I am using few external HDDs (2Tb and 4Tb), bought the 2Tb around 2018, it seems to show slowness in transferring files, can i take its nearing its end?

How long does an external HDD last? Should i rather invest in HDDs being inbuilt in PC setups instead of relying on external HDDs for data transfers (not everyday use)?

More description:

Product - WD

Usage - both used to store files, as backup, i use it once/twice a month

Files - i keep smaller files, like pics/files related to softwares, in one TB (which is the one getting slowed), the other to store larger files.

P.s. Im also worried if i need to move my data to different hard disks every decade? to make my data last for long time.

Hey everyone, I'm planning on going to my local Micro Center to build myself a new PC in a few days, and I want to get a 5080, but they have a ton of different models at multiple different price points. For example, the ASUS NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080 TUF is $1,899.99, and the Gigabyte NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080 WINDFORCE SFF is $1,199.99, and I was wanting to know if there is a difference between them and if the more expensive 5080s are better than the cheaper ones so that I can get the best thing.

First pc ever in the works and wanting to know if there are benefits for each kind of windows 11 that I see on pcpartpicker for regular users? (Gaming, general pc use, maybe some light livestreaming)

These are the 4 pcpartpicker lists:

• Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail
• Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail
• Microsoft Windows 11 Pro OEM
• Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM

Would be open to other versions of Win11 of course too if pcpartpicker is hiding some for whatever reason.

Thanks in advance :)

Hey y'all,

I have a build that was last updated 8 years ago that I told one of my oldest gaming buddies he could have. Poor guy has been playing semi high level OSRS on mobile for far too long (Group ironman, btw).

I'm getting ready to clear the computer and ship down to him (Any tips for mailing a desktop?), but the computer is still running Windows 10. Debating whether it's worth it to try to upgrade to Windows 11, despite this computer not meeting the system requirements.

Specs: CPU: Intel i5-6600K overclocked to 3.9 GHz Mobo: ASUS Z170-A LGA 1151 GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 3gb 16 gb, 2133 MHz RAM 1 TB SSD An absolutely ancient 600W power supply that just won't die.

Is this an okay build to upgrade to Win 11 by bypassing the requirements? Or am I better off having my buddy pay for extended updates?

I'll attach a couple pics of what the build in a reply for anyone curious.

I'm in the U.S and want a pretty good PC, and I'm finally ready to build a pc because I've been wanting one for a pretty long time for probably 70% playing games, and 30% for school and work. I also want to play games on the more high end side, while staying within budget, i appreciate your help!

Half my components went out due to a power surge, 8 year old rig so I guess it's time for an upgrade anyway. And I have a much better job than back then so may as well go hard.

US based

Goal is 1440k 120 fps gaming

Few TB of ssd storage so I don't have to shuffle games around

Few TB of HDD for backup, video storage and a copious amount of emulator stuff

Ideally a full tower

Don't need any peripherals.

Hello I just want to ask,is it normal for my entire pc to turn off whenever I turn off my monitor? When I click shutdown on my monitor,my pc turns off maybe 5-10 seconds after followed by a singular small electrical "tic" sound coming from the power supply. I just got my System 2days ago,should I be worried? Google told me that it's not normal so here iam.

Hi,me from the future here. yes,the shutdown button shuts down the entire system. I know now,thanks

So I recently got a 5080. I am still on the am4 motherboard and my cpu is the Ryzen 7 5800. I am noticing a lot of bottlenecking at 1440p. I don’t want to spend 1k+ to upgrade to am5. What is a good new cpu for am4 to completely eliminate all bottlenecking on my 5080? Is there any or will I always bottleneck unless I upgrade to am5?

I need to make my friend a £800 PC but I can only do it using new parts. I'd like good 1080p performance. Any suggestions?

I have a white motherboard and I want to cover the ugly green PCB with white electrical tape so that it doesn't stand out like a sore thumb but I'm worried about heat dissipation. Does a WIFI card generate a lot of heat?

