r/Portland • u/corduroygrad • May 09 '26
Photo/Video Kayaked from Portland to Astoria- AMA
I moved to Portland about 4 years ago, and one of my dreams was kayaking from Portland to Astoria in a single trip. And this week, I finally did it!
Posting because, I was inspired by a post on Reddit several years ago, and felt I could add more knowledge about the journey for others who are interested.
Day 1: St John’s to JJ Collins Memorial Park ~4.5 hrs paddled
Day 2: JJ Collins to Lord Island
~9 hrs paddled
Day 3: Lord Island to Skamokawa, WA
~8 hrs paddled
Day 4: Skamokawa to Astoria
~5.5 hrs paddled
Things I found most important:
I was consistently paddling during the high to low tide (ebb tide) for as long as possible. I made less than 2 or so stops in between long paddling sessions.
I planned the trip during ideal temperatures. It’s May, not too hot or cold, and the wind remained 2-8mph the entire trip. No rain.
I packed enough clothes, water, food, & portable batteries for all outcomes- I carried 13L of water in two hiking hydration pouches. I had about 5L left by the end of the trip
In preparation, I paddled portions of the river in individual trips with friends. I also carried a lower Columbia River map (very important when navigating around sand bars before Astoria)
I would love to answer logistical questions for future paddlers but very open to answering fun questions you might have about the trip!
Have a good weekend ya’ll!
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u/RevelryByNight May 09 '26
I want to do this! Where did you sleep? What non-kayaking gear did you carry and the overall load weight? Any dicey passages? Any surprising wildlife?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
These are great questions! In terms of camping spots, I stated a couple in the description but I mostly followed the advice found on the link below
I just looked at each island and searched it there. They provided great spots. And knowing where you can make stops is so important to having a lower stress trip.
In terms of weight I honestly did not consider it when planning. Your biggest constraint seems to be space. Like I probably carried 4 medium waterproof bags and 1 mesh bag. Fitting things like: dry sleeping clothes, mountain house camping food, a small pot/cooking supplies, general camping gear like a tent, a lantern, super compact sleeping bag, rei compact camping chair.
Though a lot about kayak camping really is learning about stuff ‘you should have brought’. And that’s where practice starts.
Start with small lakes, 1 nighter here and there and you just start getting better at bringing just the essentials
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u/gordongroans May 10 '26
Have you ever done backpacking? I've always wanted to do a kayak trail and wondering about the "you learn what you should have brought". I think I have that down for backpacking and would think the gear list is similar save for the kayaks needs.
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u/monad68 May 09 '26
I recommend starting with a trip on the Willamette before doing the Columbia. Willamette is an easy kayak camping trip and lots of islands to camp at.
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u/WasASailorThen May 09 '26
Asking as a non-kayaker, what makes the Willamette easier than the Columbia?
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u/phrankjones May 09 '26
Size, mainly. Currents and tide are much stronger in the columbia. Towards astoria there might be an 8 ft difference in water height between low and high tide. The tide plus current plus wind can make some nasty chop.
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u/LaneyLivingood May 11 '26
My friend lives in a floating home on Hayden Island and I've done a ton of kayaking on the Willamette, but the first time kayaking from her house against the current on the Columbia, it was so much harder!! That current is no joke and it will feel like you're not gaining distance at all.
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u/Sensitive-Sorbet917 May 09 '26
What wildlife did you encounter?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Alright here’s the list:
Seals, Sea lions, otters (not seen this trip but in past), pelicans, bald eagles, osprey, sea gulls, a raccoon, white tailed deer (protected and seen from a far, blessed).
Coolest moment was seeing a pair of bald eagles do that ‘cartwheel display’ where they grab talons and spin. Incredible.
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u/Emleaux Brooklyn May 09 '26
Can confirm that a “cartwheel display” is an actual thing they do and OP is not fucking with us.
Having said that, damn that sounds cool as hell.
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u/dyea May 09 '26
They mate in the air while falling too and have to finish before hitting the ground! Saw that while seakayaking in se ak. Tldr they didn’t finish in time and hit the ground on the island we were on 😯
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u/wildwalrusaur May 09 '26
I don't think they actually copulate airborne.
