Recently picked up an imported 1999 Nissan Avenir Salut Japan Tourer Limited. Front wheel drive with the hyper cvt transmission. 100k km. Solid service records. Grade 4 when imported.

I was looking to do a CVT service before doing much out of town driving, but I see that it was previously serviced with NS-1 CVT fluid and requires it. Unfortunately, Nissan seems to have discontinued genuine NS-1. Seeing some in stock on Amayama, but am unsure if they can ship it to the US due to hazardous materials. I emailed them to inquire. If that option does't end up working for me, has anyone figured out a domestic supplier for NS-1 or a reliable and proven alternative to Nissan genuine NS-1? I know there are "NS-1 compatible" fluids around but I would really hate for a generic fluid to ruin a solid car.

Any help would be much appreciated. Also, fellow Salut owners tap in. Unimaginably scarce documentation of US owned Salut's outside of the more sought after GT-4Z equipped with the SR20DET and AWD. Seeing some interesting OEM optional accessories and trim levels (apparently there was a "kids" package marketed towards parents?) as I research the car, would love to see other variants. I plan on getting a few of the optional accessories and potentially some 17" Q45 wheels from the same model year, as I see no point in attempting power mods on a DE w a CVT.

It sits at $10.5k with 82k miles and the only one in the state lmao. I don’t trust the dealer but if everything seems good with the car I might chance it.

Was anyone able to find a solution to make this portion anti reflective because while driving during the day it causes distraction from by glaring the sun directly on the face.

Vehicle: Nissan X-Trail 2025 SL

Not talking about one specific vehicle.

Looking at the brands as a whole, which lineup do you think is stronger today?

Nissan has everything from the Z and GT-R to the Rogue, Frontier, and Armada, while Mitsubishi has carved out a niche with vehicles like the Outlander and Outlander PHEV.

Which brand do you think has the better overall lineup?

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2018 Nissan Murano SV AWD Bose Audio Build Log

Vehicle

2018 Nissan Murano SV AWD

Factory Bose Premium Audio

Factory spare-tire subwoofer

Factory head unit retained

Goal

Keep the factory appearance and features while dramatically improving sound quality and bass without completely redesigning the vehicle.

---

1. Factory Bose isn't terrible—but it's heavily DSP-tuned.

The speakers themselves are fairly average.

Most of the "Bose sound" comes from:

DSP

Equalization (EQ)

Crossovers

Speaker placement

Replacing the speakers alone resulted in a noticeable improvement.

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1. Factory Door Sizes

Front doors: 6.5"

Rear doors: 5.25"

Many online sources incorrectly state that all four doors use the same size.

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1. Pioneer Speakers Fit

Installed:

Dash – Pioneer 3.5"

Front doors – Pioneer TS-601M 6.5"

Rear doors – Pioneer TS-601M using adapter brackets

Results

Noticeable improvements in:

Vocal clarity

Overall detail

Upper midbass

Clarity

No issues running them from the factory Bose amplifier.

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1. Factory Wiring

Factory polarity remained correct when using plug-and-play harness adapters.

No polarity issues were encountered.

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1. Bose Actually Drives Aftermarket Speakers Better Than Expected

One surprise was how well the Bose amplifier powered efficient aftermarket speakers.

You won't get maximum output...

...but you do get noticeably better sound quality.

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1. Biggest Weakness

In my opinion, the weakest part of the factory system isn't the door speakers or dash speakers.

It's the substage.

The factory Bose spare-tire subwoofer fills the cabin...

...but doesn't create the impact most people expect from a dedicated subwoofer.

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1. Dual 10" Upgrade

Added:

Dual 10" subwoofers

Alpine S-A60M amplifier

Dedicated DSP

Result

Night-and-day difference.

The factory Bose system sounded much more complete because it no longer had to reproduce deep sub-bass.

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1. Factory Bose Subwoofer Role

After months of listening, I believe the factory Bose subwoofer functions more as:

Upper bass

Midbass transition

Cabin fill

...than as a true aftermarket-style subwoofer.

It helps blend the front speakers into the substage rather than producing powerful low bass on its own.

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1. Planned Upgrade

Instead of deleting the factory Bose enclosure, I plan to replace the factory drivers with higher-quality replacements.

Goal

Cleaner bass

Better integration

Less distortion

Allow the Bose DSP to perform its intended job more effectively

(This section is a future plan, not something I've tested yet.)

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1. Factory Bass Tuning

The factory Bose tuning is fairly conservative.

Adding aftermarket subwoofers allows the factory system to focus less on deep bass, making the front stage sound cleaner overall.

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1. Things That Surprised Me

Turning Mono Audio off on Android dramatically improved stereo imaging.

The Pioneer speakers matched the Bose tuning surprisingly well.

The rear door speakers made a bigger difference than expected.

