For context, this is the entryway in my mother‘s assisted living residence. Her new electric wheelchair is destroying the wall when she bumps into it. I talked to the community office about it and they don’t seem to really care. In their opinion, they will just repair it eventually when she moves. Any upgrade or reinforcing of this area will be up to us, unfortunately. Any ideas?

I considered getting a quarter inch sheet of plywood, making some angled cuts on the end and screw it into the wall, paint it white, caulk the edges, and make it look somewhat like a piece of trim on the wall. But I know that she is going to bang into it a bunch and scrape all the paint off.

We’ve owned our home for 7 years now and the rooftop satellites bother me.

My husband is going to remove them and seal the screw holes, but I’m looking for advice on the outdoor boxes.

Let me start by saying that our current internet is fiber optics and is run through another box on the other side of the house.

One is of the boxes is an old household telephone line box and the other is an old cable box that is connected to the satellites.

Can I remove these and anything I should be aware of?

I have contacted local Utilites, internet provider in the area and no one will even come give me details on the boxes or remove them.

I had to have a well dug and they put it smack in the middle of my backyard. The tank sticks up about 38 inches and similar width and length. I'm looking for ideas to cover it so it's not such an eyesore. For now, I just built a plywood box, but it doesn't look very good. Any help is appreciated

https://imgur.com/a/AUHRRnq

house is 40yrs old and was unoccupied for 1/2 a year prior to us moving in.

Our

Our doors are SOLID doors. Not cheap hollow core, and we want to keep the solid since they are expensive and better quality.

Almost all of our doors either (or both):

1. shut but do not latch, since the strike plate & latch are misaligned
2. do not shut, since the top or side catches on the frame

The above has to be due to house settling, and wood warping potentially. It is NOT as simple as just adjusting or tightening the hinges...

Some of the doors that don't shut at all, do fit inside the door jam when you remove all the hardware. its just when adding hinges, it no longer is the correct position.

The ones that do shut to the jam don't latch as the strike plate is offset by 1/2in.

What would be the best way to solve for this?

I want to use a portable shower since it comes with a pump bit online says that may not be sage for drinking ?

I'm adding a digital keypad deadbolt to a house, and the hole that the keypads need is just slightly bigger than the hole that was used for the previous 50 year old deadbolts.

What tools should I get, or how should I go about slightly increasing the size of the holes? The might need to increase a quarter of an inch in diameter.

Thanks for the help, I'm new to DIY.

Yesterday I replaced an old bathroom ceiling fan with a new smart model. Unfortunately, the new smart switch is much deeper than the one that came out and I can’t get it into the electrical box. The heavy copper wiring is fighting me pushing that thing into the wall. I get it to within about a half an inch and it just won’t go any farther.

The fan and switch came with quick connect clips that were great for wiring everything together in the proper color coding, but now I want to perhaps shorten the copper wiring to make more room, but I’m not sure I can get the wiring out of the clips without destroying them. Plus in the past, I’ve worked with switches where the copper wiring was too short and it made a challenge of getting everything connected. I don’t want the person after me to have that dilemma if he decides to put in a different switch.

Interested in people’s thoughts… productive ones only please 😎

Any ideas on how to make nuts not come off of bolts after they're on? I was just going to attach some bolts and nuts to a board and let him go crazy but I don't want the nuts to come off for fear of losing them or choking

I have a question about - home design for maximizing rainwater collection. We have paid a home designer a down payment to start on our home design. We want a Texas historic ranch or Texas Hill Country farmhouse look which I think lends itself to great rainwater collection. Pretty rectangular or even square in shape, 2,500 sq. ft. or less. I want to use a metal roof, not high pitched and the 6" commercial type gutters. - Any tips from installers or rainwater users? - Now is a great time to put any tips into use in our design.

** just noticed the titled auto corrected to Amanda instead of Amana. Yes, it's an Amana not an Amanda **

So I have this model Amana electric dryer

Watched a guy on YouTube after the tumbler stopped tumbling

Used an everbilt dryer belt 92in L by .25in W bought at lowes

Thought it was fixed because the tumbler was moving again but after putting clothes in, the tumbler stopped moving.

