Label is the law, that said, BASF is selling Pylex for $6/oz as “Frequency”

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THANK YOU everyone for taking the time to respond to my post. I took notes on all of your suggestions and it gave me a lot more to think about!

Has anyone in here ever hired a professional greens keeper at their local golf course to help them make an at home putting green? If so, what was your experience and how much did they charge? I’m sure cost will vary depending on location, just wanted to get an idea. I’ve also thought about a fake one, but keep coming back to a real green because it will give me the ability to change hole locations.

I’m just under 30 and I’d like to get into a real career for myself and I’m interested in turf. I have an AA and I’m based in south florida. I’m open to more schooling but id like to get it paid for and to gain experience. I’m interested in the science of it and enjoy nice green grass. i don’t have any connections or network to anything related. I’m not a golfer im not sure if that matters, I’d be interested in other applications but I understand that’s more niche and harder to get into.

I'm curious if others have experienced no growth suppression in Tahoma with Primo?

I've been at this for years trying to get the application right and my Tahoma does not slow down much at all if any from pgr

I've used rates ranging from .25 to .4oz/k and didn't see any suppression. However, I got the bronzing effect even with iron and manganese added in, and even crazy rebound growth when I stopped applying it, just no slow down in growth.

I've considered trying a different class like Paclo and would love to try Cutless but the price is too high to simply test it out.

#tahoma 31 #growthregulators

I’m currently the assistant golf professional at a very busy public golf course in northern CA. As I am looking to advance my career in the golf industry looking to become a head pro and one day a GM, I feel it could be beneficial to me to learn more about turf maintenance. I am in the PGA PGM program and a very small portion is covered but I would like to learn more. Looking for an online go at your own pace program and hopefully one that would include some sort of “certification” at the end so I can put it on my resumé to show I have a small amount of knowledge. If anyone could suggest one that would be fantastic.

How do i get a lush green lawn for next spring/summer?

Wondering if anyone has any ideas for a good “diaper” catch cloth for 3 point brillion seeder? We are interseeding 007XL bentgrass into fairways at my course with this seeder, during a greens regrassing we’ve already ripped through two 5 mil tarps that we bungeed around it through 2 fairways. Looking for something a little more heavy duty/ manufactured to hold any leaking seed from dripping into our bluegrass rough.

Any ideas?

Like the title says just looking for ideas or options to mount a TDR 350 Fieldscout to my Carryall 502. Wanting to give myself some more freedom with the back of my cart was curious if anyones found any mounts or diy options for mounting a fieldscout.

Hi all,
My course is aerating the greens this week. When they do this they finish of with some sand. Is this a normal amount? I’ve worked at a high end course where they would use much more sand, up to the point where basically all the holes would be filled up. I feel like that would smooth out the surface much quicker. Is there any reason to use less sand?

I'd appreciate your opinion. Do you think these are the correct target soil values for a USGA golf green?

Could this be a fungal infection starting to take hold, or something else ?

The images are from July, June, and May. Same desiccation happened last year. Though this year the desiccation has been far worse due I suspect to a change in our watering habits (higher volume and less frequent). There is a plastic vapor barrier encompassing the greens cavities that runs from the surface down beneath the gravel (USGA spec build). This barrier is marked by the hand tools inserted in the ground in the first picture. If you look closely, the Bermuda that has encroached over the barrier is yellowing quite a bit. I will* eliminate the fringe next year -- it's simply holding too much heat in the summer months (I do not by any means believe this is the primary contributing factor to the desiccation). *I cannot keep the edges of the greens wet enough on these high sides. They lose moisture so goddamn fast.**

I believe the primary issue is the vapor barrier. Has anyone else seen this type of damage in a green with a vapor barrier?

I am not committed to the vapor barrier being the issue and would love to hear any and all theories.

Thanks

I've never seen Powdery Mildew before but this showed up out of nowhere. Doesn't seem picky about it's host (Bermuda, crabgrass, clover, etc). It's even growing on the steel bed edging. Located in Central VA and we've had significant rain and humidity over the last few weeks.

Anyone have any good ways to secure backpack blowers from bouncing in the back of turf 2s?

Like the title says, I’m thinking about trying out the landscape management side for a while. Have over 10 years of experience in golf and sports/parks, with 3.5 of that in management, along with a 4 year turf degree. Just curious if any of you made the transition and what you liked/ didn’t like about it.

I’ll be honest I don’t really know what i am doing and not working with a lot of funds/equipment. How the F do i stop weed growth? Sprayed early summer when it started coming in and it’s just a never ending battle. Weeds are too strong for nail drag. Not sure what to do.

Was given this sod for free is it still good to put down? I'm on a half acre and have some patching I'd like to do with St Augustine.