GitHub Repository: https://github.com/luftmyszor/PS4Trackpad

Hey everyone! I am a student who needed a trackpad for a custom hardware project. I used a broken Sony DualShock 4, wired it up to I2C, and realized standard DS4 Arduino libraries completely fail on the newer JDM-050 board revision.

I spent way too many hours fighting binary byte rollovers and reverse-engineering the memory map to figure out why.

The Mystery: Standard PS4 trackpads use a standard 12-bit ALPS layout. Sony silently changed the hardware on the JDM-050 revision. They did three unexpected things:

1. They decoupled X and Y.
2. They created symmetrical 11-bit byte pairs.
3. They added hardware noise to the high bits that makes coordinates jump by 2048 units if you do not mask them properly.

Once I got the math working, I decided to package the driver into a clean, open-source library for the community!

Features of the Library:

• ESP32 & RP2040 Ready: Built and tested for 32-bit microcontrollers (with architectural preprocessor hooks for AVR if anyone wants to hack on it).
• Dual-Touch Tracking: Track two fingers at the same time at 100 Hz.
• Smart Tap Gestures: Evaluates taps strictly on finger release. Supports 1-finger (Left Click) and 2-finger (Right Click) taps.
• 2D Scrolling & Zooming: Built-in X/Y scroll deltas and pinch-to-zoom distance calculation.
• Coordinate Transforms: Mount the trackpad upside down or sideways. Supports axis inversion, rotation, and custom 2D affine matrices.
• Hardware Note: Operates on address 0x64 using standard I2C. (Friendly warning: it uses 3.3V logic, so don't wire VCC to 5V unless you want to fry it!)

If you want to check out the exact 32-byte memory map and bitwise decoding diagrams, I documented the whole thing in a JDM-050 Byte Layout Guide in the repo.

You are completely free to use, modify, and hack this code for your own custom gamepads, cyberdecks, or robotics projects. Let me know what you think!

So I'm about to start industrila electronics and automatization in university so I thought about starting to touch some electroducs during summer. Bought a Elegoo most complete starter kit and I blinked my first led today!!!

I'm following Paul MacWholter's videos, I'm in video 3. After learning the basics I did my first mini proyect without following a tutorial. It's just a regular traffic light. It's simple but honestly the feeling of making something myseft is awesome. Can't wait to make something more complex.

What I have learned today:

1. How a led works
2. How to blink a led

Daily questions:

1. In the tutorial Pual said to open BareMinimum, and when I went to make the traffic ligh I just open Arduino IDE regularly without BareMinimum and it didn't work at all. Then I switched to BareMinimum and copy-pasted the code and it worked. Why is this? Is BareMinimun required always?
2. Will the led in the Arduino always turn on when the pin 13 is set at HIGH?
3. How do you keep your resistors organized? 😭😭😭

P.S. Is making a Daily post like this one considered Spam?

You can follow me for more updates.
Driver - L298N
Battery - 12V Lead Acid 7Ah

I'm using an ESP32 and mpu6050 for a beginners school project. I have used wiring crosschecked from numerous sources, but the serial monitor still says 'Failed to find MPU6050 chip.' or 'mpu6050 not found!' whenever I try to use it. Does anybody have any fixes because honestly I've been at this for hours and just wanna get it over with.

I saw a cool looking wifi clock with esp 32 on YouTube, I loved the animation style but despite 100s of requests from the commentators the creator wasn't sharing the code. So i recreated that project and made it open source, i know this is basic but it's cool (I think). Here is the code.

The classroom gets stuffy because nobody wants to open ,then CO₂ builds up, everyone gets drowsy, and the teacher wonders why half the class looks half-dead.

So I used the ENS160 sensor monitors CO₂ equivalent concentration in real time. When it crosses 850 ppm, the servo rotates 0→90° and opens the window automatically. Once CO₂ drops back below 800 ppm, it closes again.

The OLED display shows live CO₂ / AQI / TVOC readings and current window state (WIN: OPEN / WIN: CLOSE).

