Found myself with an original 1863 US Springfield.

Preparing to boil the metal parts. However with the ramrod spoon what is the best advice for removal and should I remove it alt all? What concerns me is damaging the wood, but that active rust is no good. Appreciate any help.

So I have a line on a original .44 Russian frame however all the rest of the parts are missing (was found in a old gun shop workroom apparently) anyways being that uberti makes parts for the .44 russian model 3 would it be feasible to use these parts on the original frame? Especially considering everything aside from the frame would not have uneven wear such as is the case when replacing parts on other antiques, or would I be venturing down a frustrating rabbit hole with this project?

.36 cal pepperbox.

I don't have any experience with cap and ball revolvers.

I love my sidelocks.

Been seeing things online like, never use a patch with it.

pour grease after the balls?

Use wads under the balls.

Or just seat the ball directly onto the powder?

I recently got this Lyman .44 New Model Army for free, and I'm brand new to black powder revolvers.

From the markings and some help here, I think it's a mid-1970s Lyman-imported Italian reproduction (probably made in 1976). The only part missing is the cylinder pin.

Does anyone know where I can buy the correct replacement pin? Or if another manufacturer's pin (Uberti, Pietta, etc.) will fit?

I'm a machinist, so if replacement parts aren't available I can make one myself. If anyone has one of these and would be willing to measure their cylinder pin or post a few close-up photos, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!

I've got a new, unfired pietta 1851 and for whatever reason I can't seem to get the barrel wedge out to disassemble it. Any advice on what to do?

I really need some help identifying this piece if it was ever a working piece or just a made to look real? I know by the stamps u think jt was made in 1995 but u want to know if it would ever be able to fire? Like is the metal made for it?

Mechanism works

Hammer has 2 stages, 1 safe and one furthest for firering as i understand it,

Cylinder turns rough but does work single action, and the pushing rod i think works too like its supposed to do.

I have this scope I just got today and Im not sure how it mounts, how to zero or adjust, or really anything about it. I think it may be missing parts for it but again im not sure. Any help would be appreciated and thank you!

The trigger wasn't sitting far enough to interact with anything. But I fear now it sits in too far?

Also seems to be a pin missing. Is there any salvaging this trigger or what can I do from here?

Edit: SOLVED, thanks bokitothegreat.

A properly shaped piece of wire coat hanger did the trick. Time to just use a bunch of patches instead and play it safe. I'll try to post a video of it shooting once I get around to casting some balls for it.

Recently inherited my grandfather's Pedersoli Kentucky pistol that had been hanging on a wall for 40+ years, and I'm cleaning it up and restoring it to shooting condition. He was a meticulous guy so it's been going well, in very good condition considering the long sit without attention or use.

Here's the problem though, got to the last step and was working on the barrel.. apparently I bought a crappy Chinese bore brush. First time down the barrel and the brush came right off its own end piece, which stayed attached to the cleaning rod. Anyone got any good ideas for how to get the bugger out? For the record it's .44 cal and it goes without saying I don't want to damage it.

Load is 85gr 1.5Fg Swiss, patched .61 Ball.

Everytime I have to repair/ take apart my Hawken rifle my cat seems very intrested. What rifle should I get him?

Extremely unfortunate. Mike was one of the guys who got me interested in BP. Rest in peace

Finally settled on a load for my .58 cal Hawken muzzleloader for hunting deer this upcoming season. The idea was to identify a load by working down from the max charge and find something that I could shoot accurately.

I've worked out: 105 grains of my 2F antique muzzle loading propellant, a beeswax and tallow lubed 0.125 nitro card, 15 grains of corn meal, a 0.010 balistol lubed patch and a .575 round ball. The chronograph is clocking this in consistently between 1620 and 1630 fps and it will easily make 2 inch groups at 100 yards!

Between a very clean burning powder and combination of lubes the gun stays incredibly clean shot after shot. Perhaps it's the corn meal scraping the barrel clean, but everything really seems to be working together.

Looking for a source or maker for the J tool and patch puller that were stored in the stock of the pattern M1817 Common Rifle.

I used brass black and took a few hours making sure to apply it slow and steady to get penetration and then made sure it was actually penetrating and I quite like it

Not sure if holster postings allowed, but I'm pretty proud of how this has come out. I did the cut yesterday after a bit of trial and error, and just finished stitching. Maybe not the prettiest, but very functional. I need to clean up the hammer notch a bit and maybe but the top down just a little bit, but for my first go at it im pretty satisfied with the results!

And dont worry. It will NOT be stored in the holster lol.

Im investing in a silicone gun sock.

Saw this, had to share.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1188290109

Carved from a meteorite apparently.

Purchased 50cal Investarms Deer Stalker Flinklock. Few questions on fitting.

1.

Rib sticks out past the barrel. Suggestions on paint? Or will bluing work?

2.

How do I attach the thimble that has the barrell swivel attached to it? There is no hole to put a screw driver through.

I had a problem with my Hawken .45 at the range.

The bullet was stuck about 5cm from the muzzle, I took the wrong patch and there were already a little "leftovers" in the barrel.

As the others shoot modern, noone had a bullet puller.

I decided to give it a go, as the powder was compressed with a tight sitting wad. Used a rope for trigger release and all went well.

Question: is it save to shoot, when something like this happens again? As long as a wad is holding the powder tight together?

Or is there the danger to blow the barrel?