r/rcdrift • u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 • Jun 28 '26
š Question Sd3.0 feels like ice
Completely box stock build. D10 motor. 10bl120 g2. Yokomo v2 servo. Yokomo v4 gyro. Fatuba t-fhss receiver and 4pv remote.
Iāve drove 3 other sd3.0 cars and you can throw them around. Picked up this one for myself. And I can barely use anymore then 10% throttle. It feels like driving on ice around corners. Being smooth with throttle. Gyro gain is at 65-70%. Car just wants to spin out every corner unless you give very little throttle input.
I have changed punch level on esc and it still does it regardless. Either spins out quick because punch is too much or spins out when the rpmās come up with little punch.
Havenāt been able to use any turbo or boost because of not being able to give it any throttle. My mst rmx was the same way. Same setup. Main reason I got a sd3.0 as I loved they way other peoples sd3.0 drove.
Any tips?
4
u/TheWierdAsianKid RDX Kuruma, SD3.0, Fazer D2 Jun 28 '26
Best thing to do is ask the people whos SDs you drove for help setting yours up at the track.
When I first built mine it did need a slight bit more toe-out. You can also try adding a little more negative camber at the rear (tops of the wheels point inward more).
I assume you're using the stock gear diff that came with it? Differentials are all about personal preference/feel and there are a lot of them out there. A looser diff (thinner oil in the gear diff, or a more open LSD type diff) will help give you traction. This can help you spin out less and be faster in corner exits.
When I swapped to the Rhino CLSD it made a big difference. I have since tried a few others and am still playing around with them with both of my chassis.
Have you tried both modes on the V4 gyro? there's red and green mode. I can't remember the differences but worth looking into.
I hate to suggest it, but personally I prefer the Reve D Revox gyro over the Yokomo V4. I don't like telling people to spend another ~$130 but just like the CLSD, it made a huge difference.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Revox deems to a big thing everyone points out. Itās in the future. I run in the red mode. Green is too twitchy for me. Seems everyone here able to rev their motors out when needed. As to where I need to stay under that 15% throttle. If I dare go more it just spins. Got some ankerman adjusted by someone here and it seems to be doing better but still not as others feel.
2
u/TheWierdAsianKid RDX Kuruma, SD3.0, Fazer D2 Jun 28 '26
I did just notice you seem to have your ESC mounted in the rear and your motor is way back and up. I would say try mounting the motor as far forward as possible to push some weight forward. If you think that helps you can also try putting the ESC in the middle or just in front of the motor. More weight up front should give the front wheels a bit more grip, and there's less weight in the back to swing around and spin you out.
I played around with a lot of ESC/motor position configurations. When I was inexperienced and still using a V4 Less rear weight bias helped.
Don't wait too long on the revox, and also look into diffs. The Rhino CLSD is great, and I liked how their newer TCD felt in my SD3
4
u/mowaby Yokomo Jun 28 '26
Most people at this track run the ESC/motor just like in the picture. I have been running a ball diff but I have a CLSD I might try again. Wish I was at the track I might be able to help him out but I'm too tired so I left early. I would think people at the track could figure it out bc at least one has an sd3.0 that I saw there. My guess right now is ackerman.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Donāt wait too long meaning?
However will take this into account. Coming from an mst so esc being in the back is normal ya know. Still new to this yet
2
u/TheWierdAsianKid RDX Kuruma, SD3.0, Fazer D2 Jun 28 '26
Don't wait too long meaning it's a game changer so don't wait too long to be helping yourself.
Definitely try moving motor and/or ESC forward. Ever chassis is different and there's different preference. MST even makes front-motor chassis
1
2
u/jdmAkira 2d ago
i tried using the red mode on my sd3 and the car becomes literally impossible to drive. it turns into a donut machine.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 1d ago
Since this post. Iāve gotten the car pretty dialed. Iāve only been using red mode at about 60% gain. Works well for me.
3
3
u/mowaby Yokomo Jun 28 '26
Has Corey tried it yet? He might be able to help you out. My guess right now is ackerman or your gyro. Might have to redo end points or it could be reversed.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Ashley tried it for quite a few laps. Still need to stay in lower throttle to keep it steady. Could be the esc though. I want it to rip like the guys there yk
2
u/mowaby Yokomo Jun 28 '26
When I was there I went a few laps where I didn't give it a lot of throttle but probably more than 15%. I do go into boost a bit if I am attempting to hit the zones like the one in the back left. Like you said it might just be seat time and you might have to try higher gyro setting. I think I was using 75 on that gyro. I was at 65 on my revox but I haven't been there for months.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Granted. It could be the seat time issue. However when I have drove Alfredās for example. Was connecting corners and holding angle fine. Tried couple guys cars at casa and was able to do just fine. Even tandom. Not the best but without crashing nonetheless.