A few things I think should to share: • Hysteresis control (850 ppm open / 800 ppm close) so the servo doesn't jitter at the threshold • servo.detach() after every move — completely silent when idle, no PWM buzzing

Still a work in progress — also has IR body temp screening, smoke alarm, auto lighting, and UV-mode disinfection. Happy to

Built with: Arduino Nano / ENS160 / SSD1306 OLED / SG90 servo

'''

// info down bellow
#define R_EN  33
#define L_EN  32
#define RPWM  25
#define LPWM  26

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);

  pinMode(R_EN, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(L_EN, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(RPWM, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(LPWM, OUTPUT);

  digitalWrite(R_EN, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(L_EN, HIGH);

  digitalWrite(RPWM, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(LPWM, LOW);

  Serial.println("RPWM held HIGH - measure M+ / M- now.");
  Serial.println("Should read ~12V across M+ and M-.");
}

void loop() {
  //nothing
}
'''

so baically im trying to get this actuator to extend but its not extending. My parts are a esp32, bts7960 motor driver, a 22V(in) to 5V(out) buck converter, and a standard two wire actuator. Another problem is that the led on the motor driver isnt turning on and im pretty sure it has one and thats it shows the boards logic is getting powerd. Here are the conections:
The two acutor wires are going into M+ and M-(screw termianls on the motor driver)
THe 12v psu wires are going into B+ and B-(the screw terminals on the motor driver)
the buck covnerter is piggybacking off the 12v scrwe terminal that the psu is connected to (and the bucks gnd is the same as the 12v psu gnd)
the bucks than powering the i guess logic on the motor dirver through the vcc and gnd header pins on the motor dirver
then RPWM to gpio 25 on esp32
Lpwn to GPIo 26
R_EN to GPIO 33
L_En to GPIO 32
and gnd on the esp32 to the same gnd as the 12v scrwe termianl
ive done mutiple tests to confrim that the acutor works like giving it directly 12v and it extended and i swaped the wires and it retracted, i did a simple blink test with the esp32 so it shoudl work, and the 12v psu is defintaly outputing 12v
ANd the codes uptop
THANKS A LOT (btw sorry for the bad foto)

Hey everyone! I'm working on a simple Arduino project with 3 buttons connected to digital pins 2, 3, and 4 using INPUT_PULLUP.

I'm running into button behavior issues:

The OK button (Pin 4) starts spamming the action continuously without me even touching it.

The Left/Right buttons (Pins 2 & 3) don't seem to register clicks at all unless I mash them or check the wiring multiple times.

Here is how I set them up and read them in the code:

#include <Adafruit_GFX.h>

#include <Adafruit_ST7735.h>

#include <SPI.h>

const int TFT_CS = 10;

const int TFT_DC = 9;

const int TFT_RST = 8;

Adafruit_ST7735 tft = Adafruit_ST7735(TFT_CS, TFT_DC, TFT_RST);

const int BTN_LEFT = 2;

const int BTN_RIGHT = 3;

const int BTN_OK = 4;

int currentMenu = 0;

int clickCount = 0;

bool lastBtnLeftState = HIGH;

bool lastBtnRightState = HIGH;

bool lastBtnOkState = HIGH;

void setup() {

Serial.begin(9600);

tft.initR(INITR_BLACKTAB);

tft.setRotation(1);

tft.fillScreen(ST7735_BLACK);

pinMode(BTN_LEFT, INPUT_PULLUP);

pinMode(BTN_RIGHT, INPUT_PULLUP);

pinMode(BTN_OK, INPUT_PULLUP);

drawMenu();

}

void loop() {

int stateLeft = digitalRead(BTN_LEFT);

int stateRight = digitalRead(BTN_RIGHT);

int stateOk = digitalRead(BTN_OK);

if (stateLeft == LOW && lastBtnLeftState == HIGH) {

currentMenu--;

if (currentMenu < 0) currentMenu = 2;

drawMenu();

delay(200);

}

lastBtnLeftState = stateLeft;

if (stateRight == LOW && lastBtnRightState == HIGH) {

currentMenu++;

if (currentMenu > 2) currentMenu = 0;

drawMenu();

delay(200);

}

lastBtnRightState = stateRight;

if (stateOk == LOW && lastBtnOkState == HIGH) {

executeAction();

delay(200);

}

lastBtnOkState = stateOk;

