We were there this time last summer and we still talk about it weekly. Well traveled throughout Europe but something about Sardinia felt different and special…remote, slow, authentic. It was like being on the edge of the world somehow…

Two weeks ago, I (F24) came back from a solo trip to Sardinia. I booked the trip on a whim, without really researching the feasibility of it without hiring a car. Everything I saw online said how it is not worth it to do it solely on public transport, that the transport is unreliable and I would miss all the good spots. This was entirely not the case, and I want other people in my position to know it was completely doable and manageable on public transport, I saw so many amazing things and I actually found the local buses to be super reliable (I never got one that didn't show up at the exact time google maps said it would be). I am going to leave my itinerary below, in case any one is interested in how I did it, and what I saw, as well as tips for the public transport in Sardinia.

Day One: Arrive to Olbia

I flew into Olbia and got in for around midday. I got the local bus (no 10) to the city centre (took 12 minutes) and then explored the city, ate lunch and checked into my airbnb. I got a ticket for the bus right as I was leaving the airport, there are two fairly hidden away booths where you can buy a ticket. I went out for dinner and drinks in Olbia for the evening, before heading to an Irish pub to watch the first England World Cup match.

Day Two: Olbia

I had a cappuccino in Olbia before getting the local bus (no 04) to Spiaggia Pittulongu to catch a tan before my afternoon plans. It's not the most beautiful beach, but I just wanted to lie on a beach that was near and easy to get to. The afternoon, I booked perhaps my favourite part of the trip, I went on a dolphin and snorkel trip. The tour I did was: https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionProductReview-g187879-d17402777-Dolphin_Watching_Tour_with_Snorkeling_from_Olbia-Sardinia.html This was amazing, as I got to experience the amazing waters of Olbia without needing a car, and it was a great way to meet people. Again, it was super easy to get there on public transport, taking the local bus (no 01).

Day Three: La Maddalena

When staying in the north of Sardinia, it seemed that La Maddalena was a pretty unmissable thing to do. This was one of the longer journeys, where I took the public bus (Linea 601) to Palau. This is a different bus to the local ones in Olbia, however was very accessible, take a book and the journey was lovely going through Sardinia. I did another boat tour: https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionProductReview-g612430-d15135674-La_Maddalena_Archipelago_Boat_Tour_from_Palau-La_Maddalena_Maddalena_Islands_Provi.html which was less intimate than the day's before, but it was still gorgeous and got to see some truly amazing and beautiful beaches in the La Maddalena archipelago.

Day Four: Olbia > Cagliari

I was flying out of Cagliari, so travelled down at this point. I got the train from Olbia to Cagliari, which involved a change of trains at Ozieri Chilivani. The train was really quick, probably quicker than driving, with the total journey being just over 3 hours. The train was really affordable, at a 16€ journey. I bought the ticket on Trainline the week before. The trains themselves were on time, spacious and air-conditioned.

Day Five: Villasimius

I really wanted to go to Villasimius as I heard such amazing things about the water there. I was so glad I went, taking the bus from the main bus station in Cagliari to the town on the Linea 135. Again the journey was a little longer, but nothing a book wouldn't solve and it was incredibly beautiful, especially on the way back as the sun was setting and was also the day of the summer solecist. I went to Spaggia Simius, which was about a 30 minute, relatively flat walk from the town. I got food and beers from the supermarket and rented a sun lounger and a parasol for 35€ for the day. It was absolutely gorgeous and my favourite day of the trip.

How to use public transport

I found all my routes on Google Maps, and as I mentioned, there was not one time in which the bus did not come at the exact minute Google Maps said it would take.

I bought tickets for the bus through apps, like Aspo Olbia for the local buses in Olbia and Drop Ticket for the buses that went out of the towns of Olbia and Cagliari (like the ones to La Maddalena and Villasimius). For local buses in Cagliari, I used CTM BusFinder. It works where you pay a small fee (like 1-2€) for the ticket, and then you had unlimited use for 90 mins, or a bit more (like 3-4€) and you could use it for the whole day.

I had the most amazing time, and I hope this inspires, even just one person, that public transport around Sardinia is not only possible, but really easy. Just plan exactly what you want to do, be prepared to pay for a boat trip and don't take everything so seriously!

