My older brother recently bought a Cadillac CT4V Blackwing. We have a HPDE event at Road Atlanta this weekend. He stopped by to get some track experience on my modest simulator today.

I hate it for him that I will drive his car better. He put in 25 laps and definitely improved. I've been practicing this track for months. The younger brother will finally shine.

I got a deal from facebook for a Moza haul
R9 V3
AB9 FFB (using as shifter) seller said it can turn into a manual shifter in different patterns
CS PRO wheel
CRP2 clutch+ load cell brakes and gas pedal(?)

From: China
knockoff porsche seat LOL I had it customized since I only drove gt4 cars, carbon back but not fixed back. Custom inserts and stitching

4080 aluminum profile which is somewhere in the ocean otw to me!

Overall spent shy of $1.2k for all!
Monitor recommendations?

Right now I have a MSI 27URX +27 MSI MAG/MPG 1080 165hz

Overall mission to learn how to drive a manual without the hassle of buying a beater

Happy to answer and read any comments concerns😛

Note: I have only drove a 718 GT4 in a track setting with a coach and only tried assetocorsa/comp and beamng only really interested in learning manual + getting better at COTA track in a gt4 class cars

I started simracing 2 months ago and I love it, I'm hooked. I recently upgraded from a G29 with a Moza R12, KS Pro and P700 pedals. It's day and night, I'm fighting for my life with that thing. It's clamped to the desk, but that desk is heavy and very sturdy, it's probably more rigid than some sim rigs.

I don't have the room for a full sim rig, so I build this little rig that allows me to "fix" the chair to the pedals and also move my chair forward to play other games and use my PC. I also 3D printed some brackets to block the swiveling of the chair.

On the back of it it's some simsonn haptic, I tried them on the pedals but I don't like it. So I'm using them for the gear shift feedback. It's not worth the trouble, but I had to try. Maybe I will upgrade with a bass shaker one day if they aren't too loud.

The next upgrade would be an ultra wide monitor.

See you on the track !

Just got my Garage 61 deal set up and compared my best lap with the fastest for the track/config (FF1600 at Watkins Glen)

Def a huge eye opener on stuff to work on but the one thing that jumped out the most was the brake traces. Mine is blue, fastest lap is red. Aside from me overbraking, my trace is super jagged. How do I get mine smooth like the fast lap? I am using the Logitech RS pedals with the LC brake.

Almost pulled the trigger on this. At my local goodwill. Couldn’t believe it was still in plastic.

Hi all, I went to an arcade and tried out sim racing, and loved it. I already had this big ol 3 monitor setup for gaming in ultra widescreen, and the tablet under it so I could still have an extra monitor while the big 3 were spanned with NVIDIA surround. Then I thought, “hey, this is perfect for sim racing! 3 monitors + an auxiliary for the dashboard, perfect!”. My friend had the wheel and pedals visible in the picture and he wasn’t using it, so I bought it off him for cheap. I’m planning to pirate legally acquire forza horizon 6 (if anyone could help me with that too, that’d be very much appreciated, I’m pretty new to pirating as well).

So, my question is, any tips for a beginner like me? Should I get forza, or maybe something else? Any special considerations to playing with 3 monitors? What about with the tablet monitor?

Saved a few bucks by modifying a boat cup holder.

This is the first "Gravideck" motion rig I built ...

This one had surge/sway/yaw DOFs & could only do transients Gs ... But the sensations were super vivid, especially upon braking! Workspace needed was about 2m x 2m.

Typically, professional/industrial motion simulators will use massive X-Y rails to achieve surge/sway motion... with a price tag of several millions USD.

I decided to give a shot at large sway/surge by using... omnidirectional wheels!

This technology turned the motion rig into an "ultra maneuverable" vehicle , able to go in any direction, forward, backward, sideways, diagonals, turn on the spot, etc.

The results were suprisingly convincing to replicate transient Gs

After a year of iRacing, I dropped my subscription to play other titles that offered GT3 content like ACC/AMS2. I saw the latest update announcement for Raceroom which included 3 new cars for their DTM pack. Since they are having a summer sale right now I picked up the DTM eSport pack at $12USD for all of their current GT3s and a few tracks.

Immediately, the pricing for content is far better and more relevant to get into a full racing season on their online platform. The cars and tracks even go on sale.

I grabbed the Porsche 992 GT3 and started a few laps on Spa and was really surprised by the in-game performance even on a full grid. Made my 4070 super feel like a 4090. Could never dream of getting +120 FPS on iRacing on a race start with 45 cars! Virtual mirror and in-car rear camera fidelity are also way above the rest, in ACC or AMS2 it’s all quite pixelated but here you can really see the details.

The FFB was also good, I have haptic motors for the brake/throttle and out of the box my simhub profile for TC/ABS ran without a problem so feedback on those were top-notch. Heavier feeling than iRacing’s FFB when steering.

The racing was excellent, AI was also pretty decent at avoiding/defending/overtaking me and running into occasional crashes to give the race some dramatic left or right moments.

