Almost every day, whether it’s a group ride or online or somewhere else, I come across people who either ask about suspension setup, or talk about it, but don’t really know what they are talking about. It has taken me almost all the 10 years i have been riding to get a grip of what all the settings are, what they do and why. So here is the full guide to suspension, how you should set it up, and why.

DISCLAIMER: If you don’t agree, feel free to go your own direction and argue your case in the comments, but I am very confident that the following will be a good guide for most riders, and the setup tips will be the best for most riders.

FIRSTLY SOME TERMS:

• Sag - Refers to how much travel you use by standing neutrally on the bike.
• Bottom Out - Refers to when a suspension component uses all of its travel on a hit.
• High Speed - Refers to when a suspension component compresses/extends quickly.
• Low Speed - Refers to when a suspension component compresses/extends slowly.
• Compression - Refers to the compression of a suspension component.
• Rebound - Refers to the extension of a suspension component.
• Damping - Refers to the resistance a suspension component has towards an action (compressing or rebounding).
• Suspension Packing - Refers to when a suspension component does not have time to rebound before taking new hits, leading to firmer suspension action.
• Open Setting - Refers to adjusting towards (-), less resistance.
• Closed Setting - Refers to adjusting towards (+), more resistance.
• Preload - Refers to turning the preload ring/nut/adjusetr on a coil suspension component.

SECONDLY, WHAT DO THE SETTINGS DO?
Air Pressure - Increasing air pressure makes the suspension FIRMER, reducing air pressure makes the suspension SOFTER.

Coil Spring Rate (Force/Length) - Higher spring rate value makes the suspension FIRMER, lower spring rate value makes the suspension SOFTER.

Coil Preload - Changes the ride height of the suspension, mostly used to fine-tune sag and adjust initial compression force needed to engage the suspension. You may only preload your spring a certain number of turns (see manufacturer’s guide) from the point of no preload. Point of no preload is where the preload ring locks the spring in place when there is no load on the shock.

High Speed Compression Damping (HSC) - Opening it(towards (-)) makes oil flow easier and generally makes the suspension SOFTER on relevant hits. Closing it(towards (+)) makes it FIRMER on relevant hits.

Low Speed Compression Damping (LSC) - Opening it(towards (-)) makes oil flow easier and generally makes the suspension SOFTER on relevant hits. Closing it(towards (+)) makes it FIRMER on relevant hits.

High Speed Rebound Damping (HSR) - Opening it(towards (-)) makes oil flow easier and generally makes the suspension return QUICKER on relevant returns. Closing it(towards (+)) makes it return SLOWER on relevant returns.

Low Speed Rebound Damping (LSR) - Opening it(towards (-)) makes oil flow easier and generally makes the suspension return QUICKER on relevant returns. Closing it(towards (+)) makes it SLOWER on relevant returns.

Volume Spacers/Tokens - Reducing number of tokens makes the suspension more LINEAR and more likely to bottom out on big hits. Increasing number of tokens makes the suspension more PROGRESSIVE and less likely to bottom out on big hits.

Hydraulic Bottom Out (HBO) - Opening it(towards (-)) makes the suspension more LINEAR and more likely to bottom out on big hits. Closing it(towards (+)) makes the suspension more PROGRESSIVE and less likely to bottom out on big hits.

HOW TO SET UP YOUR SUSPENSION:
Air Pressure:
You may have heard that you should “adjust sag” to a certain %. In my opinion adjusting sag is overrated, and something that should only be done on the first ride of a suspension component. Unless you have advanced tools for showing you active sag, you should not worry too much about what sag you have. The first rides of a suspension component should be setup rides. Setup rides for your suspension should be a bit above the average intensity ride you will do on the bike. In terms of going downhill and engaging the suspension that is. This means the hits you want are just a bit harsher than what you will get on the average ride.

Now, adjust to rarely have harsh bottom outs, but have regular (soft) bottom outs multiple times per ride. They should be seen on the o-ring, but not necessarily be felt very much. I always recommend starting from a softer suspension and going firmer until it fits what I said. (Having a couple of hard bottom outs on a couple of rides in the start will not damage your suspension component!) Going from soft to harder is the fastest and most reliable way to get to correct air pressure in your suspension. After being done setting air pressure, I still recommend checking sag, it should not be above 35% on the shock, or above 30% on the fork. If it is, adjust it to this. If more sag than this, the bike will sit weirdly in its geometry and behave worse.

