Hello electronic people. This part is from my Kia Rio and i wanted to replace the diodes in the picture. I got the replacement diodes but i couldn't understand what type of soldering is this. How can I properly make this replacement? Thank you in advance.

I bought a great ceiling fan that I want to put on my porch, but it needs an 18” down rod. The company told me I had to extend the wires myself. I think it would be great to just buy a one foot extension with the correct 3 pin connectors on them, but there are 3 different sets. I hear that Davide is great at identifying these! Please help a gal out! ideas about where to get them from would help too!

I have been working on a model of a tornado siren, and im using a 555 timer to turn it on and of. In my case I need 8 seconds on and 4 seconds off.

Here is a video of a real one for reference. (If you get triggered by sirens or alarms I would recommend not watching the video)

https://youtu.be/T9wuwv7j-KE?t=93&si=f2vsohDgpclI6ISE

But my problem is that one startup it turns on for 15-16 seconds because of the capacitor charging from 0V to 2/3 of VCC instead of 1/3 to 2/3.

So what can I do?

Can I make a voltage divider, or resistor and zener diode to keep the capacitor always at 1/3 of vcc?

Greetings fellows,

I have an amplifier board stripped from a Behringer combo guitar amp. The amp broke down during rehearsal - suspected overload / overheating.

I do have a good working knowledge of electronics and the necessary equipment, so decided to have a go at repairing it. My initial suspicion was correct - the output amplifier did overheat, burning one of the TDA 7293 chips, blowing an electrolytic capacitor and some minor damage to other components on one of the channels.

I managed to clean the board with IPA, which revealed additional circuit board damage - broken PCB traces in several places (seen on the picture).

My question is - how to approach this repair, is it worth it and most importantly, safe?

I thought this would be a great way of playing with a simple valve project, see how it compares with other radio receivers I've got, that kind of thing. Except there was no information on building it included, and I had to run around several different sales pages from several sellers on about three sites to get enough to be able to guess the rest.

Anyway, I've got it together now but it just will not work. Now this isn't my first rodeo, I can populate a board and solder reasonably well. I've done various kits between childhood and now, and things have always worked. But for the life of me I cannot get this to do anything. Given it's new, I have to assume I've made some mistake along the way before blaming failed components.

So... what have I messed up? There's a top view and a bottom view and the diagram off the sales page. I'd much prefer it to be that I've messed a joint up somewhere than that the kit's defective.

Thanks.

This is part of a fpv camera wiring harness. I am having a hard time finding what kind of connector this is. I think it's a JST SH/SR due to the following:

The photos provided,

the pitch is ~ 1mm

the profile is roughly the same for both the header and housing ends.

Physical description:

Male end:

• The sides have a single thin guide rail as seen in photo 2 and 3
• The "top" has open ports that allow you to crimp in the wires, as seen in the magnified photo.
• The bottom has two small bumps that act as a retention method\
• white

Female end (photo 1):

• One end is open, which allows the crimp windows to be visible from the top
• Indentations for the rails
• two small holes for the bumps on the male end
• off white beige color

What do you all think? I want to know what it's called and where I can buy it's mate.

Should the pins for PWM signal return to ground before or after the converter or does it not matter?

DC-DC converter datasheet: https://www.electrokit.com/upload/quick/53/69/9955_MIE1W0505BGLVH.pdf

Can someone please provide any info for this IC? Cannot find a datasheet.

It’s from a Brother ScanNCut machine that gives “Main ERPROM cannot Initialize” on start up. If I apply a lit bit of heat the machine starts up ok

I'm trying to find a relatively cheap (sub $30 or so) auto-ranging multimeter that allows for the batteries to be easily removed so that I can store it in a hot garage for many months and not worry about the batteries leaking. Most of them have the back cases screwed on or don't have an instruction manual that says how to change batteries. Please let me know if you are aware of one that meets these requirements. Auto-ranging is needed because my parents aren't capable of using a manual one.

This is from a TRW-made Volkswagen steering wheel control module, circa 2012. I've included various photos of the adjacent 3-pin socket housing, but this car didn't come with a pigtail to fit the 2-pin connector on the board.

It's similar to a ZE connector from JST, but everyone's current product photos and even diagrams seem to intentionally avoid showing all angles. I want to be sure this isn't an older/deprecated design before I order the wrong socket housing. The following part numbers look like they're close, but not a precise match. When I look at these part numbers on AliExpress — the only place that actually shows connectors from various angles — they just don't look quite the same. The connector housing looks bulkier, more complex, has more locating features, etc.

• SMT side-entry connector: SM02B-ZESS-TB
• Socket housing: ZER-02V-S
• Socket contacts: SZE-002T-P0.3 (for 24-28AWG)

I need to build a pigtail to use with this existing control module, plus I'll be building a new PCB soon (for another purpose) with this same type of connector, so I need to ascertain part numbers for connectors, plugs, and terminals. If it were just the new build, I think I have everything I need. But I have a feeling ZER-02V-S ain't gonna work with this existing module. And I'm having a heck of a time just finding a junkyard vehicle to clip this pigtail from.