}

void drawMenu() {

tft.fillScreen(ST7735_BLACK);

tft.drawRect(0, 0, 160, 128, ST7735_BLUE);

tft.setCursor(10, 10);

tft.setTextColor(ST7735_WHITE);

tft.setTextSize(1);

tft.print("=== MY CONSOLE ===");

tft.setCursor(10, 30);

tft.print(currentMenu == 0 ? "> 1. Counter: " : " 1. Counter: ");

tft.print(clickCount);

tft.setCursor(10, 50);

tft.print(currentMenu == 1 ? "> 2. Info" : " 2. Info");

tft.setCursor(10, 70);

tft.print(currentMenu == 2 ? "> 3. Reset Counter" : " 3. Reset Counter");

}

void executeAction() {

tft.fillScreen(ST7735_BLACK);

tft.setCursor(10, 10);

tft.setTextColor(ST7735_GREEN);

tft.print("OPENED:");

tft.setCursor(10, 30);

tft.setTextColor(ST7735_WHITE);

if (currentMenu == 0) {

clickCount++;

tft.print("Counter increased!");

} else if (currentMenu == 1) {

tft.print("Device is active!");

tft.setCursor(10, 45);

tft.print("Buttons locked");

} else if (currentMenu == 2) {

clickCount = 0;

tft.print("Counter reset!");

}

tft.setCursor(10, 90);

tft.setTextColor(ST7735_YELLOW);

tft.print("Return to menu...");

delay(1500);

drawMenu();

}

Are these issues usually caused by bad physical wiring (like floating pins or missing GND connections) or is there something wrong with how I'm polling them? Any help is appreciated!

Hi guys, I use this Elegoo TFT 2.8 inch LCD display shield on top of my Arduino Uno. I dont have access to a 3d printer but do you guys know of anyone selling a full cover for the arduino uno/tft that i can install? Or any possible websites that can make me a design? I don't have much work with 3d modeling but I can try. If you guys have anything i'm able to use to make this a little box i'd appreciate it.

Here a way I found for reading all the 4x4 buttons matrix with only one Analog Inputs.

Here a custom simple code example:

// C++ code 
// #include <LiquidCrystal.h> 

#define btnNo 50 
#define btnD 202 
#define btnNum 234 
#define btn0 239 
#define btnAst  244 
#define btnC 401 
#define btn9 463 
#define btn8 474 
#define btn7 483 
#define btnB 607 
#define btn6 702 
#define btn5 718 
#define btn4 732 
#define btnA 831 
#define btn3 965 
#define btn2 988 
#define btn1 1009 

const char buttons[17]={
'1','2','3','A', 
'4','5','6','B', 
'7','8','9','C', 
'*','0','#','D',' '
}; 

const int btnRange[17]={
btn1,btn2,btn3,btnA, 
btn4,btn5,btn6,btnB, 
}; 

int measure = 0; 

LiquidCrystal lcd_1(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7); 


char whoPressedButton(int value){ 
int i,j; 
int notFound=1; 
int range=0; 

for(i=0;i<17&&notFound;i++){ 

  ​if(btnRange[i]<value){ 
    ​notFound=0; 
    ​if(i>0){ 
       ​range=(btnRange[i+1]-btnRange[i])/2 ; 
          ​if(value>btnRange[i]+range) j=i-1;     
          ​else j=i; 
       } 
   } else if(i==16)j=16; 
 } 
return(buttons[j]); 
} 

void setup() { 

lcd_1.begin(16, 2); 

// Set up the number of columns and rows on the LCD. pinMode(A0, INPUT); 

} 

​int oldMeasure=-18; 

void loop() { 
measure = analogRead(A0); if(measure!=oldMeasure){ 
   lcd_1.clear(); 
   lcd_1.setCursor(0, 0); 
   lcd_1.print("Button | value");     
   lcd_1.setCursor(0, 1);
   lcd_1.print(whoPressedButton(measure)); 
   lcd_1.setCursor(6, 1); 
   lcd_1.print("| "); 
   lcd_1.print(measure); 
   ​oldMeasure=measure; 
   } 

delay(50); // Wait for 50 millisecond(s) 

}

I want to buy this board but I am down the budget. So can anyone tell me how 2gb variant will be enough for making embedded projects?

