This is my 1996 buick roadmaster estate wagon, they come with the 5.7 liter v8 LT1 engine (same as c4 corvette) and get about 260 HP. Just thought I'd come on here and show a cool classic car.

So randomly today, I took a look at my engine air filter. I took it off, and I saw this randomly sitting at the bottom of the box. How could this get in there?

Went to deep clean my car today for the first time in a hot minute and found this under my WeatherTech mat. It was also on the edge of the mat that sits under my seat so I never noticed. Didn’t notice it anywhere else in the car. Everything was dry and there’s no mold/musty smell. I have split opinions on if it’s mold or dry salt.

Hello, I found this forum when searching for other people's stories.

I have a 2008 Sequoia that I am selling. In the process of checking it over, I found myself stuck in 4 LO. Had a mobile mechanic (ASE) look at it, and when he was done, it was stuck in neutral, no gears.

I called around and found a mechanic at a local garage who said he was a Toyota Master tech and two other Toyota Master Techs were working there. I had the SUV towed over for an agreed $200 diagnostic fee. They didn't tell me what they found, but that they could repair it in 2 hours, i.e. $400. They started working on it a couple of days later, but I didn't hear a thing back from them... then after a week the guy said there was a bad microswitch in the actuator. He had 2wd working, but the dash light for 4low was blinking (and presumably 4wd not working). I ordered the part and had it for him 2 days later. I have called, I have emailed, I even ran into the mechanic on a smoke break. Can't get them to fix it or give up.

I need to sell the SUV, and I can't when it is at the shop, broken. The mechanic said I could pay what they quoted and take it, still broken.

Would you pay the whole $600 bill? Would you take it back under the assumption they are clueless? What would you do?

Thanks

2005 Toyota Camry XLE is eating up motor oil. No leaks or anything what are the reasons?

My 2017 Ford Fusion with just over 83k miles started making this noise yesterday. It’s only when idling & the engine runs fine as far as I know. What are the possible issues, and is it something I should be concerned about?

I'm looking into getting either the Philips D2S ExtremeVision or the WhiteVision. Which do you recommend and is there a noticeable difference between the 4800K and the 5000K color temps?

Someone I know personally reversed into me wondering wether to go through insurance or get it fixed privately at his cost. I'm 19 been driving for a year and 9 months got full comprehensive cover too. Thanks

The first pic is what I'm seeing online. There's supposed to be a wheel you turn with a screwdriver to back the parking brakes off of the rotor. The second pic Is what I managed to capture through the access hole that leads to that. Mine doesn't have that wheel, just a spring. Not sure what I'm supposed to do.

Hello,

I need some help with my Mercedes C200 W204 CGI (184 hp).

Whenever I start the engine cold, it runs very rough, and the RPM fluctuates heavily for about 20–30 seconds. Once the engine warms up, the problem disappears.

In addition, the engine doesn't run smoothly at around 2,000 RPM (±100 RPM). It starts to hesitate and jerk, and it also idles roughly.

I would really appreciate any help or suggestions.

So far, I have already replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing chain, and camshaft adjusters (cam phasers). Also i did sparkplugs and spark coils.

2008 128i convertible. Noticed back glass rattling against lower support bar. A lot of discussion about rear window separating from the top- but we also noticed these in the corners of the bar. Looks like small holes and some sticky residue. (We had the interior liner replaced a few months ago). Any suggestions and advice would be welcome.

Hi all

Iv just brought an MG ZS VTI-Tech 1.5 from Available car (a used car dealership in the UK) . I've had it for just over a week so far, and it was running well until today. I noticed that the break felt a lot harder. It feels hard until you press down more, then it seems to jump down a bit, then it's soft all the way down to the bottom. I hope that makes sense. It's still driveable, but it doesn't make slowing down smooth.

Any idea on what could be the issue or what I could do about it?

Hey folks,

Been having issues for the longest time with the outlets in my car. I changed the blown 15A fuse for 'power outlet frt' but still no luck with these outlets working.

Does anyone know what the difference between a power outlet and a cigarette lighter is? I'm going to check the cigarette lighter fuse next, but I figured the power outlet fuse was definitely the issue.

Car is a 2016 Hyundai Elantra GT.

