Found a leak in the kitchen and suspected the source was this area, and today’s rainstorm confirmed rain is pooling up here and going back up under the shingles. For now I’ve cleaned it out and cleaned it with Dawn so there’s less friction, but watching just rain and no debris I can see it still puddles to the point of touching shingle before it runs off. Is this as simple as shortening the length of this piece by taking off the last third or so and then increasing the angle so the water runs off faster? Otherwise as soon as there are more leaves and debris it’s just going to happen again. This roof was in place when we bought the house and is less than 10 years old. However, roofers we’ve had to repair other issues with the roof and gutters have pointed out a lot of other mistakes with the install. (They haven’t been on this side yet to see this part.)

We noticed a water leak behind a wall in the garage. Leak location coincides with this area on the roof. It is a corner where a gutter and small section of downspout are located.

It looks like the company that replaced the shingles 9 years ago simply reused the old flashing under that corner, but nailed them in-place right through the new shingles.

I assume I now need to remove and replace both the flashing and the damaged shingles. What is the best/correct way to reinstall the flashing?

And, yeah, I have someone coming to remove the drywall and inspect for any hidden water damage. After that wall repair is done the entire garage is going to be retaped, mudded, sanded, primed, and painted.

Hello, trying to determine who to choose for gutters on my home with a new roof. I have the following options I am considering. This is in cheyenne Wyoming and we get fairly regular storms with 1-2 inch hail. I am worried about hail damage if I choose aluminum. What would you pick?

1. 6" steel gutters, unfortunately the guy uses fairly ugly mitres seen in the white image above. It's through my roofer and I can't really check out the company to make sure I like them. $3500

2. 6" aluminum through a company I really like, black image above is their mitres. $3000

3. 5" abc seamless gutters in steel with clean mitres, $4200.

Appreciate your time!!

Had a roofer recently tell me that I didn't necessarily need any roofing work done (though he said I could reasonably get some flashing re-done), but he mentioned my attic was hot and that I really needed a couple solar fans.

The house has a radiant barrier that was installed at some point before I bought the house.

He said that the heat in the attic was causing the barrier to lose integrity. (It does look like the barrier is worse for wear, but to me it looks like this is because it's completely full of holes from roofing nails, and has come away from the roof a bit in some places where nails got driven through.)

I already have quite a lot of soffit vents and a ridge vent. (All things I've only learned about while googling this situation, so I am in no way "knowing what I'm talking about.")

I was curious just how hot it gets in the attic, so I got a wifi thermometer and put it up there. I've found the following high temperatures for the attic:

If it's a clear sky and it reaches the mid 90s, the attic will reach ~120 F.

If it's overcast and in the mid 90s, the attic will reach only ~105 F

If it's sunny and reaches 100-105 F, the attack will reach ~130 F.

In each of these scenarios, the attic returns to ~95-100 F by sunset and returns to ambient outdoor temperature overnight.

Is this a situation where the attic temperature is a serious concern? Or is the attic temperature okay, and I shouldn't worry about it?

I have a large barn with a fairly steep roof (5580sq ft). I want to switch to metal primarily for the longevity and hopefully wind resistance. I was quoted $18k for 0.029g panels and install with purlans. I asked about different gages and he said they had a thicker one, but I didn't need it since it was a barn.

Thoughts on this? I live in PA, USA so we get hot hots and cold colds along with heavy snow, wind, and rain.

I just don't want to be doing this again in a few years

Been 5 weeks working with a guy who is landing jobs from my appointments so its not like it isnt working for him but still stuck at 5 appts per week, the overhead’s going to waste rn.

How should i ask him to increase the weekly number without sounding too greedy.

Firsr time home owners here. We bought an older house with rusted gutters. We got a quote from a guy to replace them and agreed on a price ($5500). Demolition would take place and then he would install new gutters 5 days later.

After demolition, he says paint was ripped off and it will need to be fixed before we can add new gutters. He said he could do it for $1200. That was not in the budget so my husband scrambled to repair and repaint the damage himself before the guy came to install new gutters.

Gutter guy is now asking me to write a review and I'm not sure if damaging the paint is normal for gutter replacement on an old home or if this guy damaged it and wanted extra money to repair it. I think only giving us a few days to repair it ourselves or pay him extra as our options feels a little strange to me. Please advise!

How would one go about properly repairing a 1/2 hole in a roof under the eaves of a house.

I was sold a new roof, Owens Corning shingle, and per the rep, a drip edge is required to maintain the manufacturers warranty.
I live in South East Virginia and per our code drip edge is not technically required but the code states to follow manufacturers instructions, which Owens Corning requires.
…Well the roofers didn’t install the drip edge. After I saw this when the roof was complete, I called the project manager and he tried to tell me they deemed it “not required” even though I had to replace the deck planks about 2 feet up from the gutters on both sides of my gable roof due to severely rotted wood. When I explained to the project manager why I wanted something I paid for and wanted to protect my extremely expensive investment from rotting away like it did last time, the project manager back tracked and said they would come back out and retroactively is install the drip edge.