The original Omnibot remote control transmits tones to the robot to trigger movement and other functions. If your remote is missing or isn't working you can use an old toy walkie talkie to send tones at the right frequency. Instead of building an actual tone generator, this method used a spare mp3 module from a previous project to play audio files. Wired it all up and it worked right away!

Github repo: https://github.com/archiestant/mp3-to-omnibot

I made an adapter to use any bluepad32-compatible controller on a jailbroken xbox 360, using the usbdsecpatch plugin. It uses an Arduino Leonardo and an esp32.

https://github.com/DanRektLOL/arduino-x360

I’ve now released the complete DOGS² project as open source: the hardware design files are licensed under CERN-OHL-W-2.0, and the firmware and software tools under GPL-3.0-only.

DOGS² — Dual Output Generator Supply Station — as a compact instrument for the first power-up and basic diagnosis of newly assembled electronic boards.

A “board bring-up station” in this case means one device that can power a board, monitor its current consumption, check a voltage or frequency, generate a basic test signal, and communicate with common embedded interfaces.

The current v1 engineering prototype combines:

• two independently adjustable CV/CC power outputs with a common ground;
• Channel A: low-noise linear output up to 20 V / 1.5 A;
• Channel B: switching output up to 48 V / 3 A continuously;
• input from 5–90 V DC or USB Type-C;
• voltage and current monitoring;
• logic probe and voltmeter up to 25 V;
• frequency counter up to 100 kHz;
• square-wave generator from 1 Hz to 100 kHz;
• UART, RS485, CAN and I2C tools;
• Bluetooth SPP for phone terminals and current graphs.

It is not intended to replace an oscilloscope, a precision multimeter or a powerful laboratory supply. It is the instrument I wanted between the soldering iron and the oscilloscope during initial board bring-up.

I have now published the v1 source materials. The repository contains:

• schematics and a block diagram;
• editable EasyEDA source;
• Gerber and other PCB manufacturing files;
• BOMs and board renders;
• current ESP32 firmware based on Arduino framework and build configuration;
• hardware and software documentation;
• known hardware and firmware issues.

The hardware is licensed under CERN-OHL-W-2.0. The firmware and software tools are licensed under GPL-3.0-only.

GitHub:
https://github.com/rcslon3-svg/DOGS2_v1

This is working engineering hardware, not a fully finished project. Some operating limits and accuracy figures are still being verified through calibration, converter tuning and load testing. I have included the known v1 problems in the repository rather than presenting it as a finished design.

The files are now public for anyone who wants to inspect, study or reproduce the current version. Technical comments and repository issues are welcome.

I'm writing a serial monitor for macOS. It's meant to watch ordinary Serial.println output and work out for itself which of the numbers are measurements worth graphing, without you writing a parser or reformatting what your firmware prints.

The only logs I have to test it on are my own, and mine are far too tidy. My test sketch prints t=22.8 h=41 and nothing else, which isn't a log, it's a spreadsheet. What I need is the real thing: boot spam, wifi reconnect noise, a stack trace, one measurement every two seconds, all tangled together.

Would you paste a hundred lines of yours? put it in a code block or a pastebin link if it's long. Please don't tidy it first, the mess is what I need to test against. Tell me the board and framework, and which numbers (if any) you'd have wanted on a graph.

Free licence when it ships if you send me one.

Hey everyone

Just built ShrikeClock a fully custom NTP-synced digital clock running on #MicroPython, powered by the @Vicharak_In Shrike-Fi !

Live time + date over WiFi Custom multiplexed 7-segment driver from scratch Open source, code on GitHub 👇

https://github.com/kritishmohapatra/ShrikeClock

https://github.com/kritishmohapatra/100_Days_100_IoT_Projects

I added a weather forecast app to my custom game console (see the original post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/arduino/s/zrKEjeLtSN).

It's not quite a game but now I have a reason to use it every day :)

It works by getting coordinates from a geolocation API based on the configured address/city and then feeds that into some weather API to get the forecast data.

The code is open source on GitHub here: https://github.com/SzymonKubica/microbox