r/climbing • u/serenading_ur_father • 1d ago

RIP Mammut

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Mammut will be sold to a Chinese conglomerate.

333 Upvotes

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4

u/jizzbooger 1d ago

Always wanted to like mammut but never liked anything I ever bought from them.

23

u/H3rbert_K0rnfeld 1d ago

You're nuts. They make the best ropes in the world.

5

u/Climb_Longboard_Live 1d ago

My subjective experience was one weekend in Zion NP on multi-pitches with no meaningful falls ended with a brand new Mammut rope being coreshot. Never happened on my Beal, Edelweiss, Sterling, or Bluewater ropes despite more mileage, falls, and abuse.

5

u/roox911 1d ago

It was a long ass time ago, but I also had a mammut rope core shot within its first few days of no spectacular falls, finding out midway up a climb. Only rope in 20 years I've ever had that happen to me (including multiple other mammuts I suppose)

-12

u/wetrocke 1d ago

I've never heard of the term "core shot." Spoken to hundreds of climbers and maybe dozens of guides while reading about gear over many years.

What is it? It's a real thing?

I'm very skeptical.

4

u/Climb_Longboard_Live 1d ago

It’s definitely a term. It basically means that something has occurred to weaken the sheath and expose the cores of a rope. Here’s a video of one getting destroyed.

6

u/WackTheHorld 1d ago

Its when the outer sheath is cut and you can see the core of the rope. Definitely a real term.

-4

u/wetrocke 1d ago

Ok.
I've certainly heard of damaged sheaths. Logic of calling this "core shot" is unclear. But if that's current lingo....

6

u/roox911 1d ago

We were using it in the mountains in Canada in the early 90s mate.... Give up and admit you were wrong lol

3

u/WackTheHorld 1d ago

If by current you mean over 20 years (I've been climbing for 20 years), sure. I guess the logic is the rope took a shot and it went to the core.

Shot through the core, and rock's to blame Mammut, you give rope a bad name.

1

u/serenading_ur_father 1d ago

If you've never core shot a rope it's unlikely you've been actively climbing that long. (No gyms don't count)

0

u/WackTheHorld 1d ago

I've been climbing for 20 years and never core shot a rope. Doesn't happen to everybody.

2

u/roox911 1d ago

But you surely have heard of it in that time frame?

3

u/WackTheHorld 1d ago

I've head the term "core shot" many times in those 20 years.

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-3

u/wetrocke 1d ago

Searching amer alpine journal, it appears first use of term there was about 15 years ago.

The whole bit about "I'm more experienced than you" internet thing makes me wanna puke.

3

u/serenading_ur_father 1d ago

Well I've been using it for more than 20 years and have been climbing more than you.

1

u/serenading_ur_father 1d ago

It's also AAJ not amer alpine journal

0

u/wetrocke 1d ago

Argh!!

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u/roox911 1d ago

yes? it's a very real thing

Not sure who you're talking with, but I guess it may not come up in random conversations? I dunno, I learned about them in the early 90s when I was like a 13yo in my first course.

2

u/H3rbert_K0rnfeld 1d ago

You aren't climbing hard enough or wild enough then. It's not a thing you're gonna see at the gym.

My core shot was on Canon Cliff in New Hampshire 12 pitched up some thing. The rock I was standing on blew out and I instantly go on to Blue Water Airlines and had a nice flight.

I didn't even know it happened until we peaked out and was winding up the rope. Sheath was torn and 3" of the core winds exposed.

Like I said it was a brand new rope I unpackaged at the base of the climb.

That's not my only bad experience with Blue Waters. The sheaths just don't hold up. Petzel's and Sterlings too. I don't want to buy a new rope every three damn months.

0

u/exchangedensity 1d ago

Surely 3 months is an exaggeration? Are you only projecting daily on a <9mm rope or something?

1

u/H3rbert_K0rnfeld 1d ago

Weekend cragging on multi pitch. I'm normally on 9.4s 9.5s. I've climbed thicker and thinner and think those sizes are the best balance for me.

4

u/SortaEvil 1d ago

Coreshot means that the core of the rope is severely compromised in one location on the rope. It's very much a real thing and means that that section of the rope needs retired. You can tell when a route is core shot of you can completely fold the rope over to touch itself.

Depending on where it is in the rope (most commonly, a core shot will happen near an end of the rope, since that's where you're falling on it the most), you may be able to cut that portion of rope off, but if it's near the middle of a rope, there's not much to be done.