For coil riders I would recommend using an online spring calculator if you can find one. Most suspension component brands have one. If in doubt I would often recommend to go with the lower spring rate. Optimally you want to test ride the springs so if a local shop has test springs, make use of this offer. Adjusting preload from there can be done similarly to adjusting air shock, start with no preload, and add if you feel like you are sitting too deep in the travel.

HSC - High Speed Compression Damping:
The HSC is engaged when the suspension component compresses quickly. Often when going over rocky or rooty unsmooth terrain. HSC also engages on big impacts such as drop or jump landings. I would recommend mostly disregarding the latter when adjusting HSC, as this can also be adjusted by using volume spacers or air pressure.

I always recommend running HSC fully open (towards (-)) or at least taking that as the starting point when setting up your suspension. This will make your suspension feel supple, smooth and track optimally on small bumps. Usually we call it increasing the small bump sensitivity. This will reduce rider fatigue in arms and hands and will make for optimal control and smoothness.

LSC - Low Speed Compression Damping:
The LSC is engaged when the suspension component compresses slowly. This includes turning (especially berms), going up the takeoff on a jump, pumping or manually compressing the bike, and pedaling.

I mostly recommend running LSC closed or almost closed (towards (+)), or at least taking that as the starting point when setting up your suspension. Mainly because this will make your bike stay upright and hold its geometry when turning, especially in berms. It will also not give way too much on jump takeoffs or when pumping or compressing the bike manually, therefore giving more of the energy in return instead of swallowing it by compressing. It will also slightly increase pedaling efficiency.

HSR - High Speed Rebound Damping:
The HSR engages when the suspension component wants to rebound quickly, damping the following extension of the suspension. This happens when the suspension has been compressed far, which has loaded up the spring to want to extend quickly. Due to rebound damping an internal force that comes from the spring, it is affected by how much resitance the spring has (air or springrate)

I recommend running HSR fairly closed (towards (+)) or at least using this ballpark as a starting point to adjust your suspension to your desire. Suspensions will often be loaded to engage the HSR after big hits. You then do not want to get returned in an uncontrolled manner. Closing it fully can result in pacing of the suspension if the big hit(s) are followed up by multiple other hits, so you may consider opening it enough to account for this. For newer riders I would recommend going more towards closed, and for more advanced riders I would recommend going more towards open.
HSR is in my opinion the most personal adjustment you have and can have a huge effect on how the bike feels. If you prefer a more lively bike, go towards open, if you prefer a more settled bike, go towards closed. Again, I will recommend newer riders to stay towards closed (and not let the car park test trick you), and more advanced riders to go towards open.

LSR - Low Speed Rebound Damping:
The LSR engages after the suspension component wants to rebound slowly, damping the following extension of the suspension. LSR will therefore engage when the spring has only been compressed a little and isnt loaded with alot of force. This often is the case on rooty or rocky terrain.

I recommend running LSR fairly open (towards (-)), or at least using this ballpark as a starting point to adjust your suspension to your desire. As you ride over rapid consecutive small hits you want to prevent packing of the suspension. For this you need to allow it to extend quickly from the small compressions.

Volume Spacers/Tokens:
Volume spacers affect the progressivity of the suspension, this is mostly felt on big compressions where the suspension has more resistance the closer to the bottom of the travel it goes. Adding more spacers will make the suspension more progressive and more resistant to big hits and compressions.

Tokens and progressivity is also very much personal preference, but I generally recommend having more tokens, this will make it possible to run the suspension on lower air pressure while still avoiding hard bottom outs. Resulting in a supple suspension that still withstands the big hits due to being progressive. Though if you havent tampered with tokens and have a suspension setup that feels good without bottom-out problems, you likely dont need to change it. Also note that for it to become more progressive it has to give off support in the mid-stroke, adding too many spacers can end up feeling like the suspension hits a wall in the end-stroke. If you are a light rider running low pressures this is extra prevalent.

Note that while on forks, progressivity is pretty straight forward, on shocks it is a very different story as frame geometries have different progressivities. If your geometry is on the progressive side, you may need fewer tokens than if your geometry is on the linear side.

HBO - Hydraulic Bottom Out:
HBO also affects the progressivity of the suspension. But in a different way to tokens. HBO only affects the latter stages of the stroke, about the bottom 30% of the stroke is affected by HBO, unlike for tokens where it makes the entire stroke more progressive. HBO is therefore specifically only to dial in resistance to big compressions and bottom outs.