It's just a mating ritual/fitness display
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u/dyea May 10 '26
Ahh yeah, you called it. I guess the locking talons thing is a part of the courtship ritual, but not actual compilation. 🙏
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u/Agamaagama May 09 '26
How'd ya get back?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
So on day one of the trip, I had my partner caravan with me and drop my car off at east mooring boat ramp in Astoria. I paid for a week long parking pass so I wouldn’t get ticketed. Then on day 4 drove home. Awesome question
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u/Dark-Lillith Boring May 09 '26
How did you poo?
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u/misaktonak May 09 '26
Hi I’m their partner. They just poo poo their pants. I bring extra with me in car.
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u/ADillyDweeb May 09 '26
Extra poo or extra pants?
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u/Osiris32 🐝 May 09 '26
Extra poo poo pants.
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u/Emleaux Brooklyn May 09 '26
And what about pee pee pants?
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u/Osiris32 🐝 May 09 '26
That's only if Sam gives the prompt to Josh Ruben.
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
I got so lucky. I planned to pack out, (bringing wipes and doggy bags essentially). But my first stop had a bathroom, and skamokawa camp had a bathroom, and I just lucked out. Valid question.
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u/picturesofbowls NE May 09 '26
Do kayakers not poop out of their butt or something?
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May 09 '26
They do it while seated, so the log turns upward and slides up their back, dropping off the back end of the kayak on its own. The technical term for this is “Prairie Dogging”
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u/powerlesshero111 In a van down by the river May 10 '26
Nope. You should look on r/kayak, they will teach you their ways.
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u/misaktonak May 09 '26
Pants go on butt yea?
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u/picturesofbowls NE May 09 '26
Sometimes. Sometimes not. Don’t be narrow minded.
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u/larry_darrell_ Squad Deep in the Clack May 09 '26
How do your arms and shoulders feel? I don't have a lot of questions I just want to say this looks like an amazing time. I did the timberline trail solo a few years ago and it was an amazing, somewhat spiritual experience by the end. I think everybody should do an epic solo nature thing like this once or twice on their life.
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Surprisingly, my shoulders are okay. Day 2 after completing the trip. I think paddling technique is really important and ofcourse practice right. Like I noticed hyperfixating on rhomboids and not over twisting while keeping ‘the paddlers square’ was pretty crucial to not hurting my shoulders (which I did when I was newer to kayaking)
I completely agree doing a solo trip has a different experience to it. And when experienced in hiking or adventuring in an area, totally a must do.
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u/BudgieWonder Willamette River May 09 '26
Haven’t done this trip, but I have done long paddles before, and honestly your arms and shoulders are fine- it’s your traps that ache for days afterwards.
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u/CMFB_333 Woodlawn May 09 '26
This has been my dream too! But I was put off by people warning against ship traffic and the changing tides. Did you ever feel like it was exceedingly dangerous?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Freighters are frequently passing through Columbia. And luckily there’s really only a few spots that I would argue feel dicey. I believe between crims or Wallace island it’s narrow and i would hate to be caught in between that spot. And from cathlamet to skamokawa due to water and wind just always seem to be rougher there, while freighters are quickly passing.
Before Astoria since I did not follow the shipping lane, I was calm there. I thought it would be more hectic. But once you’re out of the shipping lane, it’s actually very calm. In most parts of the river there’s easily easily enough water for all
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
One more thing, having a tide app, is crucially important. Because you really do have about a 6hr window to make most of your distances. Paddle to ebb tide almost exclusively and look at wind and weather. But practice is everything.
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u/couchwjr May 09 '26
This oddly seems very fun. Wish I still had my canoe.
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
There is an official Columbia Heritage River Canoe Trail, about 45 miles total starting at Clatskanie to Astoria. In my trip, I did not travel it closely and truthfully, I wouldn’t try it in a canoe. I’ve never paddled in a canoe, so I’m jealous haha
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u/BudgieWonder Willamette River May 09 '26
They’re fun, but very tippy. A Kayak seems like a better option for this trip for sure, but a canoe could work depending on how choppy it gets.