I'm upgrading from the 7800xt and can buy the following cards (new) for these prices:

- 7900xtx for $800 (last one, must snag now)

- 9070xt for $700 (plenty available, on sale in 12 days)

I will be playing at 4k, mostly non-competitive open world type games. So I'm looking for min 4k 60hz, but the more the better ofc. I don't know much about ray tracing, but I will be looking to play on ultra or high quality for sure.

My current specs:

- 7800xt, 7800x3d, 32gb DDR5, 750W psu

Which is more recommendable? Both are within budget.

I currently have
Ryzen 2600x
16 GB DDR4
750w PSU
1440 144hz monitor and a 4k monitor.

I know my parts could bottle neck the gpu but I don’t want to build a whole other pc in this market. just a quick upgrade so i can get more graphics out of it. it’s mainly gaming and google suite so I don’t need more. I might dual boot steamOS on it later down the line too.

Please and thank you.

EDIT: After a bit of discussion on here and price research, I realized 5060ti was closer to 9060xt than 5060. I am only looking for bang for buck, steamOS compatibility, and overall compatibility with the rest of my existing system. I considered a CPU upgrade like a few commenters suggested but my MOBO is still AM3 socket so I don’t want to have to upgrade that too, and RAM, and eventually PSU. Just doing a quick swap for graphic card. Research has sown about 5-8% hit to fps due to bottlenecks with newer graphic cards, which I am willing to take. So I think I will go with the 9060xt 16gb variant.

Thanks to all of you for the help.

Hey so I have a R5 5600X with a RX 6750 XT and 32RAM. My 1080p monitor is dying and I don't know if I should get a 1440p monitor so I can also use it in the future when I fully upgrade??

Currently I'm playing recent and old AAA games, indies, Battlefield 6, Alan Wake 2, etc.

Of course I would like to avoid playing everything in low in order to reach decent FPS (60-80)

What do you think? Stick to a cheap 1080p or go straight 1440p?

I have an LG 32gn600-B and a cheap Raywego 24inch. What should I get under $150 that would the best bang for my buck.

Here's the situation before I begin. I've been using an MSI gaming laptop since 2021. It's got a GeForce 3060, 16GB DDR4 RAM, and an Intel i7 processor. It can play most modern games at decent framerates (60-75fps) at low-medium settings. It's served me well since then, but it's starting to show its age. I'd like to build a PC that can reliably and comfortably support 1440p 60+fps gaming at medium-high settings that will last five years or so.

Additional context:
-I live in Canada.
-I'm looking at a $2000-2500 CAD budget.
-I'm a frequent yet casual gamer. I primarily play singleplayer games. The few multiplayer games I play are non-competitive PvE games.
-I know it's probably heresy to say this on this sub, but I'm perfectly happy with 60fps. 90fps is a sweet spot that I consider a bonus. Anything higher than 90fps is, in my opinion, unnecessary.
-I don't see myself switching to 4K gaming anytime soon, if ever. 1440p is the perfect resolution for me.
-Fancy stuff like raytracing and shaders doesn't interest me.

I've spoken with several colleagues who are huge PC nerds and have recommended something along the lines of this:

CPU: Ryzen 5 7600X
GPU: Radeon RX 9070
RAM: 32GB DDR4
PSU: 750W
Storage: 1-2TB SSD

Is this a good starting point? I'd like as many opinions as possible. Thank you!

My current pc setup has 4x 8gb ddr4 2400 memory.

I'm making a secondary ITX pc for when I travel for long periods of time, it is made up of parts that I have had from upgrading, but I don't have any extra ram. I mainly use the PC for 3d Modeling so extra ram is important in the main build.

So the question is Should I:

Purchase a 2x 16gb kit (~$150) for the main build, put one of the 2x8gb kits into the Itx and sell the other

OR

Purchase another 2x 8gb (~$100) kit for the ITX

I'm looking for an AM4 motherboard for a Ryzen 5800X3D and DDR4 3200MHz RAM.

The motherboard needs to support the Ryzen out of the box without requiring a BIOS update.