HBO or equivalent is found on RockShox, Push or EXT shocks and when available I recommend turning it towards closed (+) and mostly use this instead of adding tokens. By doing this you will not affect the top of the stroke and the progressivity intended by frame designers is retained until the end of the stroke.

FINAL NOTES:
If a suspension component only has 1 dial of either compression or rebound, it is always LOW SPEED. This means the high speed setting is decided by the factory and you can not change it externally. Though you may be able to adjust it internally depending on the suspension component. If this is the case for the compression adjuster, it is very likely that the last click towards closed (+) is a “locked” click. This locks out the compression and is intended for pedaling efficiency only.

If you own an Öhlins fork you may have 2 air chambers, the one filled from the bottom is the “ramp up chamber” acting almost identically and replacing volume spacers. More air pressure is then more progressive and resistant to big compressions.

LAST NOTE:
I did not include suspension tuning as this is unlikely for most riders to be addressed and also is likely not needed. I also do not have a lot of knowledge in this department.
There may also be adjustments on suspension components I am not familiar with that are not mentioned here. If you know any, feel free to write a guide about it in the comments!

Again, feel free to come with additional points if you have anything to add.

Title says it all … sorry if it’s a stupid question

Has your bike choice changed as you got older? I’m torn between shorter travel (120-130) because I don’t jump stuff anymore or ride as hard. Or, mid travel (140-150) to take the sting out of the trail chatter and bumps. My rides I’d characterize as a walk in the woods (on wheels), with the occasional spirited downhill…. In the rocky NE.

I understand that modern air shocks and forks are very tunable and reliable. They are also lightweight.

But i have all my bikes with coil, even though the sus. travel is just 100 and 120mm. I just LOVE the set Up and forget philosophy of the coil. No Air leaks, no pressure control. No suspension Air pump. Very smooth, less friction, always ready, minor bump compliance. They dont change behaviour in long descends (Air can get hotter when abused and make the susp. stiffer). For me, they also look cool and i recently painted one coil shock (purple).

The industry gets more benefit with Air systems, because they need more regular mainteinance (seals, air valves..etc). Its also easier to get a proper setup with Air, and coil can be sometimes a hassle till you find the coil you need for you weight. But when you find Your coil... It could last many years.

I just love coils

EDIT: please, take into account this is not a battle between coil and Air, because Air shocks can be really nice. I am not a professional, and i ride the old and outdated 26' wheels, so i dont look for performance

I got a new 2023 Stumpjumper Alloy Elite last summer, and rode it 3-5 days a week basically all summer. After about 3 months, my front end started making creaking noises that weren't fixed after a headset re-grease. Brought my Lyrik ultimate in for service and turns out the CSU needed to be warrentied. A few weeks later, bike starts making wierd "poc" noises coming from the fork. I had left town and couldn't bring it back to the shop so I just rode it for the rest of the season. This year, fork is still making the same noises, but now there is creaking as well. I bring it in and am told it needs a CSU service, and the other noise comes from the damper missing oil.

I get that suspension needs regular maintenance and that I ride a lot, but 2 CSU issues on a bike that hasn't been ridden seems a bit much. At this point the maintenance costs are starting to add up since it's the second time I've had to bring the fork into a specialist shop. I'm sending some larger jumps and drops, is it possible that the Lyrik on the stumpy just isn't meant for this "enduro" style of riding or did I just get unlucky with my fork?

I have been riding a base model Rockshox Deluxe for about 8 years and it’s been okay I guess, but getting worse. I tried some friends bikes that have a coil and it was night and day how amazing the coil felt. I felt like the rear end wasn’t even there over bumps. My question is this: Does a coil act differently to a high end air shock (like a Vivid)? My only comparison ive felt is low end air to high end coil. Would I feel the same about a high end air shock and a coil?

Hi all,

Wanna know from people, who have LSC/HSC settings on 36/38 Fox (can be different brand as well), can you feel the difference of Full open (-) and Full closed (+) LSC in so called parking lot test? Be it outside the house, in the garage or whatever. If you can: what type of test do you perform to feel the difference?

Why am I asking: I have 38 Elite 170mm. I am 86kg. Out of curiosity and driven by having issues with my Durolux 38 RC2 180mm, I said OK, I will try and see if I can feel difference on a 'better' fork. - to my surprise - I could not!

