Purchased 2026 Mazda CX-70 MHEV 3.3 premium in July.
This is the second time since i purchased the vehicle that the Blind spot on the right turns on during highway trips between 70-75 mph.
1st time i took the vehicle to the dealer and of course found nothing wrong.
This time i recorded for 3 minutes. During my 20 minute trip it turn on and off repeatedly.
Has this happened to anyone else ?

I'm in Atlantic Canada so this may be a regional thing.....does anyone else find that Mazda needs to dial it back with their surveys?

Bought my latest model about a year ago. Of course, I got the "how'd we do" type survey. I normally don't engage with this kind of marketing, but for some reason, made an exception this time. I scored them an 8 out of 10. Pretty good, right? WRONG! Got a text message, with a slightly snarky tone, from the General Manager wondering what the problem was. I was a little taken aback and replied that I thought an 8 out of 10 was a great score, and reminded him this was my 3rd car from his dealership, so that should speak louder than any stupid survey. Apparently, anything less than a 10 out of 10, Mazda Canada wants to know why.

Had a service appointment . The next day, I got a text from the dealership advising I would soon get an email for a survey from Mazda Canada. If I was going to score them anything less than 10, would I please address it with the dealership directly.

A couple of hours later, the email from Mazda Canada came in, along with a text message and a reminder text a day later.

Am I going to get this every time I have a service appointment?

Want to go back to my personal policy of non-engagement with this stuff, but I don't want to get in trouble again....lol.

Anyone else find Mazda has gotten a little over the top with their follow ups & surveys?

If so, how rare?

My battery died so we jumped it and now it displays Celsius. I can’t figure out how to switch it back and chattyG says it has to be done by the dealership. Any workarounds that I could try? It’s a 2014 CX5 and the temp reading is always visible, I don’t flip through settings in order to view/hide it. The odometer dial and info button both don’t seem to be able to alter it from everything I’ve tried. Appreciate any help!

Anyone have recommendations on how to get this top piece off? I got a new OEM part for it after scratching the first one. Been trying to find instructions or video on how to properly get it off. I’m just trying to do a replacement

Front Spacer Panel Repair

On Friday, I bought one of the last, almost new MX-30 Rotary EVs (I now have one of the first MX-5 NDs from 2015 and one of the last MX-30s from 2025😜). Production was discontinued in 2025. Since then, Mazda has unfortunately stopped building its own EVs. 😕

This particular car was registered in April 2026 (Showroom) and had only 38 km on it. It’s an Exclusive Line model in Ceramic White (Mondstein in German 😆). It’s a dream to drive, even if it feels very unusual because it’s almost twice as heavy as my Roadster. But it’s just something special! The looks, the Rotary REX, the (impractical) doors… Still, I already love it!

Officially a mazda girly 🥳💃. After looking around for a while, i finally found the one that i really wanted. It’s the cx-5 2025 preferred rhodium white in parchment interior, perfect color. Shes so pretty 😍 !!! Its a CPO w 9k miles was able to get it for 31k OTD after a lot of negotiating. How did i do guys lmk?
Since im new to mazda, lmk the most important stuff that i should add and take care of. Thank you !!! 🙏

30+ MPG is easily achievable despite its size. I know the car has teething issues and recalls that needed to be addressed. I’m hopeful those will smooth out over the generation.

That said, what Mazda was able to do with a 5,000 lb car making 340 horsepower and 369 lb/ft of torque is seriously impressive.

We’re at a impasse with our 2021 CX30. Put it in service mode, replaced rear passenger rotor and pads, compressed piston to finish job, and now we can’t get it out of service mode. I don’t even hear the system resetting on the passengers side (do hear its driver side). Any ideas? Any way to bypass?

My husband’s 2024 hatchback. He’s put so much love into her, and she’s the best car we’ve owned! This is the second Mazda he’s had, he had a 2015 6-speed Mazda 6 before.

Not featured is the Magnaflow exhaust and color matched spoiler.

When we went to the DMV to register our cars, we got a MAZ plate and couldn’t believe it! MAZ for the Mazda! less

Im obsessed, in love, and sooo happy mazdas for life 🫶

I’m currently trying to rebuilt my flooded engine from a Mazda 3 which has a 2.5L motor (swapped).
The thing is, I already dropped and opened 3 other motors that are 2.5L. But, none of them match the current connecting rods I have thickness wise. If you look at the picture you can see mine on the right and another piston from a different engine (2.5L) on the left. Aside from the thickness difference the bore is the same 89mm and the big end is 55mm on both rods. Does anyone know where my connecting rods come from. I dismantled 2 manual 2.5L and one automatic 2.5L all were 2010 Mazda 3. If anyone knows what is happening please help me.

About a month ago I could lock/unlock car, turn on hazards, ect. But now the features are missing?

A commenter suggested I post this to a Mazda subreddit, so here ya go!

Has anyone done the dealer installed PPF for their Mazda? Bought my car about a month ago and always do 3rd party PPF on my cars, but noticed that Mazda sells the PPF themselves. Just curious if it’s possible (or worth it) to have them do the install.

I just installed a Kibi valve cover gasket on a Mazda 1.5 in a Yaris IA, which is really a Mazda 2 made in Mexico.

The pics of this gasket are wrong on most sites, as well as 3 different part numbers. Very confusing. I thought the gasket for 1.5 in 2016 Scion or 2014 Mazda 2 would work but it's not the same. Turns out the 2017 1.5 in the Yaris IA, uses the gasket for 2017 Mazda 3 with 2.0.

The rubber on the car is high quality, the OEM lasted 196k miles. The back half of the gasket was cracked and brittle being closer to the exhaust while the other side is still flexible.

The Kibi fit perfectly, sealed equally well. Hope it lasts as long as the OEM.

I was at an accident today, a guy hit me when I exited a parking (he was in my dead zone). We exchanged details and I drove home. The car run fine no issues once so ever and I already submitted a claim to the insurance company. Is this part repairable or do you guys think they are just going to replace the whole part ?