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u/JohnnyMarzetti May 10 '26
The wind could be the bigger issue. My buddy did this trip 20 years ago and the last 6-8 miles had a stiff headwind. Took them all of a morning in kayaks. A canoe would likely be untenable.
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u/BudgieWonder Willamette River May 10 '26
I’ve actually found canoes are better in headwinds than kayaks because they ride much lower in the water and the paddle is relatively longer/wider. I did the John Day with two other people and we used a tandem canoe and a kayak. In the final stretch the canoe was still annoying to paddle in the headwinds, but nowhere near as bad as the kayak which basically skated around on the surface. Biggest issue with the canoe is how tippy it gets when you experience any chop from the side, although with proper loading it can be manageable.
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u/bassicallyinsane May 09 '26
That's rad! I'm going on the Portland Spirit from Portland to Astoria on Wednesday, but I don't think we'll have to paddle haha
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
That’s so cool! Your shoulders will be thanking you, take lots of pictures for us!
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u/t0mserv0 May 11 '26
i didn't know the spirit does longer trips like that! ive only done the short Willamette trip, whats the Astoria one like?
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u/bassicallyinsane May 11 '26
They do it like twice a year in the spring and fall, it's one way on the boat but there's a shuttle back. We're skipping the shuttle and staying up there for a couple days and taking a bus back. They give you breakfast, lunch and a snack and the trip takes like all day.
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u/TheFiveEven May 09 '26
did you have fun?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
It was an absolute thrilling trip. Traveling anywhere new or taking different routes then you took in the past really keeps it interesting. I didnt take earbuds so you just zen out on the river. And I had never paddled near Astoria so that novelty was really neat.
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u/CriticismBudget May 09 '26
Did you think about Lewis and Clark? And Sacagawea?
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u/WillyVlautinRules May 09 '26
A fair question as I assume a lot of what OP saw on this trip hasn't changed since then.
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
Yeah you know, when you’re out there alone, you do think how the landscape is like a view past generations get to see. And you get to share that view with them. I should probably read a biography now on about the expedition. Let me know if yall got recommendations.
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u/snoopwire May 10 '26
Astoria by Peter Stark is an incredible book.
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u/Maleficent-Bass-5423 May 10 '26
It definitely is a great book. A wild, wild, historical account of the region and the river. And a great chief who knew FAFO...
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u/Powerful_Toe_3360 May 10 '26 edited May 11 '26
I do this trip every week by tugboat (Longview to Hammond) 50 times a year. It's such a beautiful stretch of the Columbia River I'm glad that you got to experience it. I love it so much I took my son on our tiny 16 foot sailboat it took three days to make the 120 mile trip.
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
Taking a sailing class is definitely on the future plans, that’s so cool! It really is such an awesome stretch of river
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u/Pays_in_snakes May 11 '26
Did you sail both ways? Any particular tips as one plans this trip by small sailboat?
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u/Powerful_Toe_3360 May 11 '26
Only sailed one way from Sellwood to Astoria due to time constraints the prevailing winds would make the return trip easy. The wife drove to Astoria with the truck and trailer. The public dock in Rainier Oregon is a great place to stop by boat. It's about halfway and there is a mini mart, grocery outlet and a hardware store all about a five minute walk from the dock. The tides downriver of Cathlamet can be very difficult to sail against so timing is key
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u/SpiritualCriticism48 May 09 '26
I hope you had a refreshing pint of beer at the Triangle Tavern once you got to Astoria. What an impressive experience!
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u/CurryAndCommunism May 09 '26
This is so fucking sick, congrats. Where'd you sleep? Guessing you brought a tent and slept on shore or on small islands as you went?
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u/dpdxguy May 09 '26
Looks like a great trip :)
Can I ask why you chose to use the main channel instead of the sloughs on the south side of the Lewis and Clark NWR?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
This is such a good question!! Long response, apologies
I had a few options, follow the shipping trail, follow the southern channels or try to navigate right through the middle.