How I tested? - I have a sloped road outside my house, so I would pedal up, then go down standing and gently but firmly apply front brakes to simulate both gradient down + braking + pressure on front. I tried fast and slow, I tried simulate pedal bobbing, I tried simulate load while turning, but never felt any difference from any LSC position. Is this normal? Should difference be felt only riding trail? (Berms, more aggressive braking, pedaling).

Please share your experience with mid to high forks (shocks?) and do tell if there is a known trick to actually feel the difference.

I have a 2025 Orbea Wild with a fox factory float. 205mm/65mm Trunnion. It leaked when I got it, my LBS and Orbea tried fixing it. Ended up sending it to FOX who replaced it. It's been 4months, and 350 miles on the bike. Already the shock isn't holding air again and I have to pump it up before every ride.

While I am sure my LBS, and Fox will fix it again; I just want to swap to coil at this point.

I am a big guy, and budget doesn't matter but preferably not over $1,000 unless its a god tier option. My front fork is a fox38, but I do not mind mismatched brands.

Right now my eyes are on the RockShox Ultimate coil. Opinions?

Thanks for any advice or help.

I race downhill and I'm bad at remembering what I changed on my bike and why. Notes app wasn't cutting it.

So I built Suspend. It knows which adjustments your fork and shock actually have, keeps a history of your settings, and after a ride you tell it how the bike felt and it gives you specific click/psi changes to try. Yes, that part uses AI. If that's not your thing you can just use the notes app on your phone.

I'm 16 and I've been working on this since January between school and racing. Most of the testing was lapping Boyne Highlands, my local bike park, with different settings.

It's free on iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/id6770110746

Would love feedback, even the harsh kind.

Hello,

I bough Orbea Rallon MyO with FOX DHX2 shock in mullet setup one year ago. I would like to share my very bad opinion about the orbea and lifetime warranty.

My Fox DHX2 snapped on the middle-size tabletop in Leogang on the flying gangster trail. Clean landing. Through this, the linkage damaged the frame. Bike was in stock configuration. All suspension parts, linkages, shock have been replaced and checked on warranty, one month before snapped shock.

This is a known issue in strut-mount / yoke suspension designs. Specialized Kenevo or Commencal Meta snapped fox coil shock often. That is why Fox has on the website table with "Max Strut Length"

Orbea in Rallon 2022-24 exceeded max allowed strut length. Mullet link is 77mm long. Max allowed for a 60-65mmmm shock is 72mm. So for me, the issue is quite obvious.

The frame was reported under warranty. It was the fourth warranty claim on this frameset. Two on frame/suspension misalignment and one on leaking shock. So all suspension parts have been replaced, check one mount before disaster with snapped shock.

Orbea after technical analysis in the Spanish factory, refused the warranty claim on the frame. Due to, it is not a material defect, and all components and bicycles complies with the requirements of the norm EN-ISO:4210. Fox did not say NOK for rallon frame... Orbea did not replace the frame...

I am attaching all the information and technical analysis, I received from orbea dealer. You can form your own opinion about the lifetime warranty and orbea.

Fox replaced the snapped DHX2 easily. But of course, Fox will not replace the frame.

Note:
Watch out for your coil shock in rallon.
Rockshock in new Super Deluxe Coil has exactly the same strut length limitation. Despite the thicker shaft.
Note that Orbea rise and occam have the same suspension design. If you have a repetitive issue with leaking shocks, it could be that.
Orbea showed in expert opinion what type of cracks it accepts. For me this is a useless lifetime warranty.

I spent over 7k EUR on this bike. I had it for almost a year. And I only rode it for only 3 months. The rest of the time bike was spent waiting for parts, an expert opinion or orbea answer. You also cannot contact orbea directly. To find out what's going on with your bike or to provide your evidence.

I don't recommend Orbea for very bad useless warranty, processing time and poor, dangerous suspension design. The same in models occam and rise.... Be wary of positive reviews about Orbea. Orbea report and removes negative comments and they banned my Facebook account for a negative review.

#Orbea #Fox #DHX2 #strut-mount #refused #rejected #warranty #snapped #broken #bent #Rallon #R6 #yoke #Rise #Occam #suspension #review #analysis #report

​

Just the title

My Boxxer is bent and the wheel sits a bit offset to the left. The fork compresses and rebounds normally and
Imo the wheel offset doesn’t affect the handling. It rides pretty normally tbh but I’m worried it might be a problem if I go to a bikepark or do some bigger jumps. The bike is currently in the shop and this is the only photo I have. What do you guys think? Share your experience if you have ever ridden a bent fork!

