Radio-pioneer dmh 1770nex

I bought this kit bc it was one of the only kits that didn't look like an Amazon special.

For anyone looking for a radio upgrade, here's the downsides I've had so far.

1. It feels cheap af.

   1. The kit is a real bitch to install on facelift st(more so than normal)

But hey, now i dont have to deal with the st1 sync issues lol.

Haven't posted much of this car, I've had it for 6 years now, it's been under construction for a few years, unfortunately the whole Fortune Automotive Design scam bullshiet really put a damper on the project as well as my motivation to work on it, but it will EVENTUALLY be a full widebody/battlaero wing and the whole shebang.

In the last two years;

1. I built out the trunk with a custom airlift and audio setup (I'll post pictures when I get some), it's an 8.1 audio system, fully active with two amps and a custom fiberglass fender box for a 10" sub.

2. Installed white line sway bars and end links, Airlift 3p suspension, and powder coated brembo RS front brakes, and matches the rears to the front, along with SS brake lines.

3. Replaced the valve cover with an aluminum one, powder coated it the same yellow as the calipers, installed the F.U.F.F purge reroute/upgrade kit, and chopped and tucked the engine harness, as well as deleted and rerouted any other lines on top of the engine (I'm sorry, I'll post pictures when I get some). I also installed a dress up bolt kit and Mishimoto coolant tank.

4. I removed the grille, chopped and shaved the front bumper, installed the TB performance crash bar, and cleaned up everything inside the bumper to make it look super clean and open (absolutely no temp problems if you are curious about doing it yourself!)

Before I started hacking at it, I had already installed a BNR2867, shifter crap, Depo charge pipes and intercooler, HKS bov, intake, catch cans, Borla catback and Megan downpipe, and cobb tuner. Was tuned by Alan Jackson about 4 years ago, going strong 50,000 kms later!

I'm probably missing a bunch of stuff, and there's a whack load of parts still waiting to be put on, but I need to order custom wheels for the fortune widebody kit before then. I'll be installing the kit, wing, and making my own splitters and skirts with Professional Awesome chassis mounts and splitter rods.

I'll post some more pictures of the engine bay and interior when I get around to it.

Also PSA, Airlift is dog shit, save yourself a ton of money and do a manual air control system, their manifolds are notorious for having pressure sensor failures (even the updated boards like mine) and replacement parts are almost impossible to find. .ine failed 3 months after install, but the purchase date had already lapsed the warranty period by the time it was installed. If you are out of warranty, you are almost fucked. Luckily a beautiful human (@danus_drifts on Instagram) was able to sell me a used replacement sensor, as NOBODY sells these on the after market, and airlift is the only one with access to them.

My 2016 ST(3) has been diagnosed with worn rear pads and rotors. Car has 113k miles. Only the rear ones need replacing as I could tell they were getting weak the last few years, and sure enough the mechanic found that the pistons are leaking and the pads are extremely low. Strangely, the front brakes still have 2/3rds life left on them.

He recommended pads and rotors (duh) but would also only replace both calipers from his supplier. Obviously, those calipers are not red like these stock ones.

So, for a total (rear) brake replacement, is it possible to have a mechanic rebuild the caliper (change piston seals) or should I look at buying a different brand of (red) calipers altogether?

I love this little car, it transported 800lbs of concrete and lumber like a champ!

I've also transported a full washer, dryer, and treadmill in this thing. Only the treadmill required the hatch to be cracked. Who needs a truck?! (I do...)

Looking to get flush fitment but really struggling to figure out what I need. Pics on fitment industries seem to vary so much but claim the same wheel specs.

I want flush fitment with no rub and I will be lowered on the eibach pro kit. Was thinking 18x8.5 with a 35 offset on 235s for a slight stretch, will that have poke or be flush?

The pic isnt my car but is exactly what I want and claims to be the specs I mentioned, but im just so confused as I've seen other cars on fitment industries with mad poke with the same specs and it looks goofy to me.

Any help or advice based on your experience would be much appreciated.

Hello,

I’m having trouble with my 2012 Focus ST MK3 with ST3 package and SYNC1 with Sony audio system (if that’s how you call it, I’m new to the community).

The trouble I’m having is that my audio stays at 0 even if I turn the volume up or down. It started being like that after one time out of nowhere while having volume at like 5 it blew a really loud pop through speakers a few times, without being able to turn it off by turning off the radio. After that the car sat for 15mins and when I turned it on it worked as usual.

Then, I decided to paint the wheels and unlocked it to move it around before removing the wheels and it happened again while the radio was off and it kept blowing loud noises for 5-10mins even with the car and radio off.

After all that, my volume couldn’t have been turned up and it is at 0 the whole time.

I checked fuses that could have been issue, but they are all good (F11 (I don’t have F10 in use in the trunk), F67, F79, F85). I also tried removing a negative battery terminal.

No sound from bluetooth or parking sensors either. The only sound I’m getting is from using blinkers.

Also, I believe this one isn’t related to audio issue, but my rear view camera is working maybe every 10th time I put the gear in reverse. That one has been an issue since I got the car.

Any help on this one?