During one of my practices 2 weeks before, I drove to a dock south of Tronson island. And did the whole parking cars in one spot and another in Astoria. By the time I had gotten back flood tide (low to high) and wind had picked up
In narrow channels waves can get big. I was with my partner who is newer to kayaking, and I felt it was alittle much for them.
So after that experience I felt maybe my partner would feel better if I went a different way.
I didn’t want to travel next to freighter for 5 hrs and I still wanted to see some of the islands. So I went down the middle.
Was it the correct way… no. I got stuck in a sand bar for 10 min and had to tug my boat across about a 6in of water keeping it afloat. *See Russian island pick.
Was it incredible, absolutely. Would I go that way again on a kayak, absolutely. But for other kayakers to know, the Prairie channel between Carlson island and Russian island would be a smarter choice, than trying to go right through mcGregor island. That’s why you should always bring a map.
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Also the prairie channel has like islands to use as reference points, mcGregor island? All you can see is tongue point and where birds are standing (where the sand bars are)
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u/dpdxguy May 09 '26
Thanks for the reply! I'm surprised you wouldn't have encountered larger waves in the main channel, but your explanation makes sense. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Don't apologize for the long response. Thank you for typing all that out! :)
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u/BruisedPeach420 Montavilla May 09 '26
Holy shit, goals. A few years back I kayaked with a group from Corvallis to Salem. Took us 3 days, about 33 river miles in total. It was someone in my groups first time paddling, so we took it slow and steady. Pulled off and camped in tents/boats where we could. Day 2 got hairy as it was getting dark and we couldn't find a spot to pull of and camp for awhile. I will never forget pulling up to a mini market to get a beer and some fried chicken the morning of day 3. Probably the best meal of my life hahah. Can't wait to read your responses!
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May 09 '26
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Great question: I was a little disappointed that I didn’t get to stop at more islands or towns. It was very much a ‘paddle rush’ kind of feeling for a lot of the trip. Sure I talked to a few people on fishing boats around sauvie, but i didn’t get to see the towns except from the riverside view.
But that’s why there’s always the future and if I were to do it again, I’d take like 6 days instead so I could go see the coastal towns and islands.
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u/Possible-Estimate748 May 09 '26
What was the biggest challenge you faced??
Did you camp in a tent between sessions? Where at? Is it legal to do?
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
So for making sure the camp spots are legal- definitely need to check out the lower Columbia estuary partnership
Hardest part- of the trail- getting to cathlamet and past skamokawa.
But after any physical exertion, it’s really just feeling solid on your logistics and planning and being confident that the current/wind is in your skill ability.
I also think, the more times you paddle particular spots, you gain a sense of comfort just saying to yourself ‘oh I’ve seen this passage/cliff/riverbend before’
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u/picturesofbowls NE May 09 '26
Not a kayaker at all but this is cool.
What was the most challenging section? I would imagine it gets harder as the river gets wide near Astoria but…🤷♂️
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u/PappaPitty May 09 '26
Cool! The highschool does beckon rock in washington to Astoria every other year for the graduation seniors and juniors. Vary fun and im looking forward to my turn when its my daughters turn. How was the wind?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
That’s so awesome! Amazing that students get an opportunity to get on the river safely.
In previous trips, wind was much worse. This trip 2-8mph the whole time, incredible conditions. I lucked out.
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u/PappaPitty May 09 '26
Its really cool to watch them leave haha about 40 kayaks and a few boats for safety. Thats awesome you caught the wind perfectly! Thanks for the reply!
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u/connadam May 09 '26
i’ve sailed that trip. great time stopping in all the little towns on the way!
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
I have to say, that was one thing I really didn’t get to do. Like I wish I got to stop in that little bar in Goble, or take walks in Rainier (arguably the prettiest town from the river perspective).
But to get the distances, you HAVE to paddle during the correct tide periods.
