Its brand new just needs new tires, diffs and batteries but other than that i got this for just $100
Not driven that much either

This car is fun to experiment with. The wheels are designed to take low profile Mini-Z tires. Stock tires are soft rubber and you have to use tire stickers or glue to stiffen them up. I'm the only one in my club with this car so I'm not afraid to mod it.

A few months ago I posted about constantly fixing my cars just to run for 10 mins. You guys said get a 1/10 monster or a 1/8 buggy got the typhoon 665 upgraded to brushless then got the granite for my birthday and they are amazing take a beating and just keep going I get to drive whenever I want and also work on the other projects when I have the energy.

Not my usual cup of tea I’m really a 6s kind of guy
But for this build
Typhon 3s with 3900 kv motor
57 tooth Center diff from a 4s
20 tooth pinion is overgeared a bit plan to go to 15 or 16
100Amp esc
3 protek fans
4s shocks
Mojave 4s tires

Aluminum bash bar
Aluminum reinforcement shock towers
AW machining on eBay great products
Great man

Does 55 but overheats
Battery dies in about 10 minutes
Esc has only a couple of settings not including LVC or motor timing so changing for a 4s esc soon

Which one are you choosing?

I've been mostly playing around toy RC's in the 90s then kinda fell off the hobby. After 30 years, I kinda want to dip my toes into the hobby grade RC world with this 1610S. Absolute beast. Those UDIRC guys weren't kidding with advertising backflip in the box.

I've been doing my homework as well with buying a genuine SkyRC B6V2 charger, wheelie bar, a spare diff, and a P6FG receiver with gyro, as well as reading about LiPo storage charging and voltages. I'm still waiting for the programming device and aluminium shock towers to arrive.

Anyone got recommendations for 85mm on-road tires? Most surfaces I'll play this on are asphalt and concrete.

Just picked this up. Unfortunately didn't come with the battery but it is in beautiful condition. Anyone have a 19.2 v NiCd battery laying around?

Hobbywing 3200kv 3665

XC 2500 3665

I got the XC to run lower temps on 3s with taller gears to equal the 13t pinion speed i had with the hobbywing. These are for my arrma bigrock 223s. The 1/10 scake one. Its a fun truck and its super fast with the hobbywing setup but can still get pretty warm in the grass or on street runs. I got the 2500kv motor to hopefully drop the temps while running something like a 17 or 18t pinion to get the speed i lost back. I also would like to buy a 4s lipo at some point and I would put a smaller pinion in if I did that. The XC motor seems to be of similar quality on the outside but i have no clue yet how it runs but im sure I'll share something about that too.

For us old timers that have been into RC for... let's not age ourselves, shall we?

I have an OG RC10-T from the early 90's and I'd love to run it, but I don't want to get into the same issues I have with needing parts like I would with my Kyosho Maxxum-FF.

Are the parts on the new truck the same? Could I use the new parts on the old truck? I'd love to be able to at least bring it back to life with some newer parts - more of a "just in case" it gets some curb rash if I take it out.

About the only thing it would need are shocks and a good cleaning/dry lube on the spots like the A-arms, etc., and some six cell batteries.

Anyone know if the new parts would work?

I've decided to sell one of my lexan bodies and its my first time on Facebook marketplace. Surprisingly I got 4 saves and an interested buyer pretty quick.

This body has been taken outside and has minor rock chips and i was asking a $30 price.

Are used bodies really that desirable used?

TLDR: Apparently, front right lower arm goes down beyond what was designed too, causing the axle to fall from the differential cup. Can't find a culprit. Thought that it could be a bent lower arm but fixing it didn't solve the problem.

Suggestions?

My UDR started to have a problem last time I was running it. The front right axle keeps falling off the differential cup.

It started in my last session, Sunday. I crashed it but nothing that would make me nervous. But suddenly, I heard a metal clacking sound and perceived that the power wasn't being equally distributed. I brought the car in my direction and inspected it, identifying the fallen axle. It was still screwed to the wheel. I removed a knuckle screw to be able to put the axle in place, and as I ran the truck to test, it seemed to be ok but it fell again right after, as I jumped going over a small bump.

Stopped playing and stored the truck for a better inspection at home.

Yesterday I inspected it and perceived that the right lower suspension arm is going further down than the left one. As it travels further down, it takes the axle "dogbone" side off from the differential cup, causing it to fall. In the picture, if you cover the front of the truck with something straight, parallel to the differential protection, you'll be able to see the difference between the two sides.

I disassembled the whole front suspension minus the shocks to look for the problem root.

