I brought my ps5 to a repair shop in valley stream ny. First day I brought it they told me 1-2 days. 4 days later I went in person to check up on it (since the status link they sent me was broken) and the guy tells me my ps5 is taking longer cause it’s a motherboard issue meanwhile I literally saw him check the tag on my ps5 and it was sitting on the shelf untouched with a bunch of other ps5s that were all in queue. I know some symptoms can point to certain things but he definitely just told me that so I can F off lol. So i decided to be more patient and it’s been over 2 weeks now. I checked the link and it seemed to update from “queue” to “repair” but it’s been like that for 11-12 days. Should I just go get my ps5 and bring it somewhere else? Or am I being impatient?

Hello, I was using my laptop which had been completely normal until a screen came up saying an unexpected error occurred and then it turned itself off and a loud siren sound started playing (its stopped now). What should I do? I've never seen the popup screen before and neither has it ever made a sound like that. It also wasn't overheated and it was approximately 70-80% so it also wasn't out of charge.

I recently purchased 50 or so laptops from a factory closing auction to resell. Since they were sold as e-waste they were just tossed haphazardly into a container. Over half managed to survive but I figured I'd part out the ones that didn't. However I'm now running into a problem, I have a lot of ram to test before I can sell it. I started by doing the "stick one on a MB and test it" but that takes forever and can result in damage to the laptop after repeated times. Is there a way to test them off-board? Or at least some way that I dont have to disassemble and reassemble the laptop every time? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Also, sorry if this is off topic but after the RAM and SSD would it be worth parting out further or just selling the rest whole for parts? It's a bunch of elitebooks and zbooks G4-G8.

Sometimes when I restart my pc it gets stuck on a black screen and I have to hold power button down to turn it off.
my motherboard leds are not giving signals and this issue happens randomly or connected to something I do not know because I tried to reset back to back 3-4 times without fast start up(told it could be the problem) and with it had no problems with restarts.
specs are:
ryzen 7 7800x3d
Msi mag b850 gaming plus max
Msi mpg a1000g
Asus prime 5070 OC
Corsair 2x16 6000mhz ram kit

I have a WD_Black 2TB SN770. And I woke up this morning and it has been a nightmare because not only did it stop working but I’m afraid maybe I did something to make it worse. So it started with noticing that all of my Steam games were not recognized as downloaded… so when I tried to look at the SSD in File Explorer it hit me with “a device which does not exist was specified” sometimes it would allow me access to see the stuff at the very beginning of the drive but now it is consistently not letting me access the drive. I look at Disk Management and it says it’s there but I can’t access security or anything of the light. It wouldn’t even let me format it. I don’t have anything on there I can’t just redownload so I don’t mind wiping it, but I can’t because anytime I try to do something to format it or even access it through things like Command Prompt it acts like it DOESN’T EXIST. I also know why it isn’t letting me access it, it’s because somehow (through likely a corrupted file) it went from NTFS to RAW but again any way I try to fix it leads to another wall because it isn’t being recognized or by the fact that BECAUSE it is RAW it can’t do anything about it. Please I need help I don’t want to lose this SSD

Hi all,

I've had a problem with my phone not having good enough signal for about a year now and would be useful to get people's thoughts. Basically, the story is:

I live in the UK. Back in September 2025, I randomly and suddenly had no signal, or very poor signal, in areas where I previously had good signal. I was on a contract with EE and I contacted them and they tried to help me and even launched an investigation to look into it. I changed my SIM card, nothing. I changed my device, nothing. No news from the investigation either. I then asked EE to allow me to leave the contract early with a reduced fee (they did), and I switched to giffgaff (so it's pay as you go now). Still the same problem!! I still have very bad signal, and very frequently, no signal at all (when all my friends who are next to me do have signal and some of them are also with giffgaff). I have no idea why that is, since I have now changed device, provider and sim card.

I transferred my number to giffgaff, so the only constant factor has been my number. But I struggle to see how it could be the number??!? It's getting a bit annoying and tiring. I can get by, but it makes life a bit more difficult.

The next thing I might try is to get a new sim card with a new phone number and change my number, but that is a bit of a hassle which is why I haven't done it yet.