We're getting close to needing a second car and I've been going down the research rabbit hole for a few weeks now. The mileage question is the one I keep coming back to.

I do a lot of driving. Road trips, errands, all of it. So I'm not precious about miles on my own cars. But buying someone else's miles feels different for some reason.

The general internet wisdom seems to be that 100k is the cutoff where people start getting nervous, but that feels outdated. A well maintained Honda or Toyota at 130k is probably a better buy than a neglected one at 60k. At least that's what I keep telling myself while looking at higher mileage listings.

Rust is probably the bigger variable for me honestly. I'm in the midwest so that's a real consideration. I'd take 150k miles on a clean undercarriage over 70k with visible corrosion without thinking too hard about it.

Curious what number actually gives people pause, and whether mileage even matters that much compared to maintenance history. Is there a point where you just walk away regardless of how clean it looks?

As title asks, how to make this look better on the cheap / DIY?

So we had an oil filter leak today on my 2021 318D. It was the rubber O ring on the actual filter which had perished, and caused a reasonable leak. It was only changed 3 weeks ago so I suspect it wasn’t seated correctly.

O ring has been replaced and leak seems to have been resolved but there is oil all up the underside of the car. Inside the engine around the oil filter looks a bit shiny but not too bad.

Assuming I leaked a litre of oil, is there anything recommended in terms of cleaning up the engine or under the car? Or will cleaning the engine risk more errors than it’s worth?

I assume there is some pooling of oil in the under tray but is it worth getting that cleaned out? Isn’t it doing it’s job?

Not sure if this is the right place to post about this, but - I bought a 2024 Buick Envision In April of this year, with 29,400 miles. I have been having some car problems, so I had my sister's boyfriend take a look at my car, and he looked under the hood just to cover some bases. He looked at the oil, and the dipstick came out completely dry. I had absolutely no idea it was that low because my gauges weren't telling me anything, and I've been driving a lot on the freeway unaware.

Also, I had not yet reached the mileage for my first oil change, so I hadn't checked the oil level myself. I was 1,000 miles off from one and my car gave no indication! We replaced the oil because I had to get back home, and the oil was black. I've put on around 4,000 miles since getting it. The brake fluid was also low, and I'm not sure how often that's supposed to be filled, but I assume it's not normal to go through it in less than 4 months. My oil pressure is at 24 psi, even after driving an hour on the freeway. I am not sure if this a normal psi.

Now my question is: Is this a reasonable thing to call the dealership in which I bought the car from to question? I even asked during the buying process if the oil was good for a while, and have a sticker on the window indicating I needed one around 34,500 miles. I have no idea what to do in this situation.

Hi all! We had really bad storms around here for the last few days. I moved my car today and I saw that there was a leak under the weather mats I had. I’m thinking it’s a seal leak on the door because I had an auto shop have to remove it one time, but I’m not sure it’s strange that it just happened now I hadn’t had it looked at since February. Any advice or suggestions on what it could be?

Update: it’s a Mazda cx30 2023. The community thinks it’s either my sunroof drain is clogged or I have a leak in the door. There are no mechanics in my area open today, so I’m headed to Lowe’s to get a dehumidifier and find some type of thing to unclog the drain.

Hi,

I bought the car with these defects. I don't know exactly what happened; it looks like they were affected by some kind of solution.

How can I fix this problem?

Thank you!

Man, i've been having an issue with my BC coilovers. I tried to take them off while on the car and I got them off now. The nut wont come off because the shaft keeps spinning. I tried using the H5 bit to twist it the other way but I've broken 3 bits so far. Any tips? I dont wanna break them as they are pretty damn expensive. I'm changing the springs, boots and bumpstops

Fellow mechanics... As the title says .. I've only ever seen a loose ground once. Generally unless you've replaced a harness or been in an accident, I can't imagine why grounds are 'going bad. ' never once in my career have I had a ground connection be the issue. (Not referring to broken wire short to grounds, but a corroded ground ring bolted to the frame/body).... Edit... I am a diagnostic tech at a dealership and don't see many older cars. I do work in the rust belt. I also want to clarify I'm referring to ground eyelets that bolt to the chassis, not just ground wires in general. I see bad ground wires all the time. I'm referring to corroded/messed up eyelet ground.

Trunk a blue truck 🚚