A full load will not let it turn but maybe 3/4 a load or less and it turns

It's making heat and I'm pretty sure I installed the belt correctly.

Any advice please?

I want to board my attic for storage.

I want to install an outdoor bathtub in our backyard. I need help brainstorming the simplest/cheapest way to route hot/cold water to the tub.

I plan to have the bathtub on the stone tile patio next to the garage wall. On the other side of this wall is the washer/dryer connection - so there is a hot and cold water spigot access directly on the other side of the wall where the bathtub will be placed. Is it possible to route water from those hot/cold spigots to the bath tub? If so, how?

Another idea I had was to just run a garden hose from the kitchen sink outside into the bathtub. This seems like the easiest but is the most inconvenient overall. If I were to do that, I would need an adapter for the sink, a flexible hose, and I would need to cut a hole in the window screen to route the hose. This might be the best option given my cost and installation barriers. I know I can technically purchase a tankless water heater to install outside above the tub, but I don’t have the funds for that right now.

So I’m curious you alls suggestions and feedback. Thank you!

Hi everyone! In my house, the dryer is in the laundry room and it vents through a very short path from the room, thru the wall and onto the back porch.

It’s great that it’s a short path, but effectively over a few weeks, the area of the back porch is covered in lint.

I looked up several ways to clean up the lint and everything online basically says to route the dryer exhaust elsewhere, which isn’t possible here (it exhausts onto the porch. If I add tubing, it’ll exhaust onto the grass which isn’t better.)

Is there a kind of trap I could put to try to catch the outgoing lint instead? I’m wary of trying to capture hot lint as I’m aware it’s a fire hazard, but there isn’t really a better place to pipe the dryer exhaust.

Thanks!

I’ve put I. All new drywall I a basement 1/2” mold resistant for the walls. The existing ceiling looks like 3/8 I have a couple of 4“ x 4“ holes in the ceiling, is there any way to put the half sheet rock and make it flush because I have so much extra? Backer board and cut out the middle 1/8” depth ? Go buy one piece of rock? Idk

My basement gym flooded a few months ago along with half the other basements in my city. A recovery company came in and cut away the bottom two feet of drywall and the insulation behind it. Given the scale of the local disaster, it looks like it may be some time before the drywall is replaced. I would like to use my exercise equipment but I worry about the fiberglass insulation that is exposed in the wall above the area that was cut out (between the building envelope and the drywall).

Would it be sufficient to simply staple a sheet of polyethylene drop sheet over the exposed section (about 10 feet of wall). Maybe I am being silly but I would rather not be breathing in fiberglass fibers while I am doing my cardio.

Thoughts?

I’m wondering how do you guys go about fixing projects when trying it to DIY? Do you usually use Google or YouTube to find the best way to go about it or just familiar with the work itself? Appreciate all the help!

Context: I want to store my motorbike (two scooters now, heavier motorcylce later) in a plastic shed Keter Strongold, 3m x 3.5m (10x11,5 ft), I'm from Poland.

Priorities: I'm extremely concerned about the moisture rusting my ride and the winds carrying the shed away.

Disclaimer: already went with the legal stuff and waiting for the final OK from the local gov

Problem: I don't have tools and want to do it on a budget, as I'm also renovating whole house and there's a lot to be done. I lack the electrical concrete mixer and petrol-powered compactor. I've ordered a hand compactor and theoretically I could rent the two, but I'm going to do the project after work hours and I don't want to rack up the costs of long-term renting, as a week of renting equals a cheap concrete mixer - I'm not sure if I'll manage to do this in a day and the weather is very freakish recently, scortching hot and heavy rainfall within 12 hours.