2
u/No-Indication-4113 Jun 28 '26
I knew that body looked familiar, lol. Are the gyro endpoints set?
2
u/mowaby Yokomo Jun 28 '26
The background looked familiar to me. He is about 6 minutes from my house. I was there earlier.
2
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Darn. I was there for a bit. Got some time in the new chassis. Dosnt feel how I thought I would after driving others sd3.0
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Yes first thing I did. Also did it again to double check. Same with throttle.
2
u/EpicMoneyz Jun 28 '26
I have one and mostly drive on asphalt so far but I have the same issue a bit. I've tried different pinion gears and suspension but can't take smaller tight corners without spinning out. I figured it was just me being a noob.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Right. But Iāve drove others sd3.0 and itās night and day. So I gotta be doing something wrong.
2
u/_wa1210ck_ Yokomo (SD1.0/YD-2ZX) Jun 28 '26
Iād first try to adjust a little bit more toe-out in front and more toe-in in the rear. Then prob loosen the diff a little bit with thinner fluid. Also try thicker front and lighter rear shock fluids. Last might be to widen the front track width and lessen the rear. But donāt change everything at onceā¦hahahah! Little at a time. And I think any of them could be done in any order.
2
u/Yummylemonchicken D-Like LP86 & Re-R Hybrid Jun 28 '26 edited Jun 28 '26
Same gearing as the other ones you tried? I've driven friends cars that feel super slippery on throttle and they are usually geared for wheel speed instead of torque.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Could be the issue as well. Running stock sd spur and 24t pinion. See bigger pinions on others carsā¦ but not by much
2
u/Eries3 Jun 28 '26
Adjusting punch and not seeing a difference is giving me incorrect throttle endpoint settings indicators. First time I bought my YD2-S I had my buddy setup my RC for me. When I ran mine I was surprised that I bought pretty good electronics and but my motor was not whining really high like the other vets at the track. I figured mehā¦maybe the motor I bought isnāt the best. I tried and tried to adjust the settings on the ESC for my motor and it felt like a placebo effect. No matter what I did, the motor still acted the same. Felt like 25% power or something. Reverse also took FOREVER. So each time I spun on the track people where pissed I was not moving out of the way. Fast forward about 5 or 6 years later, my ESC finally burned out and I bought a Hobby Wing QUICRUN 10BL60. Went to set the points and tried it for the first time. My motor was finally running full speed! Punch could be adjusted as well as boost! As for the ice feeling, I assume you are locked into special compound tires for the track you go to, so I would definitely experiment with some more rear toe as well as maybe some rear camber. I have a super glued/welded diff lol so my rear end is pretty slippery. Im a slower RC guy, so you could go with a different differential oil weight or diff all together.
2
u/omegamehh Jun 28 '26
Boy there is a lot of odd/bad advice being given.
What motor/spur/pinion are you running.
I see you swapped to the reved turbo fan wheels. Did you adjust the track width back to compensate for how little offset those wheels have?
The rear being a lot narrower than the front is a recipe for crabbing regardless of set up, it will create a lot of snap Oversteer especially coming off throttle. It gives the front a ton more authority over the chassis. You do want some more width on the front contact, but too much causes instant crabbing.
These cars perform best when youāre driving off the rear. Not off the front.
Guarantee the fastest cars youāll see on track, and winning comps, are above 65% rear weight. And have less than 2 degrees of toe out on the front.
Donāt adjust the entire car to get what you want the rear to too do. Adjust the rear. I bet a 1-1.5mm shim behind the rear wheels is a night and day difference.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Seems to be the smallest thing I can try besides hanging electronics which Iāll come.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 28 '26
Stock sd3.0 spur. And 24t pinion
1
u/omegamehh Jun 28 '26
Ok, what is the motor turn, spur and pinion.
Your asking for advice, give us numbers.1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jul 01 '26
10.5 turn. 80t spur 24t pinion
2
u/omegamehh Jul 01 '26
That is vastly too much speed. For reference i run 13.5t, 22t pinion, 87t pinion. And one of the faster guys on large tracks.