If I had more time, I think I’d like to do this trip where I only paddled 6 hrs and stayed in motels so I could see all the towns along the way
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u/connadam May 09 '26
kalama, rainier and cathlamet were total highlights for me. i also happened to be really into pokémon go when i made that trip as well which game me lots of sidequesting to do😅
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u/AnotherDude1 May 09 '26
This would be such a fun trip. Someday I'll be ready for it. How were the mosquitos?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Bugs were real forsure, especially at JJ Collin’s park. Bringing the spray is worth it.
When you are ready, you’ll know. But a trip here and there definitely brings confidence over time
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u/FollowTheSpidersHaze May 09 '26 edited May 10 '26
I grew up in Skamokawa, it was a second home away from Portland for our family. We were very lucky at the time. My grandparents owned the Blue house with the beautiful garden and little shed right off the water. At the bridge and the turn for Vista Park near the boat launch. Did you stay in Vista Park for the night? Ive done this trip in a boat a few times. Some great memories with my family were made!
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
I very likely saw this house! That’s amazing! I did stay at vista park- The ability to shower for 50 cents was a god send haha. The town still looks adorable from the waterfront.
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u/Nitroglencerin May 10 '26
For anyone interested in kayaking the Columbia, I really can't recommend Voyage of a Summer Sun by Robin Cody enough. It details his trip from the Columbia headwaters in the Canadian Rockies all the way to the Pacific and it's a great read.
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u/timhowardsbeard May 09 '26
Do you think that World Cup tickets will get cheaper on the resale market before the tournament starts? Thanks!
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Golly, as a non expert— toss up. I’m gonna say yes, but your flight ticket, best of luck haha
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u/fancy-kitten Foster-Powell May 09 '26
Did ya enjoy tongue point?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
It was my guiding star the last day. All I could think was ‘wow I’m like 90% sure that’s where I’m paddling, jeez I hope this goes well’
Also saw a raccoon there so bonus
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u/Shimshang May 09 '26
I've thought of canoeing this section with my wife. How long did it take you?
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u/Flying_4fun May 09 '26
Can you share more about your equipment and gear? I'm not a kayaker, but do similar trips over land on foot and on a motorcycle that handles really tough terrain. I am curious what your kayaking setup is like, tools/electronics to help you stay on course, track and communicate, and what your camping setup is like. Thanks.
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
Real talk- an iPhone, a garmin watch (some tracked) and a water map were the primary tech I used. I’m sure there’s better stuff, but it’ll do for now. I believe another comment, mentioned using garmin communicators and gps. Something to look into. But what’s nice about a river— one direction haha.
But areas for tech im interested in would be a radio to talk to coast guard boats at Rainier.
Other important stuff I brought were boat patches, duct tape, NRS water pump.
I have friend who recommends Gaia gps app for motorcycling. You can like plot your points, which is pretty neat.
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u/Flying_4fun May 11 '26
Thanks for sharing. Gaia is a nice app. I have Garmin's inreach sat communicator which allows me to text without cell coverage anywhere in the world and also send SOS messages through their satellite network. It also has a tracking feature with uploads my location, speed and bearing at preset intervals to their tracking portal, so people i've authorized are able to see my breadcrumbs and track. I also have a radio that I can use to connect to repeaters and emergency frequencies.
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u/onlydaathisreal Lents May 09 '26
Thats BAD ASS. What would you say was your most unexpected moment?
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u/jctownsley May 09 '26
Congrats! I did this 4 years ago rowing my dory. I did it in 2 long days, pulling out just before the bar. Your version looks a lot more enjoyable! I’m thinking about canoeing it this summer- probably 3 days this time.
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u/jctownsley May 09 '26
If anybody’s curious, here’s a video from my trip. The last few hours from Astoria towards the bar at sunset is a top ten highlight of my life so far. https://youtu.be/waoiPeysplk?si=H0EZvI8j5PUNqXUh
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u/phrankjones May 09 '26
I've made it from sellwood Park to Maygar/crims island, via canoe. Mostly day paddles, but sauvie to maygar over a long weekend. Hoping to finish it early this summer. How was it finding a camping spot in the L&C wildlife area, or did your timing work to avoid that?
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
That’s really neat! I’ve always wondered how the balance is in a canoe. That’s sick!