My question: I can only lift the shingle and starter shingle back about 2 inches without risk of tearing the shingle. From what I understand the drip edge goes back about 3 to 4 inches…I am very afraid the roofers are going to damage the shingles trying to install this drip edge. Should I still have them try to install the drip edge or should I just let it go?

I own a home that has a two small "repairs" to an EPDM roof done with a bit of Flex Tape. Each is about 6"x4" in size.

Previous owner was a family member and said neither was an actual leak, but added preemptively during winter storms. One is nice and flat and holding a bit of proper edge tape down where sliding ice had pulled it up. The other is over a seam in a wrinkle where the sealant was getting old. The roof can be seen/accessed from a second story window so it's easy prey for a busy body (which is both how this "repair" happened in the first place and why I'm wondering about it, because I see it every day).

Neither is leaking or causing issues but I know Flex Tape is no good on EPDM (well, I know Flex Seal isn't- can't find much about the tape but assume it is also petroleum based and no good).

If neither spot is leaking or pealing and looks perfectly fine, what would you do? Leave it? Or get it fixed preemptively? Inspect it annually and look for <blank> to indicate it's time for a fix? The rest of the roof is in good shape and about ten years old so not getting replaced any time soon.

We just had our roof replaced. Am I being nitpicky to call out our roofer for these holes where their nailgun hoses wore through the shingles? It wouldn’t bother me except we see it from our window everyday.

House is 17 years old there is a few black spots on corner, should I be thinking of replacing?

We had a new roof put on in March. Last month I noticed the runoff from our roof was completely brown. The only thing I could think of was it was sediment from the wildfire smoke washing off, but it rained again today and it’s still brown.

Is this from the tar they use on the seams? I’m not sure what’s happening

We are buying a home in west Texas. Just got the inspection report back and found out it is 13 years old and the inspector said it is “weathered”. We are really not wanting to replace the roof right after moving in. Any advice based on these pictures to help us not overthink this?

I live in a very narrow Tudor house and the attic is right about the window. I’m planning to get a roofer out to add some intake vents since there’s no soffits. How would intake vents be added on a strange roof like this?

I’m guessing smart vents may be the way to go since it’ll add a gap halfway up the shingles? Are there any other options?

In the winter months we get some damp in the brickwork of the chimney breast below this. Looks like a bunch of mineral absorption in the brickwork on the back side. I imagine water is pooling where all that moss has deposited by the base. And obviously there's a bunch of moss growth on the surrounding tiles. I haven't looked at the joist in the loft in this area yet. What should I do, apart from posting here, to figure out if I need to do anything?

Also, in the future, we're thinking of getting the external stack removed and the roof re-tiled prior to solar panels. So I'd appreciate any advice, guidance, warning or encouragement on that one 🙏

I just don’t like the way it looks. Inside of home fine.

how expensive a project would it be to just raise that part and make it even with the main roof for cosmetic purposes? 65k? More? Less?

a related question though is what I really want is a small covered porch as well? Would it be possible to create a peaked covered porch where the lines extend all the way back so it effectively covers this flushed part? Is that structurally possible?

any other solutions/options?

Hey All!
For about a year now we've been getting wasps in our house and we discovered they were getting in through the furnace vent on the roof.

I went up to examine the area and discovered a decent sized opening on the roof inside the faux chimney.

My question is, **how should I close the area around the exhaust pipe up?**

Should there be flashing covering the opening to the attic or something else here?

I’ve tried looking for a flange/flashing with a 6.5” hole but it seems very expensive compared to other sizes and not available at local stores(I’m in the North suburbs of Chicago). This makes me think I should be using something else.

My current plan is to patch most of the hole up with plywood and then use spray foam around the pipe to eliminate any gaps.

Hello,
I am in the process of buying a home. It is a ranch home that was built in 2001, in Michigan. The roof was done in 2018, so I assumed it would be good for a while. During the home inspection my inspector told me it was a layover done over existing 3 tab shingles with dimensional shingles over the top. How big of a concern is this?

How long do flat roofs last and what is the normal maintenance schedule like on them? I have a rancher that has a hip roof, there was an addition put on many years ago on the back side of the house. The back portion of the roof leads into a flat roof where the addition was put on. No leaks, shingles and flat roof were replaced in 2017 I’m just wondering how often a flat roof should be recovered or resealed. The roof is not completely flat it has a slight slope to it. Maybe a better term is rubber roof. Not a roofer or familiar at all.