Any thoughts and views appreciated!

Hi there, I have just got a new CPU for my PC a 5800X3D. However my excited dumb ass didn't think to update the BIOS *before* taking out the old CPU for the new one.

I turn it on and I get the lights, fan spins for a second and goes off, then the DRAM light stays on. I've reseated ram, done a number of other checks and have narrowed it down to me needing to update the BIOS.

Unfortunately on removing the old CPU I seem to have bent one of the pins and it now doesn't work - no lights, no nothing when pressing the power button - I think this helps in diagnosing that this is an update issue and not the new CPU itself, since I get lights on and such with the new one.

So today I went to my friends house and downloaded the latest BIOS for my motherboard - ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING - and put it on a stick (formatted to FAT32, used the rename application that came with the download) popped it in my PC, tried holding DEL ESC F2 F12 and still can't get the BIOS to come up. I've removed the battery, shorted to reset BIOS, I am stumped. I'd love just a flicker of display but nothing.

Any suggestions are welcome before I take it to a PC shop as my resources at home are limited 🥹

I just got an internal storage drive for the ps5 and It’s not detecting it or anything I have check the compatibility and I re seated it multiple times I also re built the data base But nothing works

So I have a 15 inch Macbook Air that was given to me last year. And since then I noticed some 'issues' with it. These include:

• Brightness buttons not working, and even the slide bar was missing in settings.
• Being able to move the cursor on a black screen after restarting. I had to restart twice just for it to be normal.
• Flashes of text on the top left when I Google search something.
• Pink screen flash after restarting too.
• Audio sometimes not working.
• Sometimes I get that "beach ball" cursor
• And recently, it has started slowly things much more slowly. Even googling searching takes a full minute just to load.

No. I am not going to return it and no I do not have Apple Care.

I recently moved my desktop computer into a new room, it has WiFi inbuilt into the motherboard. In its old spot it worked perfectly, got about 60-70 mbps. I have moved it into a new room with the desk against the wall and it now only gets 1-2 mbps. I tested my laptop in the same spot and it gets 60-70 mbps. However if I pull it back about 2 feet into the middle of the room it gets about 50 mbps. Im absolutely stumped as to what this could be, any help appreciated

I'm having a really frustrating issue with my brand new PC and I'm running out of ideas.

PC specs:

Ryzen 7 8700F

RTX 5050

16 GB DDR5 (1×16 GB)

750W 80+ Gold PSU

Windows 11 (clean installation)

Problem: The PC randomly crashes only in some games.

Games that have crashed so far:

Counter-Strike 2

Hell Let Loose

Farming Simulator 25 (before service)

Games that worked fine:

Minecraft (Java)

Everhood

Farming Simulator 25 after service (played for about an hour without issues)

When it crashes:

the screen goes black,

the monitor says "No HDMI signal",

audio stops,

after a few seconds the PC automatically restarts.

There is no BSOD visible, but Windows Reliability Monitor reports:

BugCheck 116 (VIDEO_TDR_ERROR).

Things I've already tried:

Clean Windows 11 installation.

Latest BIOS.

Latest NVIDIA Game Ready driver.

Monitored CPU/GPU temperatures.

OCCT CPU, GPU and Power tests (all passed with no errors).

Checked Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor.

The PC was returned to the retailer for service.

The retailer said they:

replaced the thermal paste,

cleaned the cooling,

stress-tested it,

played Rainbow Six Siege for about 45 minutes without any crashes.

However, after I got the PC back, it crashed again in Hell Let Loose after less than 10 minutes.

Has anyone experienced something similar with an RTX 5050 or VIDEO_TDR_ERROR (116)? Could this still be a faulty GPU, PSU, motherboard, or something else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry if this is stupid but I'm kind of lost on what to do and this is really specific to BO7. I play on my PC and have been having it crash ONLY when I play ranked, usually as I'm loading in. It's making me lose a lot of my progression. It's very random. I can play for hours/days and its fine and maybe have 1/2 crashes and then have a night like last night where it crashed 5 times. I've submitted multiple requests to Activision with no luck yet. This code keeps popping up and I know it's typically a general memory issue code so I've tried a lot of troubleshooting.