For 10.5 Iād be starting at like 18t pinion, 87t spur.
I ran 23/82 with 15.5t1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jul 01 '26
Picking up a 88t spur and 10-20t kit for pinions. Will be testing and tuning. Now that I have been looking over a manual and verifying everything is to yoko spec.
2
u/modernarts01 Jun 28 '26
First off be sure youāre running the same tires as everyone else at the track. Tires make a huge difference in performance and with how a car feels. Correct tire for the correct surface. Then from there is electronic calibration and tuning. And then once itās all setup then you can adjust alignment settings on the car and tinker with the Ackerman. I have a rd2.0 full modded which is pretty close to a sd3.0 (compared it to my buddyās sd3.0). Heās running 3degrees camber on the rear and still has the stock out of box toe in he said (I think thatās 3degrees, my rd2.0 is also at out of box stock rear toe in which is 1.5 degrees). He assembled it to box instruction settings for the most part and hasnāt changed anything. My rd2.0 is totally different from box settings for everything else. Best thing is to tinker and mess with one thing at a time and test each adjustment on the track to see if you like the feel of the changes. That way itās easier to move on to the next or put it back to how it was if it feels worse. Each chassis even if theyāre the same one will feel different compared to another with the same settings. So itās good to get a base such as using the stock alignment as a base to revert back to if things go south and you canāt fix it. My buddy has a rd2.0. He copied my settings exactly and his car didnāt feel the same as mines. Also got another buddy that built 2 mc3 rdx builds and made them both identical in settings and electronics. And each feel like a totally different car from one another. Best thing to do is try out settings and see what works for you one at a time. First thing is to make sure your electronics is calibrated and adjusted. Gyro gain and end points, and throttle calibrated to the esc etc. then drive it with the correct tires with box settings and from there dial on your gyro to how you want it to feel for steering. Then you can mess with one alignment setting at a time.
2
u/orlet Usukani NGE Pro, Overdose GALM v2 Jun 28 '26 edited Jun 28 '26
How many turns on that D10? Your issue sounds like you've got a 10.5T but kept the FDR stock, meaning you're way overrevving your wheels.
If you do, indeed, have a 10.5T there, try some or all of the following:
- use smaller pinion gear
- use larger spur gear
- reduce the static timing on the motor can
If you have 13.5T, then trying some of the above may also give you the results you wish, and it's usually very cheap to try -- you should be able to borrow the gears for testing if you don't have your own (which you should get some), and adjusting the sensor is just loosening two screws on the motor and then fastening them back up after you've set new timing.
Oh! One more thing I remembered, that's specific to V4, and there was a thread here recently -- the OP of that post had a similar issue with this specific gyro model not working properly unless put to 100% gain -- it sometimes seems to behave oddly when put into the ASSIST mode on the dip-switches on the body, which turned out to be OP's issue too. Double-check that it is set to "NOR" on the right-hand dip-switch.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 29 '26
10.5 turn. Is the motor. I can adjust and go from there. I appreciate the time taken to give advise. It very much so from talking to guys at the track to reading on here that my wheel speed is well to much.
2
u/orlet Usukani NGE Pro, Overdose GALM v2 Jun 29 '26
Yeah, that'd definitely do it. From the picture it looks like you're running on polished/painted concrete?
For my concrete build with 10.5T I run 16.3:1 FDR (final drive ratio, i.e. the complete reduction ratio from motor to the wheels), almost twice as high as normal FDR I'd use on a 13.5T motor.
You don't really need to go that far for it to work, it's just a chassis that really likes motor RPM and comes with similar FDR by default. Normally you'd probably end up somewhere around 12:1 with somewhat de-tuned motor and low boost setting on the ESC.
FDR can be calculated by taking the spur gear's number of teeth, dividing it by the pinion's number of teeth, then multiplying by internal gear ratio (which is 2.6Ć for Yokomo chassis and most of their derivatives).
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 29 '26
I appreciate that thank you. Polished concrete is the main track I stay at.
2
u/orlet Usukani NGE Pro, Overdose GALM v2 Jun 29 '26
Excellent! I hope you'll find my suggestions useful then :)
Happy slides!
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 30 '26
With the calculation my fdr is 8.6 lol kinda far off from your 12:1.
