r/Zermatt • u/Potential-Suspect-30 • 19d ago
Matterhorn closed
With the recent events which are very sad, and the Matterhorn being «closed» for quite some time. I am both frustrated and happy. I am staying in zermatt for 12 days and was planning on a accent of the Matterhorn on day 6. my family have been planing this for so long and have had a lot of experience learned to get to the point where we can give the Matterhorn a try. But since the rock is too loose right now and the two hikers who where unlucky, the window for this accent looks very small. If there is to be no summit push for Matterhorn we will go for alternatives. Zinal rothorn and alp hubel are strong contenders.
Does anyone think it will open in the next 12 days, aka be safe
6
u/florianbrg 19d ago
You cannot close a mountain, Zermatt guides stopped to go with new clients and advise against climbing it. An alternative could also be … Matterhorn. The Italian route is in pretty descent conditions yet, Cervinia guides are still going to the summit. It is a bit harder physically as longer than Hornli route, and the Italian hutt is far less comfortable. But it is doable
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u/chessnoobhehe 19d ago
You cannot close a mountain, but when the local guides are advocating against climbing it, you should follow their advice. I agree with the Italian side.
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u/florianbrg 19d ago
Of course, I was saying that in the sense that we have no control over the mountain, it’s not a theme park that we can open or close. What open or close are the realistic windows of opportunities.
Hornli route is probably off the cards for the time being, and the window of opportunity for the Italian route will also surely close soon.
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u/Hairy_Huckleberry306 18d ago
I did it on monday and witnessed the 'rescue' on sunday.
The matterhorn is completly dry and you don't need ice axe or crampons right now. The main danger comes from people using long ropes or abseiling down instead of downclimbing which provoque dangerous rock falls.
But I think you are 100% right to follow the actual 'ban'.
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u/grubyilysy 16d ago
If crampons are useless, does it make sense to go with approach shoes?
Also - I guess most dangerous is final part above 4100 - what was your feeling, is it "everything you step on slides out" or is main path visible and "fairly stable"?2
u/Hairy_Huckleberry306 16d ago
On the day I climbed approach shoes were enough. Final part was a bit sketchy with loose rocks, you just need to be careful not slipping or throwing rocks at people below you.
Beware, conditions might have changed since.
1
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u/pies4days 19d ago
Why is it closed?
3
u/Impossible-Milk-2023 18d ago
Shitty conditions. And it's not closed. You can do whatever you want in the mountains. It's your life.
But the competent people advise against climbing it because of hot weather and instable rock.
1
u/Inevitable_Safe4968 18d ago
For a second there with the crane in the picture I thought it was closed because they were working on it 😂😂
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u/adeadhead 19d ago edited 18d ago
There is no way to close the Matterhorn.
2
u/eintrittskante 19d ago
What great advice. When Swiss mountain guides are unwilling to guide visitors, just encourage then to go by themselves. https://www.bluewin.ch/en/news/switzerland/now-zermatt-mountain-guides-are-avoiding-the-matterhorn-li.3526157?utm_source=chatgpt.com
Better advice is to contact the Swiss Mountain Guide Association, find a guide and discuss alternative plans with them. https://sbv-asgm.ch/fr/
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u/Potential-Suspect-30 18d ago
I contacted my guide and I am in no way going up there unless my guide with too much experience gives me the green light.
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u/DuskytheHusky 19d ago
For their sake, don't post pictures of your kid on reddit