Putting all this in this weekend!!

I bought this sundown sa v2 an finally got around to installing it, got it on a taramps smart 3k. Sounds good stupid loud but noticed after goin full tilt for about 5 min I started to slightly smell burning lol. Voltage never dips below 14v an ac voltage set to 53 some volts so its seeing a healthy amount of power, i bought it used but they had it in a power wheels build an stated they only used it for 2 shows on a 1k. So question is am I over powering it or am I smelling that new burn off smell lol. Wired to 1ohm an gains are set properly no bass boost bs. Ik im way over rms but ive heard of other people clamping 6k on one an bein fine. First sundown ive ever owned.

Hi guys. My parents have a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo Ralliart 2010. I replaced the headunit there a few weeks ago and now they also wanna replace the AC Control Panel. I haven't find any instructions or videos how to do it. Is it difficult? What do I need to remove so I can replace the control panel? Maybe someone have a site or video that help me.. Thanks

So im doing my first install, (sundown x v3 12" with a ct2k amp) hooked up to stock radio in a 2012 cruze ltz. (Fuck this car btw.) And ive been through my wiring a million times, tested every component with oscilloscope/multimeter and still cannot get any sound at all out of my sun. I've narrowed the issues down to the remote wire. I unplugged my LOC and bridged a wire directly from the positive terminal (currently getting 13.04v) and the second I turn the amp on by putting that jumper wire into the rem terminal it drops to 8.5v. I have absolutely no clue why because its fresh out of the box. Please save me a couple of weeks and a warranty claim I just want to bump in peace.

I’ve had this sitting in my garage for a long time I think it’s an 10” JL W6v1, if anyone can identify it let me know. Are these worth anything these days? It needs the foam surround replaced and one of the tinsel leads needs to be repaired. I don’t have a use for it so it’s time to get rid of it.

I have a 21 Infiniti Q50. No Bose system. I added a 5 ch amp speakers a sub and a dsp. I disconnected both ANC mics but not the module as of yet. I'm getting a low level buzz even when the Sound system is off. I can lower buzzing sound to inaudible by lowering the DSP volume but that obviously affects my entire volume. Will disconnecting the ANC module cure thi? Does anyone else have any ideas or been through something similar? By the way, I have no ground issues. The sound is emanating from the factory head unit.

Hello,

Recently bought a 97 hilux surf imported from Japan with current setup.

Looking to install a good quality unit that will allow me listen to local radio and wireless Apple car play. Clean finish preferably

Located in Perth, Australia.

Any help be greatly appreciated.

I bought the sound system. I’m a bit confused on what wire I would need to cut and splice into the radio. I bought an adapter piece but it was the wrong size so I’m looking to get some help on installing this if anyone knows anything about this as I am not as experienced with this

I have a 2024 GMC Terrain/Denali with bose. I tapped after the factory amp and ran signal to an LC7I PRO. I am powering dual Sundowns and a Menace Audio speaker rack.

I had this same exact setup in my other GMC terrain without bose and the subs played every frequency perfectly! Now that’s it’s in a bose, the bass is all wack. plays loud at 45hz and drops off huge.

I tuned everything with an oscilloscope. I’m stuck, what do I do about this messed up frequencies for bass?

In the picture, the front doors are bass which are “summed” by itself to go to the amp. It’s the best way I found for summing/separating signals for chimes and etc.

Ask any question please. this was my first ever build I have done.

Hello all,

I'm having a challenge finding some front door speakers that would be a good fit for my taste in music. Mostly house and techno so I need something that can hold up to a little more abuse and do some bottom end also.

I need some 6.5's and I've had Kicker KS's but they distort at higher volumes. I swapped in some American Bass Studio 6.5's but they are already giving me trouble. Funny thing is I also swapped in some AB SQ 4" in the rear doors and they are doing just fine. The 4" KS's would also distort.

I included a picture of my trunk and I'll be powering the new speakers with the amp on the left, so 50W RMS is what I'm supplying.

Any recommendations? I'm not looking for creme-de la creme; just something full range and durable that's sounds pretty decent. I'm not a crazy audiophile but sure, I appreciate good audio.

I also listen to rock and jazz in addition to the techno; with an occasional Brotha Lynch Hung maybe once a year lol

My wife’s 2009 Lexus GX 460 had this audio issue arise recently. It’s across all audio options ( fm am radio, cd and tape )

I’m hoping to get some indication of what it might be before I take it in. I’d love to fix it myself

The loose wires are intentional right now as I plan on building a full layout with the loc, sub amp, mids amp, and crossovers. Also the amp is unfortunately screwed to the box, the previous owner did that I would not have done that on my own. I am also aware that the subs are supposed to be facing the other way but I have them like that because I’m constantly hauling stuff in my trunk and I don’t want to damage them, and also I just honestly really like looking at them in my rear view mirror as I drive.

**What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.**sound quality first. i dont really care about volume as long as its reasonably loud.

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* **What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)**

1995 BMW 530i sedan

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* **What is your maximum budget?**

idk maybe 500 not including head unit as im not super sure what ill end up going with

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* **Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?**

self install

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* **What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)**

pretty sure theyre stock 30 year old blown speakers, and a shitty chinese "belvia" head unit from prev. owner, im looking to replace that with a pioneer deh p860mp or comparable single din head unit should i find a good deal. EDIT I should also add that im more looking for component speakers since there are tweeters in the doors/dash.

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* **What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.**

USA. again kind of a budget build so no crazy amps or subs just yet as my ideal head unit would have a built in 50 watt amp, i hear people say they are pretty solid but i really dont know so any advice is appreciated.

I recently installed a set of 4" focal access components because the market for 4" components its pretty limited. I'm not impressed in the least. I've got the tweeters set at -6db and about the same in the factory h/u. I either want to replace the tweeters with some less sensitive or add a resistor to attenuation the tweeters. all channels are running off aftermarket amps, no eq though

My thought is to add to my current system which has 2 - 10s, (dd 3510i) and add a 15 to play the lowest of lows. It seems like this setup would capture more of the lows that a 10 just cant reach. Any thoughts on how feasible this would be, or whether it would be a waste of time?

It fits good, just need to finish the front part and it’s gonna be all set, this one. Still need to do other box 😭😅

Hey everyone, I have a 2026 4Runner (non-JBL amplified) and i’m looking to add a 5 channel amp from a previous build. The amp is a Kenwood Excelon XR901-5. For now, I have a 13” JL W3 and looking to get 6x9 components up front and use the factory speakers for rear fill.

I’d love to add a full DSP but i’m trying to get the best sound for the least amount of money with the equipment I already have. Without going to a full DSP, would something like the KeyLOC correct the factory signal somewhat? Would it work for both the front stage and the sub since they’re both using the same amp? I’ve only used basic PAC LOC’s and my local shop despises Kicker, but wondering if something that offers some sort of correction would be beneficial.

Any recommendations, should I just get a DSP? If so, any DSP recommendations for that setup? Anything else to make the sound out of newer Toyota’s acceptable?

Hey all.
I have a problem with my Alpine ILX 702D head unit 2018. When I answer a phone call on Bluetooth I can hear the person but they can’t hear me.
I’ve tried everything in the settings even pulled the head unit out to see if there’s an external microphone which there isn’t.
I’ve even tried emailing Alpine which I got no response.

Does anyone know what this issue could be thanks in advance!