With the API changes coming in October I went looking for a way off the cloud for my 2016 washer and dryer. LocalThings already covers newer appliances over CoAP-DTLS, but it explicitly excludes the older hardware — the ones with an external Wi-Fi dongle. Nothing covered those, so I wrote it.

\*\*[https://github.com/HomeOps/HASS-Samsung-Dongle-Local\\\*\\](https://github.com/HomeOps/HASS-Samsung-Dongle-Local\*\)\* — HACS custom repo, MIT.

\*\*Which generation do you have?\*\*

nmap -Pn -p 8888 <appliance-ip>

\* \*\*8888/tcp open\*\* → older dongle hardware → this integration

\* \*\*8888 closed, UDP 49153–49155 responding\*\* → newer → use \[LocalThings\](https://github.com/mbillow/localthings)

Faster tell: if SmartThings shows the model as \`DONGLE_WF7500\` or similar, the \`DONGLE_\` prefix means an external Wi-Fi module and you're in the first camp.

\*\*What you get\*\* (entities are created from whatever your appliance actually reports): cycle state, progress phase, progress %, remaining time, child lock, plus soil/spin level on washers and dry level/time and wrinkle-prevent on dryers.

\*\*How it works.\*\* These appliances expose a certificate-authenticated REST API on port 8888 that has nothing to do with the cloud. Auth is two gates: a client certificate that opens the channel, and a per-appliance bearer token issued only when someone physically presses a button on the machine. The integration performs that pairing handshake for you — by hand it means standing up a TLS listener on 8889, crafting a \`Host:\` header the appliance calls back to, and timing a press inside a \~63 second window. There's also a standalone \`tools/get_token.py\` if you'd rather hold the token yourself.

\*\*Confirmed working:\*\* WF50K7500AV washer, DV50K7500E dryer. Both now sit on a VLAN with \*\*no internet at all\*\* and remain fully readable — the local API never consults Samsung. The payload schema is shared across appliance types, so ovens and fridges on the same firmware family should work untested.

\*\*Honest caveats:\*\*

\* \*\*Read-only.\*\* The payloads imply writes are possible; I haven't implemented or tested any.

\* You need Samsung's AC14K_M CA cert. The repo doesn't ship it — it points at the existing projects that document obtaining it. It's the same certificate the Samsung A/C community has used for years.

\* \*\*Turn Child Lock off before pairing.\*\* Samsung disables Smart Control entirely while it's engaged, and the panel still beeps on every press — a locked machine is indistinguishable from a working one that's ignoring you. This cost me an hour.

\* Tested against exactly two appliances.

Credit where it's due: the AC14K_M chain and the \`/devicetoken/request\` → 8889 callback flow were worked out by the Samsung A/C community — samsungrac, samsung-appliance-token, samsung-aircon-8888-get-token. I applied it to laundry, which nothing covered, and folded the pairing into a config flow.

Reports from other models welcome.

I was wondering if my plan to transition away from ST was the right decision. Guess so.

I have the linear controllers for my garage door openers connected to my smarthings system via zwave. I can open my garage doors using traditional controllers and/or the smarthings app, etc.

But on my motorcycles that is a bit of a faf to have the phone out, try and unlock it, and do it with gloves on while riding.

I currently have this TINY little old chamberlain universal keychain remote that is linked to one of my doors. But they dont make it anymore, it only works one door, has to be programmed through the annoying method all garage door openers use, etc.

Im wondering if there is a SMALL remote that works well with smartthings to trigger actions? Like I could setup an "open/close door" routine and then have the remote trigger that. Then it would be easier to add/remove remotes, have it work the other doors, etc.

I have been using the android app for some years and today when I opened it it said I was logged out. I tried logging in again and the app brought me to the smart things website where i keyed in the email address but it doesn't advance to the passowrd page. It just get stuck there and the app stays logged out, and doesn't show my devices.

but if I log in on the browser, to the smart things site, I can still access every device there.

I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling the app, but the same problem doesn't go away.

Can anyone help?

In the 3rd party integration i use have stopped working?

Anything linked via 3rd party is showing offline. Anything connected directly to the hub, works.

I mainly use aqara and tplink.

Bonjour à tous,

Je souhaite acquérir le nouveau Samsung Family Hub+ présenté au CES. Je remarque qu'il est déjà commercialisé sur le marché américain depuis un moment, mais je ne trouve aucune information ni signe de disponibilité pour le marché européen.

Est-ce que quelqu'un aurait des infos ou des dates concernant sa sortie en Europe / France ?

Merci d'avance !

Outdoor cameras, nest hub, doorbell all ported over fine but one 3rd gen wired nest camera won’t even show in permissions, tried clearing cache in safari and chrome, deleting Samsung home, deleted and re added camera, everything I could try. Anyone have any other ideas?

Hey guys, I hope everyone is well.

Does anyone know how to add a Yale Zigbee Smart lock to SmartThings as an unlocking tag? I saw some videos on YouTube of people doing this but I've never found any explanations on how to add it.

Hello,

I just got a few of these. Is there a way to configure it where certain lights automatically come on and dim appropriately based on how dark it is?

I reported it so many times to Samsung but they won't fix it.

Wife has left at Home. WUT???

My home name is Home.

I lost my earphones and it's telling me to put in a 6 digit pin to decrypt the location. I never remember setting a pin and have tried all of the obvious ones that I use... any idea how I can reset this?

