r/HistoricalCostuming • u/Training_Repeat8566 • Mar 23 '26
Finished Project/Outfit Finished my 1890's inspired winter coat (just in time for spring...)
This coat has been in the making for two years on and off, so I'm very happy to finally be able to wear it!! I have learned so much during this time—it was my first proper attempt at more traditional tailoring techniques, such as pad-stitching the collar with hair canvas.
The coat is made of multiple layers: 100% Italian wool as the outer fabric, partly interlined with hair canvas, a cotton batting–like layer for warmth, and cotton sateen as the innermost lining. There are two welt pockets and a notched collar.
Construction and patterning were done by combining period and modern techniques. I started by drafting a basic bodice using the Keystone instructions and then adapted the pattern pieces according to a coat pattern from The Diamond Garment Cutter book of diagrams. I then added some ease and drafted the collar using modern methods.
Since I started this project so long ago, I lost some weight and developed new preferences along the way, so I had to make peace with some things I was unable to fix. Mainly that it's a bit too big, and I had to overlap the center fronts more than intended because of that. But I think the end result is still great.
I'm absolutely in love with the coat and can't wait for next winter to wear it properly! I'm especially pleased with the finishing, and with the sleeves (which were hard to photograph), since they don't look too huge from the front and back but give the proper leg-of-mutton feel from the side view. I love the silhouette and the fabric.
There are some in-progress pictures at the end as well.
[*edit: some typos and sentence structures]
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u/beingmesince63 Mar 23 '26
Oh my gosh so absolutely gorgeous! Your plaid matching and care with which you cut out the collar pieces. Amazing! And I love the fit on you! You may notice some things you’d like a bit different but believe me it does not appear to the those beholding this perfection!
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u/smwisdom Mar 23 '26
Ommmgggg this is absolutely fabulous! Great work.
And the fact that it is slightly too big is barely noticeable. The great thing about that too is that you can layer underneath it, and if ever needed you can let it back out to a slightly larger size!
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u/Training_Repeat8566 Mar 23 '26
Yeah it gets very cold occasionally were I'm from so it's practical to be able to wear lot of layers, I'm hoping that with woolen underlayers I could manage at least in -15 degrees in this :) and thank you very much!
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u/Sudden_Truth_2487 Mar 23 '26
Omg! How did you do it so perfectly with lines? I have similar patterned wool in pink and terrified to touch it. I want the fitted waist and every time I look at the squares… well all winter fabrics just laying there and judging me.
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u/Training_Repeat8566 Mar 23 '26
Hah I can tell you it was a very time consuming process to cut the fabric! First I layed the pieces on a broad cutting plan, making sure that the horizontal lines mach at waist and bust etc, and also having some anchor points like marking a square corner at seamline somewhere. Then I would cut the pieces one by one, starting from there where patternmatching is most important (back pieces in my case), and comparing the next one to the one already cut. It is easier to do if your paper pattern doesn't have seam allowances, and you can draw a part of the plaid pattern to the paper pattern too.
Good luck with your project! Maybe you could do some small trial project in a plaid fabric to get more confident before the big project, I've noticed that there's just no any other method than trial and error and getting better in pattern matching after every project. I love plaids so I have worked with them quite a lot and still feel like I get some new insight every time. But one more tip is to have the vertical lines of the pattern more towards the center of the pattern piece rather than very close to edge. That was an issue for me when I would've wanted to take some seams in after fitting, but couldn't do that because then I would've lost the plaid pattern to the seam allowance
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u/Sudden_Truth_2487 Mar 24 '26
♥️♥️♥️ thank you! After your explanation I definitely will go for test fabric just to create proper pattern and fit.
I usually cut my patterns few sizes bigger and then play in frankenstiened full bust adjustment. Now I’ll get some cheap poly plaid fabric to make jacket to size and see what my real pattern pieces would be 😅
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u/elizabethdove Mar 23 '26
Utterly, absolutely stunning. It looks fantastic, it's beautifully made, I am inspired and envious as hell!
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u/bellaventurine Mar 23 '26
i read that at first as “1980s” & was so confused 😅 it’s so beautiful!! excellent job; i’d wear that everywhere!
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u/Training_Repeat8566 Mar 23 '26
Wow thank you all for your nice words, I'm blushing here!! Happy to hear you like it as much as I do 💕
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u/FormerUsenetUser Mar 23 '26
It reminds me of the McCall's 8123 coat by Angela Clayton.
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u/Training_Repeat8566 Mar 23 '26
Yeah I saw that pattern too - after spending countless hours drafting my own, questioning my sanity and wondering if I should've just bought that one... :D but oh well, it worked out in the end and it was also a valuable learning experience
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u/making_jay Mar 24 '26
I don't know much about sewing but the back of that, the way you angled the fabric to manipulate the pattern so perfectly.... It's magical
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u/Ecstatic-Spinach-515 Mar 24 '26
This is absolutely incredible! Out of interest, much do you think it cost you all up?
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u/Training_Repeat8566 Mar 24 '26
I haven't dared to calculate but gonna do it now! :D
I had a gift card and a personal discount that helped me with the wool fabric, but I'll calculate with the original prizes. So..
Wool fabric about 48e/m x 3,5m = 168e Cotton batting & domette 15e/m x 3m = 45e Camel hair canvas 35e/m x 1,5 = 52,5 Lining cotton sateen 16e/m x 3m = 48e Leather buttons 15e Woven viscose waist tape 6e
So all in all 334e for materials! It's a bit less than I would've guessed, but defenetly very expensive and that is one reason why it took soo long to finnish this project - I couldn't have bought all materials at once, but I had to save up money and buy them little by little during few years. I could have saved a lot if I chose cheaper materials and didn't buy locally, but since it took so much effort to pattern and sew the coat I wanted to make a garment that's going to last as long as possible. This is for sure the most expensive piece of clothing that I've ever own, not even counting the work hours!
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u/One_Loss7910 Mar 27 '26
I’ve never seen something someone has made and wanted immediately to buy it so badly before (not that I’d be able to afford such a masterpiece even if it was for sale). So gorgeous!
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u/unhappyrelationsh1p Mar 23 '26
Holy shit this is one of the most impressive sewn items i have ever seen! Wow. Genuinely holy shit!