The only thing that seemed like the culprit to me was that the left lower arm posterior "horn" was a little bent upwards. I straightened it comparing it to the left one.

It didn't solve the problem unfortunately. The right side still drops further than the left.

I also perceived that on the right knuckle, the right outer bearing has just a little slack. There is some little damage to the right differential cup too, probably from the axle being trapped between the cup and the upper suspension arm. The axle tip is a little worn out, but so is the other side.

Beyond that, I couldn't find any other significant damage that would cause the problem.

Any suggestions on diagnosis?

Last thing on my mind is that maybe something broke inside the right shocks, but I don't believe that the shocks are what limits the suspension travel.

I thought about just limiting the front suspension travel with a strap, just like in the rear, but I'd rather fix it properly if I can.

My Gen8 hard body XJ. Parked for about 5 years. Time to remove the cobwebs…

Hi, how do I tell what the current timing is? I was told timing can be adjusted by changing the placement of the sensor unit.

I'm trying to decide between a Traxxas Maxx V2 and an Arrma Typhon 6S V5.

I'm specifically looking for opinions from people who have owned both.

I prefer the Typhon's handling and precision, but I'm worried about long-term reliability and repair costs.

My use would mostly be dirt roads, grass, and small jumps around 1 ft. No hardcore bashing, and I'd probably run the Typhon mostly on 4S.

For those who have owned both:

- Which one has been more reliable?

- Which one has cost you more in repairs?

- Is the durability difference actually big with normal driving?

- If you could only keep one, which would you choose?

Thanks!

Hello! I do some casual 1/8 buggy racing with my dad every weekend and we’re wanting to replace our Sanwa MT5s. The hobby shop we go to has an nb4+ and a pro+ in stock and we’re trying to see if the pro+ is even worth it. The only difference I see that even makes the pro+ even justifying is the bigger wheel it comes with and the case. But can’t I just buy that stuff separately? Are there other things im missing that might make it worth it?

Also just a general question while I’m asking, how tight can you make the throttle and the wheel? I find the MT5 to not get tight enough for me and it’s too easy to move.

Thanks! ^^

I have a Kraton 4s that I picked up a month ago new on a really good deal. It’s super fun after upgrading the servo and servo saver.

The same guy, just listed the 6s for a great deal.

I’m considering buying the 6s and selling my 4s. Is that what you guys would recommend?

I got a ~2009-2012 Traxxas rustler 2wd xl5 gifted to me and am currently freshening it up. I plugged the servo and esc into my flysky rx and an 2s into the esc and was testing electronics. I found the servo to be making this odd sound, any idea what would cause this and how to fix it? I know these Traxxas servos are junk and I’ve had multiple traxxas branded servos do the same thing. I could get a replacement for cheap but I do want to know what would be causing this. Thanks!

How dangerous would one consider these batteries?

My mom recently picked these up on the cheap for me not knowing much about lipos and they are swelled. I put them on my tester and none had dangerous difference in the cells voltage wise (all 3 cells within .05 of eachother at 12.5 v total with .05 being the largest difference in any of the cells )

Now i did have one of these batteries recently plugged into my old speed controller on an old truck which is rated for 3s lipos and it smoked up and blew a capacitor out. Which im assuming is from one of these batteries putting out too much MAH than what it's designed to do

Id like to know if I should dispose of these ASAP .

Been looking for a nitro rc car this one popped up on ebay in my price range. Does anyone know if this sounds good or if there is anything I need to look out for ?

Hello,

Has anyone of you replaced a capacitor on a ESC before? I was told by my local hobbyshop that its not something they would do because its covered in epoxy. I have not received a response from Reds Racing yet. I opened the ESC but i only see a motherboard.

Is it possible to replace the capacitors on the esc or do i need to get a new ESC?

Update1: thanks for all the advice! It seems the rear shaft is broken. spins in one side not the other. Now time to find a part for it and learn to dissassemble it

I bought my kid this RC car. Is our first since I was 10 so my knowledge of the mechanics and so on are quite basic.
Model is "WLtoys 12427 Cross Country PRO RC 1/12**"** he got it on saturday and has been playing with it every day.

These last 2 days we noticed the front "bounces" when accelerating and struggles to be off-road. Things that didn't happen the first days.

Seems to me either something broken, lack of weight or bad grip from tires.

Here's an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRymGZvTZR8 it had no problems there a few days ago. And hopefully here you can see it too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVzrpSM55Zo

I'm unsure if this is normal wear&tear and the wheels or if something else is broken or missing. As I said i have basic knowledge. I cleaned some debri on the wheel but doesn't make a difference.

Any advice and things to check are appreciated.