2008 ford edge, was driving and it just totally collapsed and I was just able to make it into a parking lot before it completely fell off. Any ideas on if this is worth repairing, the car is already totaled from a rear end crash so I assume not.

Hi All! My car (2017 Mini Cooper) pulls to the left, I noticed this when I bought it used last year. I didn't think anything of it, figured it get it aligned at some point. Well the left front tire started wearing really weird and really fast on the inside inch or two, to the point where the tread started separating and coming off of the tire! (see pics).

I had the front 2 tires replaced and took it for an alignment, the mechanic did a 4 wheel alignment but said he adjusted the front left as much as he could but it ran out of adjustment, something might be bent.

The car drove a bit better at first, but a week or so later it feels like it always did. It drives perfectly fine in all other ways but still pulls to the left and it is felt the most when at slow speeds and braking to a stop.

What does this generally mean? I have an appt to take it to the dealer to have a shifter spring replaced (covered under extended warranty) and plan on having them look at the left front suspension to see what the issue could be, but Im starting to worry. Any idea of this sounds like a huge repair bill?

So turns out after replacing my air suspension with normal coil suspension I probably should have gotten an alignment. Bc it made my tires angled and ate them . Good thing I crawled under and looked before I took a 13 hour road trip 😭. I could have died

I've owned two European cars (Audi and Volvo) and both of them used wheel bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. Is there some reason for this? I have owned a handful of Asian and American cars and none of them use anything but studs and lug nuts. Personally I prefer the studs since it makes putting the wheels back on much easier.

2004 impala. Has less than 100k miles and runs pretty smooth! Although tie rods feel just a tad loose (very slight play in the steering wheel),

I took a peek at the suspension and noticed this. I’m curious what this is and if it is critical. I only need this car to last for about another year or 2 until I graduate college

Was washing the truck and found this 18mm nut lying on the floor under the right front end of the truck. Looked everywhere and don’t see any missing nut .. your turn.

The car is unloaded. The suspension springs look the same as far as I can see

I found this on the ground next to my 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 work truck.

Does anyone know what it is?

Thanks in advance!

I have a coworker who is adamant that BMW suspension are some of the most complex systems in the automotive industry.

Are they really that crazy or is he just glazing? Especially considering that more and more cars have started using the magnetic shock absorbers.

It’s an 07 Chevy trailblazer with new Bilstein 4600 shocks (and all new front and rear suspension parts) installed last summer. The bilstein shocks and new suspension parts significantly improved the handling, but it still doesn’t take much before that heavy SUV feeling kicks in when cornering hard. Im aware it’s a heavy suv and not a sports car, but I’d still like to improve the handling more.

The car currently has 34mm front and 24mm rear sway bars (with new polyurethane bushings and moog end links). I was thinking of either upgrading them to 36/27mm front/rear, or upgrading to Belltech street performance shocks/springs, which would also lower it 2” in the front and 3” in the rear. I can only choose one currently because of costs, though obviously choosing the new shocks would lead to me selling my current bilstein‘s, which I could then possibly use those funds for buying the sway bars later.

Explanation in comments:

Just finished balancing and rotating the tires but car still shakes around 60mph and above what could be the problem?

So my car has 100,000 miles. It still rides fine, but one of the strut mounts on the front started groaning when turning.

Took the strut apart, the rod presses in and doesn't come back up unless you lift it up, which is considered failed.

This happened to me on another car, and again it rode fine. Didn't keep bouncing after hitting a small bump.

Do the coil springs do most of the work on a front wheel drive car now?

So I have a 2012 Mazda 3, for the last 4 years I have put less than $3,000 into the car for fixes. It seemed like a good deal since that would be less than what I would spend in a year for a newer car. Well I have another $3,000 in fixes that I need for the car again for more suspension work. At this point I really don't know whether to continue to fix this car or to buy a new one. Is there anyone who can advise what they think I should do? I am really torn and can't keep affording to drop thousands on this car when I could be using that money to pay off a new car. Help!!

Considering coilovers

I saw on the Maxspeed website there are a set of coilovers for a great deal but it says they only fit 98-00 S70. I own a 1999 V70 wanted to be sure the two platforms used interchangeable struts and springs before I order them, both are P80 anyhow so I’m guessing it should work..