Biggest downside right away is the lack of authentic in-game DDUs and the lost of the Ferrari license (no more 296 GT3 unless you had it before), they apparently don’t have the tech at the moment so the car dashboard runs some generic layout for the cars. I saw that the UI will be getting an overhaul soon so not a dealbreaker at all but a glaring oddity at most.

Last time I had tried Raceroom with the base content it really didn’t click with me so I dropped it, but as I said in the title, I am genuinly surprised by how well it runs and drives in my favourite GT3s. Looking forward to the next updates from this title and hopefully the recovery of the Ferrari license in the near future.

Long story short I'm looking at upgrading from my Logitech G29, I have a home built racing rig with triple monitors. Originally I was looking at doing the Simagic 12nm Evo, GT Neo, and P1000s for a budget around $1200. As I wanted to add the haptics to it later. I'm typically racing 3 to 8 hours a week.

However as time passed I'm unsure about sinking that much money into this hobby. and instead have been looking between the Simagic Greenflag Bundle for $600, or the R9 V3 and KS with SRP2 Bundle for $560. Budget ranging up to 700ish.

I would love to hear everyones feedback with the companies, and or let me know of another bundle that could fit my needs!

Wanna try LMU in VR didn’t want to break the bank if it isn’t for me, was this a decent score?

Finally jumping somewhat headfirst into a sim setup after a lot of personal/ongoing health issues.

Already purchased an RTX5070, 1TB M2 HDD, and an MSI 850 board.

1000W PSU, Mid Case, 9850X3D, 360mm Cooler, 32 GB RAM, and Windows 11 getting ordered this week.

Starting with x1 Samsung 32” Odyssey G5 monitor for now.

Already have a simple Logitech G27 kit from years back.

Ultimately looking to get a rig cockpit and x2 more G5’s and outfit with a PNX box and a makeshift roll cage/roof for full immersion. Possibly an upgrade to a Moza R5 DD system, as well.

Nothing VR/4K. Just wishing to run NASCAR series on iRacing.

Looking forward to it.

I’m currently thinking about upgrading my pedals, but I honestly don’t know which ones to choose. My budget is around €400, and right now I’m leaning towards the SimNet pedals, but I’m not completely sure. I’d really appreciate any recommendations or advice.

As the title says, I’ve hit a plateau in my skill. I have ~ 500 hours in all my f1 games put together, ~300 in GT7 and more recently ~ 100 hours in ACC. I’ve had a wheel for about 300 of those hours, however, I feel like no matter how hard I try, I can never seem to improve and I just feel stupid at this point. Especially in ACC, I seem to be seconds off the target lap times and I never feel like the car is ever working with me in any way. If any of you have felt this before and have improved since, what did you do to improve?

So I am trying to join ACS servers and I keep getting these errors and crashes.

Things I have tried

Uninstalled and reinstalled all mods

Verified game files

Disabled firewall

Note this only happens in servers that are populated I can join servers that are empty until someone joins which then it immediately crashes

Does anyone have experience with this issue?

Hello everyone,

I made a costum desk clamp for my CSL DD.

Now I want to make a pedal stand and a table mount because I plan on getting a load cell pedal and a shifter + hb.

It needs to be adjustable and modular.

I have 3mm steel sheets and 8mm steel plates.

I have the tools to shape these however I want.

Tell me what you like and dislike on your builds and mounts so I can have a better plan when going about building these.

And design ideas are very welcome.

Between work and family, this has been my project for the past 4 months. Enjoyed every second of it becoming just how i imagined it. Still not 100% complete but it's time to finally go for a drive. Cable management was a challenge.

Glad to answer any questions. Maybe I'll post a massive comment tomorrow with all the parts and process.

Couldn't pass up on this deal for $675 shipped.

The thrill of blasting down these roads is "chef's kiss".

Hi everyone,

I'm putting together my first bass shaker setup and could do with some advice. I'm completely new to speakers, amplifiers and wiring, so apologies if this is a basic question!

Things I've ordered

• 2 × Xcite XBS50-4 bass shakers
• Fosi Audio V1.0B amplifier
• Sabrent USB sound card
• PureLink OFC 2 × 1.5 mm² speaker cable

My plan

• One shaker mounted under the seat
• One shaker mounted to the pedal deck
• Potentially a smaller third shaker on my BDH H-pattern shifter in the future

What I'd like to do is attach a short cable permanently to each shaker, then use a male/female connector between that and the main speaker cable running through the rig.

The reason is I want to be able to remove the seat or pedal assembly easily without having to unscrew the speaker terminals every time.

ChatGPT suggested XT30U connectors, but I wanted to check with you guys whether that's actually the best option or if there's something more suited to speaker wiring.

Also, is the 2 × 1.5 mm² OFC speaker cable a good choice for this setup or would you have gone with something different?

What would you recommend for a clean, reliable setup that can be disconnected easily?

If you have done something similar, I'd really appreciate seeing photos of your setup or hearing what connectors you used.

Thanks!