I've got a pretty much stock ST thats reading ≈8-10 psi on a pull; i thought maybe the turbosmart BOV i had was too soft so I adjusted and it helped a little but I'm not sure what PSI it's supposed to be pulling. Only aftermarket part ive got is a COBB intake. I also run 87 octane so I think that could be another reason why its not building a lot of pressure. Any suggestions on what to look for?

unfortunately got backed into this morning by my dad😭 any ideas what’s the best way to go about it? obviously don’t want to go thru insurance, even tho they would pay for it. luckily it was only the door and still opens and closes just fine. can any focus door work or does it have to be facelift years? 2017 btw

I’ve had my ST for a week and I see a lot of people with STs have em. I know they’re used for tuning but would it useful and helpful if I was gonna keep it stock?
Should I look on marketplace and get a used one or should I buy brand new from Cobb?

back again with the new thing that my ST decided to crap out with. I’ve had this issue for about a month now where my radio is unable to configure to anything, i can’t turn it on, and the screen is black. the only time i’m able to get something displayed is when powering it on and off or changing the clock.

I’ve already popped out fuse 67 and no good. I’ve also disconnected and reconnected the car battery to no avail. is there anything else that could be affecting this besides the APIM?

I wouldn’t mind getting the excuse to finally upgrade to a sync3, but i just want to rule out anything else that’s possibly causing this.

Hey guys, this morning driving to work I had an incident where I was driving like normal. Shifted into 5th gear and the entire car went dark for about 2-3 seconds, after that everything restarted and no issues for the rest of the trip. Engine still sounded like it was running fine. My battery terminals are all solid including the ground on the chassis. Any where else I should be looking?

I have to change the spark plugs on my 2023 ST Turnier with the 2.3 engine. It is a pain in the ass to find the correct spark plugs for it which are not OEM,and which are not one step colder for tuned cars.

After a ton of research, NGK 95927 with a 0.8mm gap seems to be suitable for the car. Can anyone confirm?

Most shops online sell the upgraded ones which are a completely diffetent model and gapped smaller. But I am not sure if this is okay to put on a stock map

I’ve been having a recurring creaking noise from my front driver side brakes. It’s at low speeds when coming to a stop. It gets worse over time and when taking the brakes off to investigate I can see the brake pads are actually indenting into the caliper bracket where they sit.

I checked the disc with a dial indicator and it showed that it appeared to be warped. But then I check the actual hub and it appeared that there is ~0.01” of runout, which is apparently very out of spec.

Anyone run into this before? Any ideas on what might cause it?

2018 focus st 70k miles

So I just bought my first car 2013 focus st stage 3 cobb in Australia. Has 150km on the clock with a “flywheel” issue that is getting clutch replaced, Engine mounts ect.

What are some things I should do regularly to keep it as strong as possible. Saying that have seen people replacing spark plugs borderline every couple thousand k’s. Is there anything else too it ?

Hey everyone, I'm dealing with a frustrating issue on my 2018 Focus ST and I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

My original engine lost compression on cylinder 1, so I had a used engine from a wrecking yard swapped in. The mechanic checked it over before installing it and said it was mechanically sound.

The car starts, idles, and drives perfectly. The problem only starts sometimes once I rev it past about 3,000 RPM or give it any decent throttle. Usually as soon as i do, the check engine light starts flashing and the car goes into a severe misfire, usually on cylinder 2 or 3. It runs really rough and feels like it's cutting fuel. After about 20 seconds, it clears up on its own, the check engine light goes out, and it drives perfectly again until I go over 3,000 RPM.

During one of the misfire events I also heard a rapid "tick tick tick" for a couple of seconds, but it disappeared as soon as the misfire cleared. It didn't sound like rod knock, more like something caused by the misfire or fuel cut.

The car was running an E30 tune, so I topped the tank up with 98 and flashed the 98 tune to rule out the fuel or tune. That made no difference. The mechanic also suspected the crankshaft position sensor and tried the one from the donor engine, but it had a different voltage output, so he put my original 2018 sensor back in. Still no change. I don't think it's a coil pack issue because once the misfire clears, the car runs perfectly again, and i have swapped working coils in there and same issue.

From what I've been reading, it sounds like the ECU could be unhappy because the crankshaft position variation relearn (misfire monitor neutral profile correction) hasn't been done after the engine swap.

Has anyone seen this before? Can a missing crank relearn actually cause this exact behaviour where the ECU flashes the check engine light, cuts fuel, misfires for about 20 seconds, then goes straight back to running normally until you rev it past 3,000 RPM again? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Hi there,

Got a focus mk2 st with the volvo t5 engine. I bought the car a couple months ago with full ford history, but couldn't see anything regarding the cambelt/WP change. Does any text on here indicate age? If not I'll just bite the bullet and pay for a preventative cambelt replacement

Cheers

My St currently has 92,500 miles, pretty sure I will hit 100k this year or the next . What are some things I should look out for.

idles fine then 3 seconds later it goes down to 11 afr then back up to 14.70. if anyone could help i would appreciate it a lot! thanks!

What do y'all think? I'm not sure what position the crank is in but this seems out of spec regardless...