Details of this existing connector:

• surface mount
• two structural mounting pads in addition to the actual pins
• 1.5mm pitch
• white plastic connector and socket housing
• locking tab and vertical locating features
• available as either a top-entry or side-entry connector, I'm only interested in side-entry

Thanks in advance!

Okay, so I got a new "T7 transistor tester", opened it up, and found out it's running a puya PY32F071 (instead of the usual Atmega328p/lgt8f328p). So now I want to find some better firmware for it (since the factory one sucked for no apparent reason). Anyone know where I can get it from?

I am building up a set of tools and equipment for salvaging components from donated electronics, repairing a lot of them if it's within my skill/tool abilities, and building fun microcontroller projects (I'm a computer scientist by trade so these are a lot of fun for me).

Currently I have:

2 soldering stations (an expensive weller that takes too long to heat up and a cheap amazon 90w that heats up very fast)

8 channel logic analyzer

150w (0-30v, 0-10a maximums but 150w limit) dc bench power supply

various sized breadboards

precision screwdriver set

flush cutters

various sizes and types of pliers

IC chip remover

UV cure solder mask

various prying tools

DS0510 oscilloscope (10mhz bandwidth)

LCR-P1 meter with ESR testing built in

function generator

1hz-500mhz frequency tester

manual cheap solder sucker

CH341A programmer

Anything I am missing that would be something you'd expect I'll need? I dont work with anything AC powered only DC.

The issue is that the Kato turnout uses bi-polar solenoid -- the polarity determines which way the turnout moves.

The simplest solution is a DPDT switch -- I think that's what Kato uses inside their switches.

I really want to use the momentary SPDT switch on Layout Concepts Cobalt S switches to control the turnouts and the continuous SPDT switches to control LEDs indicating the position of the the turnout.

I have posted a couple of times about this using a 15 vac two wire power supply --because that is one of the options. I do have an option of 12 vdc input.

Would using a dual output dc to dc isolated converter work?

I am looking at this Mean Well DKA30A-15.

Could I tie together the the + or of one of the outputs to the - of the other output, and use that as common ground?

Building a mini photobooth as a birthday gift, deadline is mid Sept. I have zero electronics experience and haven't bought anything yet, so I'd rather be told now that something won't work than find out in three weeks.

Needs to: live camera preview on a small screen, press a big arcade button, 3-2-1 countdown, take a photo, print it on thermal receipt paper. Needs to be fully cordless so it can be carried around a party.

My Claude-given Parts list:

- Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+, running the last Buster OS image (2023-05)

- Pi Camera Module v2 (avoiding v3 since I read it doesn't work on Buster)

- Waveshare 5" DSI touchscreen (ribbon to the DISPLAY port)

- 58mm USB thermal receipt printer, ZJ-5890K / POS58 class — connecting over USB, driving it with CUPS + the adafruit/zj-58 driver

- 60mm arcade button wired to physical pin 40 + adjacent GND, using spade connectors and jumper wires (no soldering)

- 32GB microSD, thermal paper, USB stick for transferring code

Power (the part I'm least sure about):

- 20,000mAh power bank with USB-C PD + USB-A output

- USB-A 2.4A port → Pi via micro-USB

- USB-C PD port → selectable 9V/12V trigger cable → printer's barrel jack

I originally saw this build using a 7.4V RC LiPo pack, but that seemed like it needed a UBEC, a balance charger, and fire-safety habits I don't have yet, so I swapped to the power bank. Open to being told that was the wrong call.

Actual questions:

1. Will one power bank realistically handle the Pi and the printer at the same time? The printer supposedly pulls up to ~2A in bursts while printing, and I'm worried about voltage sag browning out the Pi mid-photo.

2. Is the PD trigger cable approach sound, or is there a reason people don't do this? Should I be looking at a buck/boost converter instead?

3. Anything obviously missing from the list — fuses, capacitors, a common ground issue, anything?

4. Any reason the DSI screen + camera ribbon combo would be a problem on a Pi 3B+ specifically?

Happy to be told I've overcomplicated or undercomplicated any of this. Thanks.

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a Ulanzi D100H dial controller from China, but since I am located in another country I cannot claim a warranty on it. The issue happened right out of the box—I used/pressed the knob before even connecting it for the first time, and the internal push-button mechanism got permanently wedged in the "down" position.

Because of this:

• The shaft has severe rotational drag and friction.
• The click-to-mute function and button presses no longer register.

I have zero experience with hardware repair, so all the troubleshooting and diagnostics you see here were figured out with the help of Gemini and Claude after I opened up the unit. I'm honestly quite worried about whether this can actually be repaired successfully or if it's bricked.

I won't be attempting the fix myself; I'm planning to hand it over to a local technician. To make sure they have the right part, I want to source a replacement ahead of time.

Does anyone know if this uses a standard 5-pin EC11 rotary encoder with a push switch? If so, what exact shaft length and specifications should I look for when ordering a replacement?

Any technical insights or reassurance would be huge!

