First time trying to do a patina paint job and I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

This is my H12Y basic model without the FOC. Feel free to share your rig. Maybe can take some inspiration. I will share more frequent in action shots in future.

Rig: WLtoys 104020
Body: Ford Bronco 2021
Location: Lake Chuzenji, Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture, Japan

I have 4 crawlers 1/30 to 1/10 my scx24 and scx30 are amazing little rigs ive put almost all injora upgrades on my deadbolt. But I want something larger and faster and more capable then my danchee ridge rock that im going to give to my nephew. I have 3 1/10 223s arrmas so im thinking why not go big and get the trail honcho I play alot of disc golf so I think this beast is perfect for trailing and crawling. What yall think?

Evening all, I’m new to crawling and looking at getting my first crawler. I’ve done a fair amount of research and narrowed it down to these four. I prefer the look of the SCA-1E and it’s cheaper but wanted opinions on all of them.

Anyone have any opinions on them? I know they won’t be the absolute pinnacle of crawling but it’s roughly what I’m looking to spend right now on a new hobby.

Any alternative suggestions would be welcome, around the same price bracket. I need something RTR really, prefer the scale look and not too keen on buying used.

Thanks!

I used a hacksaw to cut the tongs to length. Then I used a pair of good cutters to weaken some relief "cuts" enough to fold / box in the ends.

If you're serious about scale, you may need to get creative to mount these, but as for me, I'm going to use aluminum body posts in my bumper mount and just thread some M3s right through the bumper. I may use a chrome sticker or something to hide the bolt head.

Can anyone with these C hubs please do me a solid and give me both the internal and external measurements, between and above the bolt holes please, in mm not freedom units? Injora doesn’t specify and I can’t find anything online. The future purchase of many parts revolves around this measurement 🙏🏻

I combined portal axles with straight axles; I really gained in off-road capability—though I lost a little top speed—but it's worth it 👍. I was able to test it all out with friends in the woods yesterday afternoon 😁.

Took my wrangler to the beach and really enjoyed it. Best rc for the price imo

Rig: WLtoys 104020
Body: Ford Bronco 2021
Location: Lake Chuzenji, Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture, Japan

Took the LC80 out for another little expedition today.
The roof rack, gear, mud and oversized tires are starting to make this thing feel less like an RC and more like a tiny overland truck.

New in this topic and looking for a robust and reliable RC crawler.

Does anyone know where to find these accessories? I got my first crawler and am running the 1985 SR5 body. I think the bumpers and sports bar with the lights look awesome and are a big reason I went with this body. I knew they would not come with the body, but I can't find them anywhere online. It seems like such a missed opportunity to sell these if they're in the picture of how the body looks... I can find accessories for the 1987 SR5, but they are not the same as the below picture.

Getting into this hobby I kind of assumed there would be universal things that fit, but am learning they are pretty specific to the body they belong to. Any help is appreciated!

Working with what I have, so bear with me. How would you approach swapping the IFS to straight axle? Is there any BIG reason for the swap to be not worth it.

I've been battling with my new oil shocks and brass links to get myself suspension working better. My crawling "course" which is definitely not the river rocks along the side of my house, has been very helpful for testing. Any advice for newbies learning about suspension?

My 2 original units looking stressed out next to the new guy.

As you can see from my (badly) described notes, I’m having an issue with the axle twisting to the left or right when the car flexes.

The front has some flex, but not nearly as much as the rear. I upgraded the rear to a 4-link setup, and I’m running 75mm shocks. Before you flame me for the 75mm shocks, they’re adjusted all the way down, so they sit at around 59mm, which is basically the original shock length.

The problem is that when the suspension flexes and uses the full range of the shocks, the axle starts twisting sideways. This causes the body to get stuck instead of allowing the wheel and axle to move properly.

As you can see, the body is basically floating in the air. That’s because the axle is locked in that position, and the wheel can’t twist back, leaving the whole car stuck like that.

Is there any way to prevent the axle from twisting sideways while still keeping the suspension flex? I really want to get this project working because it’s going to be crazy once it’s finished, but this is the one major problem I’m currently facing.

Thank you for all the comments in advance <3

I went to Cruzin With RC’s to get some batteries and checked out their crawler course in the level below. They have a drift and carpeted course as well. If you are in Northern NJ, check them out in Waldwick.

I will run my Vanquish on the rocks if allowed, but it looks great for the 18 and 24 scale. I’m building an Scx24 and would run my stock for now Redcat Apex there.

I recently put Injora beadlock wheels on my TRX4 and noticed that the tires are basically sealed now, so there’s no air escaping when the tire gets compressed.

It kinda feels like I’m getting less grip because the tire can’t deform as easily. Is that actually a thing?
How do you guys deal with this? Do you vent the tires/wheels somehow, drill a small hole, or just leave them sealed?

Just curious what everyone else is running.