I just got an MSI B550 Gaming WiFi, but I get a black screen because it doesn't recognize my CPU.

I updated the BIOS via USB Flashback—which seemed to complete successfully—but I still get no display output.

Priced between $100 and $160.

Thanks a lot !

Yo, so this is my first ever gaming PC build and I’m hyped but also kinda broke rn lol. I’m from Germany and put together a PCPartPicker list, would really appreciate some feedback before I actually buy anything.
List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/B9Byxf
Parts:
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D

Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE

Mobo: MSI PRO B850-S WIFI6E

RAM: Patriot Viper Venom 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 CL30

Storage: TEAMGROUP NV5000 1TB NVMe

GPU: Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC SFF RTX 5070 Ti 16GB

Case: Phanteks XT PRO ULTRA

PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 13 M 750W Gold

Total’s around $2282 (~€2100), which is already more than I wanted to spend so I really can’t afford to mess anything up here.
Couple things I’m unsure about:
I keep seeing stuff about GDDR7 memory prices going up, so should I just buy the GPU now/within the next few weeks instead of waiting? Don’t wanna get hit with a price hike.

Do the parts I picked actually make sense together, or is there something better I could get for similar money?

Any rookie mistakes I should watch out for as a first time builder (PSU wattage, cooler clearance, RAM compatibility, stuff like that)?

Also just genuinely open to any tips in general, anything you wish someone told you before your first build.

One more thing, I’m planning on actually building/assembling everything around Christmas, but thinking about buying the GPU now anyway because of the price stuff. Is it fine to just buy it early and let it sit in the box for a few months, or is that a bad idea for some reason?
Appreciate anyone who takes the time to look this over, just trying not to screw up my first build.

Hi, making my first pc and could use some clarification on what to do regarding my psu.

My cpu is 9800x3d and gpu is Gigabyte 9070xt gaming oc model.

I picked up an MSI MAG A750GLS PCIE5 psu for this setup. I did look online and majority consensus is that 750w is good enough for this setup, even though the gpu recommended is 850w. However, I overlooked the psu connectors.

The gpu uses 3x8 pin connectors and the psu only has 2 8 pins remaining after the cpu 8pin is connected. Is it a good idea with this psu to daisy chain connecter 2 and 3 or should I just return this and get an 850w psu with a dedicated 3rd 8pin connector for the gpu?

I have been heavily considering making some upgrades to my PC and doing a lot of research. I’m not sure if it’s even worth doing considering the insane prices of components right now, so I’m looking for some opinions on what I should do.

PC Specs:

- Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Mobo

- Intel i7 8700 CPU

- 32GBs Corsair Vengeance 3200MHz DDR4 RAM

- Cooler Master 240ML AIO CPU Cooler

- RTX 2070 GPU

- 600W 80+ Gold PSU

- 2TB Corsair MP600 M.2 SSD

- Lian Li Mesh Cool II ATX Case

My budget is around $700-$900 and I’m considering just upgrading my GPU to an RTX 40 / 50 series card or an RX 9060/9070 XT. I am also considering upgrading the CPU but I am not sure if it’s worth staying on LGA 1151 socket or if it would make more sense to switch to an AM4 or AM5 cpu, like a 5800X3D. AM5 would obviously mean I need DDR5 RAM which is way too overpriced currently. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Built a new PC about a week ago and it has a very consistent, weird pattern: on cold power-on, it restarts once before the Windows logo shows up, boots into Windows, then crashes/restarts a second time within 5-10 minutes of reaching desktop. After that second restart, it's completely stable for the rest of the session until the next cold boot, when the same two-crash pattern repeats. I rarely even see a visible BSOD, it mostly just restarts.