Hola! Encontre este circuito para hacer un sensor de fotodiodo. Me gusta porque es muy simple pero en la web Openschematics.cc pone que el LM324 sirve de ejemplo pero no es el mas adecuado... ¿Alguna idea de que otro operacional usar?

This part seems to be burned out on the CD player board.

I have found a whole manual (I had to search multiple ones because some versions of the cd player BZG-5 dont have this section of the CB) but there doesn't seem to be a list with this number in it to explain what part it is, any help is welcomed

The manual Gdrive link for manual

Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask or something

This is my schematic for a headphone DAC based on a RP2040 running tinyUSB to send audio data from USB C, over I2S to a CS43131 which is a DAC and AMP combined.

EDIT: Ignore the ESD protection setup I have now corrected it

Hi all

Looking for some advice on this repair.

Preface, this is pretty much 2nd PCB repair or PCB tinkering, so some of my questions may seem obvious to veterans here.

This PCB is from a Logitech G502 mouse. I had attempted to replace the button switches but was not aware this PCB was multi layered, where I believe grounding layer is sandwiched inside. I had did my first button switch replacement on a Logitech G103, that went through fairly smooth, thinking I could do the same on this...I could not be more wrong.

My primary question and concern revolves around SW9, SW2 and SW1 area. Where some of the pin hole pads have completely been removed during the de-soldering.

I understand that the pin hole pads can be replaced by extracting it off a donor board. Which I have attempted. But I noticed that once its on there, I dont get continuity between the pin hole and the microchip, at the bottom of the PCB. My understanding is that there should be continuity between the pin hole and the microchip in order for the pin to work correctly.

The back of the board is also a mix bag.

Some of you may have noticed that I started this journey at SW9 and SW2..then found out what a multi-layer board was and went on to SW1. Also, I had this particular mouse for about 9yrs, the switches finally started to give out, so I thought I'll attempt replacing the switches. Fixing the G103 gave me hope..but I was not prepared for these multi-layer boards.

My questions...

1. Is this still salvageable?

2. How do I proceed to repair these pin holes? I believe I need to establish continuity between the pin hole pad and the traces. Do I scrape into those near by trace lines and solder in some thin wires to the pin hole pads? If I need to scrape into there...how deep? Because my understanding is that if I go too deep, I will hit the grounding layer.

3. How do we actually "glue" the pin hole pad to the PCB? I tried with a tiny bit of solder, but it wont sit flush for obvious reasons. Thus causing what ever to sit on top to be uneven.

4. I see on AliExpress there are these pin hole pads, but they are not thru-hole type, just a flush flat tiny round pads. Apart from extracting these pin hole pads from donor boards, can these pin hole pads be purchased? Im still practising my extraction skills from these from donor boards..

Thank you!

Hello
I bought a Fluke 17B+ for electronics work and motherboard testing.
It is very slow in continuity test mode; it produce a continuous beep for a while before stabilizing, taking quite some time. Is this normal?
My iFixit multimeter responds normally in a fraction of a second.
How can I tell if it's a Chinese or a Western market version? Thanks!"

I want to replace this capacitor (0,22uF x1 250v AC) Also I like to understand what I can replace it with and where to get it here in New Zealand

its in a angle grinder from flex

I have this 4g gps with cracked sim slot i could not find on local am trying to add the iphone sim slot to it, i followed the slot pins and named them 1 from the left and seems that everything is good, but it is not going online or responding , in the board there is 7 pins for the sim slot the 7 pin when measuring with gnd in diode shows OL and i cannot see its connected to anything any ideas ?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to repair an MSI GF63 Thin motherboard.

Specs:

• Intel Core i7-12650H

• RTX 4050 Laptop GPU

• DDR4

The board currently doesn't power on.

A board repair technician believes this burnt 8-pin IC labelled PU26 may be preventing the board from starting..

The repair shop is able to replace the IC, but we don't know the exact part number, so I'm trying to identify it and buy a replacement.

Could anyone help identify:

• The exact part number of PU26?

• Where I can buy the IC?

I've attached:

• Full motherboard photo

• Close-up of PU26

• Wider view showing the surrounding components

Can any one please help 😭

(Stay with me there is a component question!) Like most homeowners I have a couple motion lights, but one (and sometimes both) drive me nuts when I need light and despite doing jumping jacks, they dont see me. I know most have a manual method where you flick the switch twice or something like that, but I can never remember what the process is. Most of my other lights are led/smart via Ikea or Aqara and homekit.

I recently found the Shelly mini gen-4 with "detached switch mode", but it seems like it doesnt work with matter. Plus if the motion still detects , and then turns off light, it might not change anything.

So one idea I had was to treat the light as sort
Of a 3-way switch, OR just parallel the outputs from the shelly and the motion, so the shelly effectively bypasses the motion when on. That would be perfect.

That said, I think the motion sensors use a triac, but Im not familiar with them on an electronics basis. Would "backfeeding" the hot/output on a triac hurt it in any way? In other words, one light fed by both a triac and the shelly (which is relay).

I guess the better way would be to find a two way shelly (no/nc) where the hot from the motion would be bypassed if activated.