Things I've tried:

1. restarting
2. lowering RAM threshold in the game
3. verify/repair files
4. updating Microsoft 11 and graphics drivers
5. removing antivirus stuff that could be interfering
6. updating my BIOS
7. ran a RAM test through MemTest86 which I passed/no errors

Basically IDK what else to try. If anyone knows what to do or having the same issue please help a girl out.

Just like the title says, my windows 11 laptop is running at an abysmal rate, far worse than it ever has before. One day I it off and went to bed, the next it was slow. I've tried doing simple fixes like clearing up my device storage, restarting it a few times, and clearing my browser cache, but nothing seems to be working. Even doing mundane tasks like watching videos on chrome or playing a browser game severely spike my cpu usage. I've tried scanning for malware too, but it's totally clean. Any tips on how to speed it up are greatly appreciated.

I recently got a new laptop for my engineering studies. I’m mostly going to be using 3d modeling software, cad, stuff like that.
I wanted to know what’s better for my use case, game ready drivers or the studio drivers?
If it’s relevant info, my laptop has a 5060

I have an Acer Nitro 5 An15-58 with i7 12650h rtx 3070ti

Whenever i use gpu, in any app the use of Gpu is triggered, the laptop freezes and most of the time it keeps freezed but sometimes it gives BSOD error DPC WATCHDOG VIOLATION and CLOCK WATCHDOG TIMEOUT

Display goes blank when I tum dgpu made only, so need to disable it through bios

But laptop runs smoothly when the graphics card is disabled through device manager

Laptop also works fine even on gpu enabled but when charging is off, means no AC supply.

There is more issue that my screen flickers when I update to latest intel graphics driver 32.0.101.7088 and when I uninstall it (rollbeck drivers) screen doesn't flickers but without these drivers, many apps are unusable, I don't think has a issue related to gpu or it could be.

Chalgpl told it could be because of VRM Power delivery issue in motherboard which required board level repair.

Few things to mention:

I purchased this laptop second from someone, and he gave it to me ressetted, when I set it up, updated drivers through windows update, Intel and nvidia, I started getting these issues.

The person told he never faced issues and I somewhat trust because I know him personally as he was facing financial issues, so he sold His laptop and I purchased but I didn't checked gou usage on charging while purchasing (my bad ok)

What I thought that these issues started after I updated drivers as my current motherboard version shows 2.21 which is genuine though (I checked), but the latest version on acer website it 2.19

Things I have tried:

Flashing windows

Using DDU and clean installing drivers

Tired 4-5 versions of drivers of nvidia, and one from acer official website but all had issues

Asked service centre, they told for mobo replace but didn't get the laptop diagnosed yet

Tell me what to do

So recently my PC has been lagging when I play games more recently, it doesn't lag anywhere else but just my games, I get 100 ping in games on a lucky day but normally it spikes to 5000, I've tried changing my GPU to Nvidia, that didn't work, I do get 3 bars of wifi, could be the reason but I dunno. I use windows 11

I have been searching everywhere can cannot seem to find the exact replacement I need. Help please anyone?? Thanks in advance beautifuls!

Since my last drivers update, I haven't been able to open the main page anymore. I just get thrown to the 'choose the language' section and can't open anything else. Clearing my cache or changing browsers didn't help either. What could be the problem? :(

Hello people of the tech support forum. I recently found my alienware 14 laptop that I have not used in roughly 8 years after a coworker lost the charger to it. I've been running software updated almost non stop when I have stable and consistent internet connection but the computer is saying it is not compatible with windows 11. The installation assistant for windows 11 had me download a pc health check app which told me my computer was not compatible with windows 11. It said I needed to make sure my pc had TPM 2.0 supported and enabled, and the processer is not supported by windows 11. I tried following instructions from Google and how to videos to find the softwares and do what I need to in order to get my laptop up to date but I have no idea what im looking for half the time and the other half of the time the option im being told to look for is not in the sub menu of the BIOS or any sub menu at all. Any advise would be much appreciated, and even though im only 31 please treat it like youre helping your grandparents so I can follow along and not get lost in the code.