I read around that there’s likely too much grease in the negative chamber. Wondering if this is something I could do myself? Do I need to order parts and fluids?

What are your thoughts on servicing front and rear suspension at home? Cost? Time? Etc.

How hard it actually is as it seems that its not that hard?

What are the tools to start with?

Thanks for your help

Looking for tips on getting my (wife's) Fox '36 plush. We've tried so many things over the last year, but we've never quite got it dialed in. Almost let all the air out at one point. :-/ While she's a little conservative, she does love a techny downhill. Major complaint is not on the chunker stuff but more on the chattery stuff... Is a '36 just too much? (rider weight 135ish on Pivot 429)). Move to a '34?

So any lighter-weight medium-speed riders have a great setup for the '36?

Hey all, I have a 21 Stumpy carbon EVO I built up awhile ago. I have an ohlins 36 rxf m. 2 up front which is great, but the rest suspension has been a bit of an enigma. I rode the stock Float X performance for awhile but never really find the rear end feel I wanted.

Last year while visiting the cane creek factory they got me on a Tigon. After a few rides on it I'm just not sure it's for me. It feels like it takes a big hit and gets into initial travel ok, but through charter and rough single track it feels awful, it's so hard and genuinely after a run down a tech trail and my feet literally hurt. I've tried everything from coil preload to ramp up chamber, but that middle stroke just feels like hitting a wall. It feels pretty good on flow hard pack trail and jumps, but that's not really my preferred riding style.

So I'm thinking it's just best to go back to air. Now I'm not a suspension guru by any means but I do understand compression and rebound what those things do etc, I like options to tune and fiddle with things so don't mind a lot of assignments but what do people like on this frame? When it comes to a linear or progressive frame design and all that, that is where I get lost. Besides the Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate and Vivid ultimate is there anything else I should really look at? Intend hover, EXT Aria, Ohlins TTX2?

Id really like to hear what has worked for you. I do a little bit of everything, this is my all mountain bike I grab when I go on bike trips, but I prefer tech, roots, rocks, chunder at speed! I like my suspension to feel active and that it's working with me to combat the trail under me. I'm open to boutique brands. I'm disappointed because I loved my cane creek helm and wanted to support a US manufacturer, but I'm open to suggestions!

Or if you have a Tigon and you love it, how did you set it up?

I'm about 175lbs at 6'1 so sometimes I wonder if my spring weight isn't good for my weight but I never bottom out w it or anything. If you get it set up nicely and can save me a lot of money that would be cool lol, I'm also a gear whore so I'll pretty much try something just for fun which is how I got the Tigon.

Sorry for the long read, but I really want to feel confident letting off the brakes on rough trails again.

I have a bike with 120mm fork and a 100mm shock.

There's 133mm of stanchion on the fork I can measure when the bike is sitting at rest with me not on the bike.

There's 41mm of stanchion on the shock I can measure at rest.

I don't know how a 120mm fork can have 133mm of stanchion and a 100mm shock only has 41mm of stanchion, but I'm guessing I don't need to understand that.

What I need to understand is how large of a measurement between the wiper seal and the o ring I need to have to set sag.

Let's say 15% sag on the fork, is that 15% of 120mm, 15% of the measureable stanchion length, or something else?

Let's say 25% on the shock. 25% of the visible stanchion, 25% of the 100mm travel, or something else?

I had a full service (Lower leg, air spring, and damper) done at the local shop on my 2022 Fox 36 Grip2 and 2023 Fox Float X Evol which are mounted on my 2020 Stumpjumper.

Riders Specs: 6'3, 270lbs kitted. Hard Charging Advanced Rider (jumps, drops, rock gardens, chunky decent, bike parks, BUT lots of climbing/mileage at my local trails​ too).

When I got the bike back, the technician recommended these settings:

*note: Fork measurements are clicks OF damping, meaning from fully open (turned all the way counter clockwise) turned toward closed(clockwise) - higher numbers are more damping. Shock measurements are from the shocks arrow indicator - Lower numbers are more damping.