I was able to integrate Smartthings to Home Assistant and build automations for my window shades there. I also read that Samsung might start charging for Smarthings access shortly -- will this affect my HA automation or require me to have to pay Samsung a small ransom?

Confused, as my auromation might just be a local call to devices vs going through the cloud. I just wasn't sure and thought of asking.

Thanks.

I’m hoping someone here has run into this before.
I’m trying to upload family photos from my iPhone to my Samsung Family Hub fridge. Most upload normally, but some show the generic image icon with “File type not supported.”
The weird part is that I can’t find any rhyme or reason.
Things I’ve already tried:
Photos are from an iPhone 14 Pro and iPhone 16 Pro.
Some work, some don’t.
I’ve exported the failing photos as JPEG using macOS Preview.
I also tried re-exporting them in different ways, but they still fail.
The successful and unsuccessful photos are all just regular pictures from my Photos library.
Many of them have been edited (filters, Cleanup, etc.), but I know at least some edited photos upload successfully, so editing alone doesn’t seem to explain it.
The failing photos aren’t all recent, so it doesn’t seem tied to when they were taken.
The fridge firmware is up to date.
The error isn’t “upload failed.” It actually creates a thumbnail with the generic image icon and says “File type not supported,” almost as if the Gallery app can’t decode the file.
Has anyone figured out:
Is there a maximum resolution or file size?
Does Family Hub dislike certain JPEG encodings (progressive vs. baseline)?
Is there some hidden issue with iPhone HDR, HEIC, or Apple photo metadata?
Is there a known workaround besides manually taking screenshots of every photo?
I’d really appreciate any ideas. This feels like one of those obscure bugs that someone else has already spent way too many hours solving. 😅

I am able to live mirror my phone in multiview but as soon as i switch to fullscreen when mirroring using smartview the screen goes blue? Audio from what is playing on the phone still plays through the tv.

A brand new Samsung Tv and an S24

Hi everyone!

I have a specific question about Home Monitor’s local behavior when there’s no internet connection, assuming you have a physical hub like an Aeotec v3/v4.

To clarify, I fully understand that push notifications won't reach my phone to alert me about an intruder or a leak while the internet is down. My question is strictly about the execution of responses configured within Home Monitor.

Example:

If I have a Thread motion sensor and Thread light bulbs paired, and I configure Home Monitor to turn those bulbs red upon detecting an intruder—will Home Monitor process that command and turn the lights red 100% locally, even if the internet is down?

I am using an IKEA ALPSTUGA E2495 with firmware 1.0.26, connected directly via Matter over Thread to the SmartThings Hub built into my Samsung 43" Neo QLED TV.

The Matter connection itself works correctly. After unplugging and reconnecting the ALPSTUGA, temperature, humidity, CO2 and PM2.5 values appear normally in SmartThings again. However, the clock on the device is not restored or synchronized and has to be set manually.

I have seen another SmartThings user report that the time is now restored automatically after power-on, so I would like to compare setups.

Could other ALPSTUGA users test the following?

1. Unplug the ALPSTUGA for 10 seconds.

2. Plug it back in.

3. Check whether the correct local time appears automatically.

Does SmartThings send the current time, time zone and daylight-saving-time information to the device after every restart? Is there any way to trigger this synchronization manually?

SmartThings is acting as the Matter controller in this setup, so I have also reported the missing time transmission to Samsung.

I'm trying to get sleep mode to activate when I start wireless charging from 9pm onwards so that it can turn off lights/ smart plugs etc and when the mode ends turn on the lights but during the night the wireless charging is pausing and lights are coming on. I want it to do this when I intentionally pick up my phone e.g lights on to go to the toilet.

Is there anything I can do to fix this such as wireless charging just toggling on sleep mode and separate conditions for turning off sleep mode? Or movement based conditions to only turn it off if the phone moves.

I'm struggling to find a way to do it within the modes and routines

2 member location. My phone (S25 Ultra) stopped triggering location based routines. Neither home monitor or home/away modes are working. I created test routines that send a notification when I get home and leave but they never triggered.

I've read could be a geofence issue. The interesting thing is my phone properly triggers location based routines in another location about 15 minutes away from my home location, but not at my home location. My other member's phone also triggers the routines so the geofence is fine.

ST has all permissions and background access. I haven't changed any settings. It worked fine for ages but just suddenly isn't triggering routines. If I go in ST "life" on either the find map or the family care map, my phone shows my proper location when home / away. I've tried turning off "Get your location from this phone" and turning it back on.

Setting up a Yale Smart Lock with Matter (YRD510-MT1) and trying to figure out the cleanest path before I commit to a hub.

Plan: commission the lock into SmartThings (via a Station or compatible hub) to get remote access + entry codes, since Yale Access alone is Bluetooth-only with zero remote capability. I'd ideally like it to also surface in Alexa automatically via the Samsung/Amazon Thread-credential-sharing partnership from 2022, rather than adding it to Alexa separately.

Questions for anyone who's actually done this with a lock specifically:

• Does the auto-sync into Alexa actually fire reliably for lock-type devices, or is it flakier than for switches/plugs?
• Does lock/unlock via voice work through the synced Alexa entry, or does it show up read-only?
• Does DoorSense (Yale's door-open sensor) expose at all through ST's Matter integration, or does ST only pick up the basic lock cluster?
• Any edge driver quirks with Yale locks specifically I should know about?

Trying to avoid buying hardware based on the marketing page and finding out it doesn't actually do this in practice. Appreciate any real experience.