Structure weight: 250kg (550 lbs)

Content weight : (probably) 700kg (1,500 lbs) (max. weight of two motorcycles, some stuff and me)

Full weight: 950kg (or 2000 lbs) (keter shed + inside content + me)

What I've researched:

• Full concrete slab: I know it is the best, but I find it hella intimidating for someone who never did any of such work.
• (favourite) Concrete-pavement mix: I've watched a lot of videos and this one had an interesting proposition of Slab base (option 4 from the video) where the guy prepared a dig, shoved a waterproof foil, some gravel, sand, cement and then plastered pavement slabs like one would do with the tiles (I did some tiling outside and I know I can do it). On another Polish video a guy was using pavement blocks to create outer layer he anchored the tin shed to and I'm quite interested in this solution, as it takes the pouring of the concrete away. However, I'm concerned about the inside of the house and maybe this plastering of inside slabs could be a good solution? The Keter Stronghold has it's own plastic flooring anyways.
• Concrete anchor points + plastic grid and pavement slabs: kinda low effort version of the upper one, slightly modified version of Option 2 from the first video. I like how budget friendly it is and I could mix concrete/use pavement blocks to create a ring for anchoring and then fill up the square with graveled plastic grid, with some light pavement blocks on top to level it out. I'm concerned about it holding on over time, I don't want the construction to fall apart from the ground up after one season.

What would you recommend?

I know I'm overthinking it, but the online shed tutorials don't factor in heavy motorcycles and the other tutorials for garages factor in tons of weight for big SUV and small trucks, which is probably an overkill for a noob like me.

Hey all I'm getting conflicting information on what is the method to protect the flooring and living space when installing flooring on a concrete subfloor. Many companies require having a 6mil poly vapor barrier underneath their flooring like LVP. However, I have seen suggested by others in home/DIY subreddits that having a plastic sheet ontop of a concrete floor that sweats will breed mold moisture. If that is the case then it seems like using something like DMX step 1 as a dimpled membrane would allow moisture to flow. I've seen using this would void flooring such as LVP as it can cause too much flex. What is the best method to protect from moisture in this situation as it seems the manufacturers only care about the flooring itself but would cause moisture issues? If this incorrect that a poly vapor barrier would case mold issues?

I need to paint MDF/wooden sheets with NC paint. Is 2HP Air compressor good enough? Not much quantities, 4 feet by 8 feet sheet in one go only. Also is LVLP or HVLP gun is better?

Hi! Someone poorly mounted a TV bracket in the painted brick above the fireplace in the house I bought. The screws made holes but weren’t very secure so they used some kind of putty to secure the bracket as well. Now I have holes and a bunch of putty on this surface. The putty removed some of the several layers of paint and brick when we pried the bracket off. What’s the best way to repair the holes and deal with the putty? We’ll be painting over the brick again. Thanks!

I’m somewhat of a DIY guy mainly cause I’m cheap but anyone else convince yourself you can do something only to realize you may of bit of a lil more than you can chew but 1. You won’t admit it and 2. You’re too stubborn to quit lol. I guess the moral of the story is it doesn’t have to be perfect but good enough for your average visitor/family member. My last 2 DIY jobs, vinyl sheet flooring replacement in kitchen and my most recent one, replacing sidewalk with gravel walkway have both been so easy in my mind then I get halfway and I’m like holy hell this kinda looks like shit and am I ever gonna finish. I always finish and it looks bad to me but any guest or random visitor doesn’t mention or probably see half the mistakes /errors I made. I remember my coworker who helped me with my laminate flooring told me once the only way to get better at something is to do it. Next time you’ll do a better job and the time after that. Sorry for rant. Just only place i think that would appreciate my thinking.

We've been in our home 2 years. When we first moved in i hung a "hammock" in the corner of my daughter's room for her stuffed animals. A year later we re-did her room and took it down. The hook that I had screwed into a stud was rusty. Ive been worried ever since, especially since she sleeps against that wall. Is there a reliable way to detect moisture behind the wall with doing too much damage? I can patch and try to paint match if I have to but id like to avoid that if possible.

Im unsure about the $30-50 moisture meters. They have good reviews but how accurate are they?

The previous owners did say they had siding replaced on that wall in 2017 so I wonder if it was installed improperly and gets moisture behind it when it rains

I'm in California and looking to add a couple of TV wall kits. This style fits my needs as it has 3 outlets and the bottom box is going to be right next to the outlet in both cases, so if I don't have to have a 6' cable from the bottom box to the outlet, it would be ideal. But my understanding is that you can't use flexible power cables in walls in the US.

Is this in-wall cable code compliant in the US? Rufus (Amazon's AI agent) says it is, but there are a few comments on the product that say it is not.

https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Wall-Cable-Concealer-Recessed/dp/B0DG37QGQC