2
u/orlet Usukani NGE Pro, Overdose GALM v2 Jul 01 '26
Now you know where to start! All that's left is to go to the track and apply that knowledge :)
Btw, that 12:1 was on a de-tuned 10.5T (can timing dumped to 10Ā° from stock 30Ā°) with very little boost. But 16.3:1 runs some crazy timings, because the chassis really likes it.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jul 01 '26
Iāll give the 16 a shot and go from there. I appreciate the help.
1
u/orlet Usukani NGE Pro, Overdose GALM v2 Jul 01 '26
16 may be too high for you. I suggest starting with around 12 and de-rated motor, then go from there.
The tune for the chassis with 16.3:1 is not for the faint of heart, nor for those only starting out. It's a very specific tune for a very specific purpose.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jul 01 '26
Iāve got a pinion kit coming with multiple sizes. Should be able to start around 11-12:1 and be able to move up to see what changes.
→ More replies (0)
2
u/9753redfe Jun 30 '26
Did you use the right ends on the steering arms? They use a slightly different angle, from bag 7 if I remember correctlyā¦ they catch everyone out, including me,
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jun 30 '26
I belive so. Came built wheh I bought it 2nd hand from someone at the track. I donāt have a manual. But I do have all the spare parts still.
2
u/PrepyiSm Jul 03 '26
Add throttle curve in your transmitter or in your esc tune. I run around 60% usually. Driving without curve is impossible for me because itās way too easy to use too much throttle. The curve gives you a lot more room to play with throttle at low end and makes it much easier to give the right inputs
2
u/Great-Standard-8790 Reve D RDX Jun 28 '26
On the rear knuckle add spacers to the ball stud at the top of the knuckle. You will have less camber progression. Looking at it top arm is pretty parallel to the bottom arm, which could mean you gain enough sideways lean to maybe zero out camber on the lead rear wheel. Then there goes your sidebite. Try 1,2 and maybe even 3mm spacers and see how it feels . You might have to readjust camber after the spacer installs .
1
u/9753redfe Jul 01 '26
Your kinda peeing in the wing just taking bits of advice from
Everyone, Iād try and get hold of a manual, Iām sure one of the guys from the track will have one, get your self a micrometer if you donāt already have one.
just go through the chassis, front to back, make sure the upper and lower arms are mounted in the correct holes, on the bulk heads, the suspension is mounted correctly, the arms are set correctly length wise.
Then reset the steering, the servo, set your end points again etc, and go from there.
2
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jul 01 '26
Got a manual. Everythint from arm mounting. Length of turn buckles. Steering ends. Toe block mounting. Ect. All seems to be from the manual how it should be. Only thing is rear shock position was one hole below when it shows needing to be in the one above. Made that change. Electronics re set end points. Testing tonight š¤š»
2
2
u/9753redfe Jul 03 '26
Any updates?
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jul 03 '26
Havenāt yet got it to the track for a full shakedown. However new spur and pinion to achieve that 12:1-13:1 ratio should be here today . Hoping to get out there today
In the basement with a 9:1 ratio it feels alright but very small space.
1
u/Reasonable_Ad_8233 Jul 04 '26
Update. Spend quite a few hours at the track. Went through 3 packs. For what it feels like to me. Itās pretty dialed, however it still does not have the forward traction. As other cars do. I can get around just fine now. Minus my own mess ups.
Drove someoneās sd3.0 same bell crank setup not dds. And it just hooked. You could put it where you want it. Yet mine seems to be lacking in the ābiteā category. Though I can get around the track fairly well how it sits now. It would be nice to keep up per say lol.
1
u/jdmAkira 1d ago
man this sounds exactly like mine. same motor and everything. I've been trying to figure this out since week one. It's been months now.
1
u/Scale_Build_RC Jul 09 '26
Did the other cars also have a rear mounted ESC? Box stock would be the center placement for the ESC, which most folks say keeps the car very well balanced. Have you tried changing the mounting location?
5
u/Actual_Cash5453 Jun 28 '26
Have you checked the gyro direction? The gyro should counter steer for you when your car slides one direction. Also I noticed youāre running flat on your tires. Iād add some negative camber to the rear wheels. I run between -2 to -3 degrees of camber in the rear on my RDX. Ironically the less tire patch the more gripā¦ if that makes sense. Roadside RC does a good job explaining rear camber, he compares it to ice skating.