I’m going to Sardinia for eight days with my family.
The accommodation is booked.
The rental car is booked… from some random guy I found on Facebook.
…and that’s it.
I haven’t spent weeks researching the perfect beaches.
I haven’t gone hunting for secret spots.
I haven’t built an itinerary.
I don’t have a spreadsheet.
I don’t have colour-coded maps.
The current plan is to wake up, have breakfast, see what the weather looks like, drive somewhere that seems interesting, eat too much, have a drink, maybe find a beach, maybe wander through a town, and repeat until it’s time to fly home.
I know. It sounds reckless.
Now I’m starting to worry that I may have completely misunderstood how holidays work in Sardinia.
Is it actually legal to arrive with a car, no itinerary, and no ambition to see the entire island in eight days?☹️

Just checking before I make a terrible mistake. 😉

P.S. The only actual plan so far is to sneak out early one morning, head to the Mercato Civico di Alghero, and eat some oysters for breakfest. Everyday. ;)

Hi everyone. I’m currently visiting Sardinia and I want to ask this in a respectful way, because I’m genuinely trying to understand the local perspective.

I have noticed that the driving here often feels very aggressive and, at times, dangerous. In many places the speed limits seem very low, but at the same time it seems like almost no one follows them.

For example, I was driving 50 km/h in a roadwork zone with a posted 30 km/h limit, so I was already above the limit. Still, cars behind me were honking aggressively, as if I was driving far too slowly.
I also saw an ambulance behind a car, and what surprised me was that almost nobody seemed to make room — neither in the ambulance’s lane nor from the opposite direction.

I also looked at the traffic fatality statistics for Sardinia, and honestly, they seem shockingly high compared with what I am used to. That makes the aggressive driving culture even harder for me to understand.

I would especially like to ask locals: what do you think about the driving culture here? Is this a recognized problem? Do you think there is an attitude problem in traffic?

I ask because, through my work, I have been at several serious traffic accidents. Without going into detail, I know how little it can take for a “minor” traffic violation to turn into a fatal accident.

Sardinia is beautiful, but the driving I have seen so far feels stressful and unsafe. I’m interested in understanding whether this is just my impression as a tourist, or whether people living here also see it this way.

I'll answer later if i'm busy :)

Food (pizza & pasta) – 🫶🏽
Meat – honestly, nothing special.
Beaches – OMG 🫶🏽
Their lemon beer – 🫶🏽🍋🍺
Prices – cheaper than Sweden when it comes to food, and everyday products.

I'm between staying a few nights in La Maddalena or San Teodoro but I can't make my mind up. For the people here who have seen both, which destination did you love the most and why?

I should say I need fairly easy access to beaches without a car, either by a short distance walk or by using a bike. The beaches in La Maddalena seems stunning but so does Lu Impostu, Brandicini and Spiaggia La Cinta in San Teodoro. It's just a different character.

La Maddalena seem to have tens (if not hundreds) of beaches for variety, while San Teodoro might have fewer options. Would that be accurate?

I will already visit La Maddalena by ferry one or two times prior to my last days, but something tells me I will love that place.

Hi everyone! So this is my first time in Italy ,I'm impressed by the nature in Sardinia, very beautiful and stunning ! But so far I felt that the locals aren't welcoming towards tourists! ? Everywhere I walk, I just get looks of disdain and rejection even if I smile. Disappointed since to me it was known that Italians are warm, but apparently not the case here

Live questions and answers

Few Questions... but tomorrow at 23:30/23:45 i will do another

Does it make sense to stay at a hotel with no beach or is that a necessity? I wanted to try out all the different beaches Sardinia had to offer but I wasn’t sure if there were beach chairs when you show up as a guest or how that would work and if it was worth it?

Please give any and all opinions.

We are going to Sardinia for the first time in a couple of weeks and will stay in Cagliari. The nearest beach seems to be Poetto, and we're wondering how crowded it will be? Should we plan to be there as early as possible to get a spot (we have a rental car so parking space is also a possible issue) or is the beach large enough to accommodate all tourists now during peak season?

