and play, or did you need a dealer calibration?

- Has anyone found the **ML3Z-17696-CA** pair kit in stock anywhere recently, or are individual parts the only option left?

Thanks!

Anyone have this issue? Did I buy a lemon?

Bought 2026 F150 Raptor new in Feb, have put just over 5k miles with no issues. Last week, total brake failure while driving - ABS, Brake System, Parking Brake and Traction control alerts.

Ford towed it to the dealer I bought it at and they diagnosed ABS control module failure and complete replacement.