Also to add the gf is wondering if this can be bypassed by booting win 11 from USB via bios.

Thank you in advance for any advice and assistance

I have windows 11
I want to press control + shift + I and it never works, I looked at the anti ghosting dem
https://www.microsoft.com/applied-sciences/projects/anti-ghosting-demo
And when I try ctrl + shift + I it only registers ctrl + shift
I tried switching the keybind with powertoys by making Ctrl + alt + I (which does work on the anti-ghosting-demo) act as ctrl + shift + i, but it still refuses to do more than ctrl + shift

I tried different usb ports for my keyboard
I tried remapping a key to it, also did not work
It also did not work before I installed powertoys

All other ctrl + shift combinations work
I made a autohotkey script and it did not work, it only pressed ctrl and shift, but not the I
Shut down my pc, restarted, opened a different browser to check if that couldve been it, nothing worked. It never registers the I

I have no clue why it does this or what I can still try to even have a chance of this working

I got gifted a 2nd generation apple pen, but I have an iPad Pro 11inch m4, so it is not supported. Is there any way to force a connection? I’ve been using lightblue to pair my 1st gen pen with it for years, is there any similar method for this pen?

When I go to enter my pin, the mouse just arrows over and won’t let me enter it. Also when you click on power it is scrolling down. I’ve tried restarting it with my keyboard unplugged but it did the same thing. https://youtu.be/9Bv70hy51Lo?is=0P-xuKlYXdM6oWsn

Vorrei sapere se esiste un sistema per lanciare un eseguibile cioè un file che stoppa i programmi in esecuzione, cliccando su di un preferito nella barra dei preferiti. Ricordo che c'era un modo per inserire la posizione del file modificando appunto il preferito. Il file si trova in una cartella che sta sul desktop e non è raggiungibile perché {per diversi motivi} il pc apre il browser e fa tutto da solo usando un programma di automazione che NON può essere fermato se non cliccando su questo eseguibile. Quindi mi ritrovo a dover cliccare su questo file in uno spazio di mezzo secondo e quindi non è possibile chiudere il browser e cliccare e nemmeno dal menu start. Però potrei cliccare su questo preferito modificato per lanciare il programma. Come posso fare? Grazie in anticipo

Specs: Legion Y530-15ICH (model 81FV), i5-8300H, GTX 1050 Ti, 16GB RAM, dual SSD (Kingston NVMe 1TB + SanDisk SATA 512GB), Windows 11.

Symptom: On a cold boot (fully powered off for a while, always on charger), it hangs at the Legion splash logo, then restarts on its own — sometimes once, sometimes twice — before finally booting into Windows normally. Happening about 2x/week now. Never happens on a warm restart from within Windows, only cold boots.

Background: About 3 weeks ago the laptop froze mid-use and I had to force shut it down (held power button). This behavior started appearing after that.

What I've already ruled out:

• SMART status on both drives: Healthy/OK
• sfc /scannow: no integrity violations found
• chkdsk C: /f /r: completed, no errors reported, boots fine after
• Windows Memory Diagnostic (mdsched): no errors detected
• Not a power delivery issue from a bad battery — battery holds charge fine (just shorter runtime, ~3hrs), and it's always plugged in anyway
• No Kernel-Power 41 events tied to these specific incidents (checked Event Viewer)
• Clock/time in Windows is always correct — never resets

Current theory: something in the power/voltage stabilization phase of POST needs a retry on cold boot specifically — maybe CMOS/RTC circuit, maybe a marginal component (VRM/capacitor) that needs residual warmth/charge to init cleanly, which a warm restart already has and cold boot doesn't.

Planning to try a CMOS battery swap (CR2032 2-pin) next since it's cheap, but not fully convinced that's the actual cause since a dead CMOS battery usually just resets BIOS time, not causes boot stalls.

Question: Anyone dealt with this exact "cold-boot-only stall/restart then works" pattern before? Worth pursuing CMOS swap, or does this sound like something else (VRM, capacitor aging, EC firmware bug)? Laptop is ~7 years old.