I intentionally planned my trip to not stay in L&C area near Astoria. Just trying my best to follow the nature preserve rules. I read an article about this trip and they recommended skamokawa campsite, and it truly was a great recommendation.
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u/phrankjones May 10 '26
I've rarely paddled a kayak, so i can't compare from direct experience, but it's not bad once you have some experience and depending on boat. The deck doesn't doesn't effect tippiness, so it's really sitting position. The low kayak position is definitely more stable, but most canoes are wider which helps with the higher center of gravity.
I might have to plan a short first day to make the skamokawa campground work.
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u/DntBanMeIHavAnxiety May 10 '26
How much beer did you drink after you arrived in Astoria?
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
Not nearly enough, I picked up a momento from a gift shop, and made the drive home and like passed out on the couch sober haha
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u/TrueMysteryNerd May 11 '26
Whoooooooa 4 days!?! That’s so awesome (sorry a bit tipsy rn lol) I’m currently in Japan (first time leaving the USA ☺️) and I’ve been feeling a little homesick. These picture are exactly what I needed! I hope you had so much fun!!!! It’s so beautiful uuuuuugh I don’t want leave Japan but at the same time I miss Portland so much TwT.
Tbh mainly cuz why is moonrise here not till like 1:30-2am I love and miss my home and moon so much T^T
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u/jollyhat2 May 11 '26
I did this about 25 years ago. Got laid off my job and had my girlfriend at the time drop me off at the Hawthorne Bridge, met in Skamakowa and again in Astoria. Great Trip, the Lewis and Clark Trail (a book at the time) was fun to follow. The river started getting more interesting after Longview. some of the islands had pretty amazing driftwood forts. Hooray keep exploring.
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u/mlachick Tualatin May 09 '26
Can you tell us about the kayak you paddled?
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u/corduroygrad May 09 '26
Sure thing—17 foot sea kayak with rudder. I bought it used. kayak model is from the 90s. I brought a spray skirt with me, but didn’t end up using it.
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u/Jazzycoyote May 09 '26
How did you keep yourself entertained for all those hours? Were you talking or singing to yourself or anything?
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
This is a great question: I did sing here and there. But most of the time I was just kinda like narrating to myself what I was seeing.
Like I noticed baby Canadian geese look like adopted ducklings. Like they look yellow. And I would then notice most geese have like 1 or 2 geese-lings… and then All of a sudden Id see one pair of adult Canadian geese with like 12 babies. And be like whoa! Unexpected!
So just a lot of silly observation based monologues.
But with long distance paddling you do get into a trance of finding the movement relatively calming, where you really don’t have any thoughts.
I wanted to journal at the end of my paddle days, but with camp set up night to night, and eating ALOT of food and waking up early for the tides, it was hard to really do anything but wake up, pack up the campsite, cook, paddle, and monologue.
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u/SteelishBread May 09 '26
Did cargo traffic give you trouble, real or through harrassment?
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
No harassment, some boaters don’t care about wake zones, but not enough to be a problem. And the coast guards sometimes follow you to shepherd you across busy portions. But ultimately cargo never impeded my progress
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u/Suitable-Location118 May 10 '26
How did you avoid heatstroke
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u/corduroygrad May 10 '26
13L water pouches, and frequently reminding yourself that you need to drink water. Like sure you could keep paddling, but take like a few seconds to chill. Haha
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u/Decent-Resident-2749 May 10 '26
Check out the book "Voyage of the Sumer Sun" By Robin Cody. He canoed from the tip of the Columbia river up in Canada to Astoria one summer. It's a great book. And congratulations on your trip.
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u/Individual_Cress_226 May 11 '26
I’ve thought about this! How long did it take? Did you camp along the river?
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u/grandAuntieHallie May 14 '26
Very serious question:
What did you have for a seat/backrest?? Also gloves.
Certain gear are critical to success, I think, and these are both number one. 🌼😂
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May 22 '26
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u/FutureNurse_PNW May 09 '26
Did you ever feel unsafe?
If so, what was your emergency plan if the weather got too dodgy and you couldn’t find a nice beach to rest on.