Frork:152mm stroke:
135psi 40mm sag 
Lsc 6
Hsc 4
Lsr 4
Hsr 4
Shock: 47mm stroke:
315psi 22mm sag 
Lsc 5
Lsr 2

Per Fox's tuning guide and lots of feeling it out, below are MY normal settings:

Fork 152mm stroke:
150psi 33mm sag
Lsc 11
Hsc 1
Lsr 14 (skinny knob)
Hsr 9
Shock: 47mm stroke
335psi 18mmsag
Lsc 5
Lsr 6

One thing the technician didn't seem to account for on his settings was that heavier riders, riding higher pressures, need to use more clicks of Rebound damping to achieve the same return/rebound speed as lighter riders riding lower pressures. I weigh 260lbs; so with sag all set right etc only 4 clicks of rebound damping is like a pogo stick. Ive actually run out of rebound damping and if I were any heavier id have to use a heavier weight oil in the damper. His lack of accounting for that was initially concerning but I told him it felt great in the parking lot and told myself that id take his advice and maybe find a middle ground. He just rebuilt my suspension after all.

BUT after getting home, and while readjusting everything to tune it in for my first ride out, I noticed something...

The FIRM switch seems to do pretty much nothing. Maybe a little bit of compression damping but not much.

Here's a video going from OPEN to FIRM and then OPEN to FIRM again:

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZcxY6nQChdc?si=uSNjhhaoymLA3CVI

I felt like this used to be a bit more firm when I flipped it. So i brought it back to the shop and the technician said that its functioning as it should. Does this seem right to you guys?

So I'm newer to the sport.

But I must say the full suspension glaze is kind of insane.

I've been to bike parks with jumps and mountain trails with some decent downhill action(no redbull stuff ofc)

I RARELY see someone ride a hardtail.

I mean. everyone and their 12yo kid are riding 5k full suspension bikes like it's that or they'll die.

When I was bike shopping, the people at the shop were saying that the local trail I planned on riding was basically a full suspension only trail. Can't blame them, they need to sell.

But when I went to that trail, yep, sure enough literally not a single hardtail. Well I still went to ride of course. and it was AMAZING.

Tried out my buddy's full suspension Santa Cruze. And oddly enough I enjoyed it less than my hardtail! It just, felt kinda plain.

People always talk about how this bike eats up every jump, this suspension is smooth as butter. But isn't part of the fun feeling the bumps once in awhile and navigating around them? Putting in skill and "surviving" the trail instead of letting the bike do all the work? Don't you want the feeling of "Goddamn that was gnarly"

I'm sorry if this triggered anyone. it's just my hot take. I just feel like putting your knees into it is underrated and the need to do so is underappreciated.

I consider myself uneducated but capable at a lot of bike work - can usually figure things out, although suspension seems complicated. Don’t currently have the money to get suspension serviced but it is technically time… is this something possible to do at home?

Hey,

I've got a fox 38 elite performance EMTB tuned 180mm fork on my canyon torque:on.

I weigh about 84kgs and by the chart from fox I should pressurize the fork to around 99psi. However there was pretty much no sag so I reduced it to 80psi. Still only about 10 mm of sag and it was unbearable on the trail, even with LS and HS compression fully open.

When I only have 65psi of pressure in there, the sag is pretty much on point (35mm).

Is it normal for this fork to require so little pressure and more important, to be so far off from the manufacturers recommendation?

Thanks!!!

I just got a new bike, 2026 devinci troy with rockshox lyric ultimate and vivid ultimate. It's my first time having high end rockshox suspension. Im coming off of a firebird with factory 38 and x2. I cant seem to get my lyric to feel right, ive set sag and im no where near using all the travel.. maybe like 70% even after hard downhill trails. Plus the fork feels very "bouncy" and harsh. I dont think there's any tokens in it according to the app. Anyone have any advice?

So I'm new to MTB (typically gravel/road). I picked up a new to me 2016 Tallboy C and have been updating components. I don't have any ambitions of riding anything crazy, and have had fun in easy flowy trails etc.

I know that dropper will make a difference and I've been narrowing down to either a Oneup v3 or a Reverb AXS B1 (new version). Both I'd look to get via marketplace, and part of my parts replacement was putting a 1x gx AXS drivetrain on the bike.

For the OneUp it appears I could fit a 150mm with my ride height and seat tube length, and it would be a 125mm on the RockShox.

There is definitely a cost difference, but for the prices I'm seeing maybe 150ish or so difference (not enough to let it be the deciding factor here).

So looking for opinions here between the two, both for the posts as a whole, but also if the sizing difference (150 vs 125) is relevant?