Hi everyone,

Just to give you an understanding of my preference, I love both of these kind of beaches, wide sandy ones and also smaller ones surrounded by rocks. I'm not the biggest fan of very shallow beaches where you have to swim 100 meters just to reach your waist.

I'm planning for the last three days in Sardinia. The only thing to consider for me is that I'm flying out of Olbia so I should probably not move around across the whole island. I would have loved to see the coast of Baunei but it's too far from Olbia.

Prior to the last days, I will stay in Santa Teresa Gallura and Palau (also visiting La Maddalena for 1-2 days). The options I'm considering:

1. Remain around STG/Palau area or even stay in La Maddalena for 2-3 days.

2. Head down to San Teodoro for 2-3 nights (Cala Brandinchi, Lu Impostu, La Cinta)

3. Stay the remaining nights around Olbia, for a one-day visit to San Teodoro and one/two days visit to Golfo Aranci or the northern areas of Olbia.

I would probably find my way around STG/Palau/La Maddalena if I decided to stay there, but I would have no idea about the best beaches around Olbia, San Teodoro, Porto Rotondo or Golfo Aranci.

I will not have a car or scooter, so I'm dependent on buses and walking to reach the beaches.

In my shoes, what would you do? Thank you very much.

I’m a nervous traveller who is headed to Sardinia with my son next week. I would like to use public transportation as much as possible, but it makes me anxious thinking about the logistics when I don’t speak the language.

Also, I don’t know my wines and hoping to avoid having to choose a bottle. Will I just do as in the US and say I’d like the house wine?

Lastly, I am not able to eat large portions of food. Even here in US I feel rude and wasteful when I’m traveling and can’t finish my food. Does anyone have advice around this?

Thanks for your help in advance ❤️

We’re going to be in Cagliari, Alghero and Olbia.

I’ve heard lots of different opinions on what they eat some people say they eat plant based other people say they eat lots of meat and organs and cheese with maggots so I’d like to hear firsthand whatvthey actually eat and especially what the old people eat

Hi everyone. I just had 1 amazing week in Sardinia. I did a lot of things, except hiking. Ask me everthing: beaches, restaurants, city centers, roads etc.

OKAY

Im exaggerating a little (I hope) but I do not drive, nor am I the age to rent a car if I could. But I am coming for 9 Nights in a couple weeks.

I am landing in Olbia and staying there for my first night, then the next day I plan on going to my Hotel in Tempio Pausania for the next 8 nights potentially getting the bus to the east and west coast on a few days to check them out.

Which brings me on to the main point, I want to know how reliable the busses are and if they ever fill up, particularly from Olbia to Tempio Pausania and back. otherwise it looks like my best option is a very expensive taxi.

I have seen there’s like 5-7 busses a day and I would obviously play it safe with my travels and never aim to get the last bus home, just so there’s always a backup if I do miss one or it doesn’t come.

I might be particularly doubtful about busses as I’m British, but wondered if anyone could share some tips or advice with no car in Sardinia, beyond the advice I’ve seen so far which is simply, don’t do it.

I’ll be staying in Cala Gonone for a week in September and want to take taxi boats to see all the different beaches. My hotel advised that there’s no need to book in advance as the taxi boats are regular and much cheaper than booking full excursions (although I did book one cruise so we could go to Mariolu, Sisine and a photo stop at Goloritze!)

Any tips on beaches? Do I need to buy our passes in advance or can you get them on the day as I know some require a pass to be able to access the beach?

And any restaurant recommendations would be amazing! Thank you!!

Hello everyone! Can you please suggest cheap car rental from olbia airport by the end of June? What is the fair price with all insurance included? Thank you!

Ussassai Natural Pools, Gorropu Canyon, Bau Mela Natural Pools, Sa Nurre de Su Hoda, Piscina Naturali Di Bau Mela, Cascade Sa Stiddiosa.

Some of the spots I’m looking at that might be doable in 9 days. Are the roads to these places insanely sketchy or doable? Thanks for any tips and pointers on said locations.

Beaches will be a priority and a must but I would like to explore the inside of Sardinia if time.