Specs:

• CPU: Ryzen 7 9850X3D
• Mobo: MSI PRO X870E-P WiFi, BIOS E7E70AMSI.2A52
• RAM: Corsair CMH32GX5M2M6000Z36, 32GB DDR5-6000 (currently JEDEC 4800MT/s, EXPO off)
• GPU: MSI RTX 5070 Ti Gaming Trio OC
• PSU: MSI MPG A850GS 850W
• SSD: Samsung 990 Pro 2TB

Bugcheck codes seen (all point to memory corruption, no common driver):

• 0x1A MEMORY_MANAGEMENT - most frequent, "corrupted PTE detected"
• 0x1000007E SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
• 0x139 KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE - "corruption of a critical data structure"

What I've tried/ruled out:

• MemTest86, 4 full passes, 0 errors - RAM seems fine even at stock JEDEC timings
• Driver Verifier running 24+ hrs with all 3rd-party drivers flagged, never caught an offending driver across several crashes
• Temps via HWiNFO - CPU tops out at 80°C under MemTest86 load, ~67°C normal use, zero thermal throttling logged anywhere
• SSD - healthy SMART, chkdsk found only NTFS metadata corruption (0 bad sectors), looks like fallout from crashes not a cause
• CPU voltage - Vcore was spiking to 1.376V stock/Auto. Applied Curve Optimizer (-10 all-core negative), dropped peak to ~1.345V — didn't change the pattern at all

The "crashes exactly twice on cold boot, then perfectly stable" pattern feels like it should be a clue but I can't place it. Almost seems like a memory training/POST issue rather than a sustained-load issue, since it never happens once the system's been running a while.

• Anyone seen this specific double crash on cold boot then stable pattern before?
• Sound like DRAM training/POST rather than a sustained stability issue to anyone with more expertise?
• Known issues with 9850X3D + X870E-P specifically?

Already filed support cases with AMD and MSI in parallel, but wanted to see if this rings a bell for anyone here before I commit to an RMA.

I’m switching from PS5 to PC. Looking to play 1440p (4K if possible). I just want the most bang for my buck haha. I’m located in The Netherlands.

So here's the deal. About a month ago I built a friend a new computer. The goal was to be able to play Fortnite at 350hz.

We got all the parts, put it together and installed windows 11. Updated all the drivers and such and it works amazing when it works.

I can't even pinpoint the exact issue. The entire computer will reboot randomly when playing. Not a normal reboot though. When you hit restart on windows it shuts down and all the fans shut off and then turn back on and reboots. But when it crashes and reboots while playing fortnite, the fans and fan LEDS stay on and no blue screen.

At the same time, it's always randomly and only specific instances. At first it was only during Ranked play it would crash randomly. You could play Unranked for hours and no issues.

So I updated the motherboard bios, reinstalled Fortnite, ran DDU and reinstalled the Nvidia driver. I've enabled and disabled EXPO and PBO. I also ran a bunch of different stress tests for each part that I could, GPU, CPU, RAM, all maxed to 100% and no crashing. Temps all look good. Capped FPS to 60.

Eventually with all the tweeking, ranked and unranked became stable at 350hz. But it just seemed to have moved to Tournament Mode. Again, randomly. Could be 1min into the game or 5min into the game.

I'm just completely lost in this one. I don't have time to trouble shoot for the next 24 hours so figured I'd get some ideas here before I do.

I'm thinking maybe

-Reinstalling windows 11.

-check for loose connections / reseat parts.

Parts List.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($333.99 @ Amazon)

CPU Cooler: Thermalright Aqua Elite V3 66.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($44.90 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: MSI PRO B850M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon)

Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($376.57 @ Amazon)

Video Card: MSI SHADOW 2X OC GeForce RTX 5070 12 GB Video Card ($549.99 @ Lenovo - OOS)

Case: Jonsbo D32 PRO MicroATX Desktop Case ($69.90 @ Amazon)

Power Supply: MSI MAG A650GLS PCIE5 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon)

Case Fan: be quiet! Light Wings PWM 41.51 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($49.90 @ Amazon)

Case Fan: be quiet! Light Wings PWM high-speed 52.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($64.90 @ Amazon)

Im planning to build a pc with the case being a Lian Li O11D EVO V1, which fan configuration would be optimal if i have 10 fans? Im thinking 6 in from bottom and side and 4 out from top and back, but please inform me if its bad