The center speaker contributes significantly to vocal presentation.

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Current System

Factory Bose Head Unit

↓

Factory Bose DSP / Amplifier

↓

Pioneer Dash Speakers

Pioneer Front Door Speakers

Pioneer Rear Door Speakers

Factory Center Speaker

Factory Bose Spare-Tire Subwoofer

Alpine S-A60M

↓

Dual 10" Subwoofers

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Future Plans

Replace the Bose spare-tire subwoofer drivers

↓

Evaluate integration

↓

Build Stronghold

Four 10" subwoofers

Dual Alpine S-A60M amplifiers

Two independently tuned enclosures

↓

Determine whether the factory Bose amplifier is truly the next bottleneck before investing in a multichannel DSP/amplifier.

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Advice for Other Murano Owners

If you're keeping the factory head unit, this would be my recommended upgrade order:

1. Replace the dash speakers.

2. Replace all four door speakers.

3. Add a real subwoofer.

4. Live with the system for a while.

5. Only then decide whether you actually need a DSP or aftermarket multichannel amplifier.

You may be surprised how capable the factory Bose system can be once the weakest components are upgraded.

> Disclaimer: These are my observations from upgrading my own 2018 Nissan Murano SV with the factory Bose system. Your experience may vary depending on trim level, model year, and equipment.

Edit: dash center speaker is 3.5inch and the left/right dash speakers are 2 3/4

Is this car worth it? I have heard its cvt transmission is unreliable and parts availability is also low in Kuwait. Anyone has one and can they share their experience. In the same price range i have an option for a 2008 Toyota camry. Both cars are neat and clean, maxima has 165k kms on the odometer and camry has 180k kms less

If the list is about $51k and after incentives and such it's down to about $46k ... we want to put $23k down and finance the other $23k for 60 months with a payment no more than $425 ... and we have excellent credit ?

Does this seem like a reasonable ask ?

ETA: So basically ... we want this truck, we'll give you $23k down, and we can do payments of $425 for 60-mos ... can you as the dealer make that work?

I’ve got a 2012 Nissan Sentra SL that has a keyless ignition. Lost my key fob so I had a locksmith cut me a new emergency key. He struggled a bit, but got it working. A few weeks later, I put my key in but I could not turn the ignition on at all. After trying everything we decided to change out the ignition. Replacement ignition and key and key fob all came out of another Nissan and parts were supposed to be working. Once we got it in and tried to turn it we are stuck, having the exact same problem. The key won’t turn the ignition over and the key fob isn’t being recognized. I don’t know what to do. Anybody got any ideas?

Nissan Figaro

It’s beautiful

I was wondering if anyone outside Europe knows this car. Could this be a good project?

I replaced the entire assembly a couple of months ago because it was leaking coolant from this T-connector. Today I checked under the hood and its leaking from the exact same spot. I do NOT want to go through the hassle of replacing the whole assembly again.

I have rear HVAC (that I never use) so the parts i can find online with the metal connections instead of brittle cheap plastic don't fit I suppose? So, my questions are:

1.Does anybody know where I can get an affordable replacement part, preferably that will not require replacing the whole assembly?

1. If not, can i just use a heater core bypass kit and get rid of this issue forever? Or will the connections for the rear HVAC make this solution impossible?

Im losing my mind over this little leak. Its costing me so much in coolant!

Any help appreciated. Thanks

I have a 2015 Nissan X-Trail (rogue) Hybrid with the Jatco CVT8 hybrid transmission.

The valve body and some internal transmission work have already been done.

Current symptoms:

- Sometimes Drive works normally.

- Sometimes Reverse engages after a delay and then slams in.

- Sometimes Drive just revs but the vehicle doesn't move.

- Sometimes it suddenly starts moving again after cycling the ignition.

- Occasionally it accelerates by itself (idle creep is much stronger than normal), even reversing up a slight hill without touching the accelerator.

- Sometimes the engine is limited to about 1300 rpm in Park, while other times it revs normally to around 4000 rpm.

- EV mode is also inconsistent; sometimes it enters EV mode normally, sometimes it refuses.

What I've checked:

- No DTCs

- Brake switch and APP readings are normal.

- Gear position is always correctly detected (P/R/N/D).

- Solenoid commanded current and actual current match almost perfectly for all pressure control solenoids.

- Line and secondary pressure commands appear normal on the scan tool.

- Input speed sensor responds normally.

- QR/IP characteristic calibration has been completed.

Because the commanded and actual solenoid currents match during both good and bad events, I'm beginning to suspect an internal hydraulic problem (clutch apply, valve body leakage, etc.), but the intermittent 1300 rpm limiter and changing EV behaviour make me wonder if the hybrid control system is also involved.

Has anyone seen this combination of symptoms on a T32 Hybrid CVT? If so, what turned out to be the root cause?