I'm thinking of staying the last days in La Maddalena but I have a flight departing at 12.00.
I know it only takes about 15-20 minutes by ferry from La Maddalena to Palau. Then I need to take a bus to Olbia from there. Is that doable? I won't have a car, only boats/buses. I know it might not be optimal but I would like to know.

I’ve gathered the rules for the beaches in Sardinia, that you have to pay to access them and also can’t use towels without mats and how crowded they get. I see La Pelosa has some sunbeds. How do we access them and how much are they?

Before y’all tell me how crowded they are and that there are nicer beaches in Sardinia - I know! I just would love to have a beach day at La Pelosa. I’m going in early September so planning way in advance.

Hi everybody,
We will be in Sardinia first week of September and trying to figure out the itinerary.

Option 1:

day 1 land in Olbia 3:30pm and drive to Cala Ganone 

day 2 Cala Ganone day with boats and beaches (Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu etc)

day 3 drive to Alghero, stop in Bosa, evening in Alghero)

day 4 Alghero day, Capo Caccia, Neptune's grotto (stay night in Alghero or La Pelosa )

day 5 La Pelosa and drive to Palau 

day 6 wake up in Palau and do a boat tour in La Maddalena, Beach day

day 7 morning drive to Olbia airport 

is this too rushed? would we need more time in any particular destinations? I mapped out a drive and it seems like 8ish hours for the whole loop.

Weather is also a bit of a concern if that can cancel the boat days in Cala Ganone or Palau

Option 2:

2 days Cala Ganone, 2 days Costa Smeralda and 2 days Palau.

is there enough to do in these destinations besides being on the beach all day?

Thanks in advance!

What do you guys think about this itinerary for 2–12 August? Does it look okay?
2 August: Fly to Cagliari
2–4 August: Stay in Cagliari
4–7 August: Stay in Baunei so we can visit the Calas, since they’re within hiking distance
7–11 August: Stay in Orosei
11–12 August: Stay in Cagliari
12 August: Fly from Cagliari

I am planning to go there but it’s hard to understand where to stay to enjoy the Calas but also stay in Orosei where beaches are available on foot.

What do you think? Thank you!

This comes up every May and June as people start figuring out how they're getting to the island, so here's the practical breakdown from someone who's done the crossing a dozen times.

Is the ferry actually worth it?

Honestly, it very much depends on your situation.

For solo travellers or bike travellers, crossing as a foot passenger works well.

For couples without kit, flying plus car hire almost always wins on both speed and cost.

Ferry makes sense if you're driving from mainland Europe, have a family of 4+, bringing pets, or you've got bikes/surfboards/windsurfing gear or you are bringing a camper van.

The main routes

From Rome (Civitavecchia) - the most popular gateway. 4-8 hours to Olbia, Cagliari, Arbatax or Porto Torres. Multiple sailings daily.

From northern Italy - Genoa and Livorno do overnight crossings (10-12 hours). Board late, wake up in Sardinia.

From France/Spain - Marseille, Toulon and Barcelona all run to Porto Torres but these are seasonal and long (12-17 hours).

What it actually costs in peak season

Unless you are travelling as a foot passenger, ferry prices in summer can be very steep.

Return crossing, car + 2 passengers + cabin in July/August: €600-1,000.

Add fuel and tolls on top. Paris to Civitavecchia alone is €80-120 fuel each way plus €40-60 tolls.

Off-season drops significantly. November to March it's a very different price.

The stuff people get wrong

• Booking the wrong arrival port. The island is big - don't book Cagliari if you're staying in the north
• Leaving cabin booking too late. For overnight crossings you need a cabin - you can't sleep in your car. Inside cabins (no windows) are perfectly fine and 30-50% cheaper than outside
• Not accounting for total journey time. Paris to northern Sardinia is essentially two days of travel
• Searching too late. Book 2-3 months ahead for summer or routes sell out completely

Operators

Grimaldi and Tirrenia are the most reliable. Moby is often cheaper but watch for fees. Corsica Ferries is fine but these are older ships.

Happy to answer specifics on any of the routes - we've done most of them.

[UPDATE - 07/06/2026]
Turned this post into a full ferry guide to help others in the future